When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am having the following codes and am unsure at this point what my next course of action might be. Any help would be greatly appreciated. (2005 X-Type 3.0; 200,900 miles)
P0171 MIL
P0171 PEND
P0174 PEND
P1000 PEND
I recently changed all the plugs (gapped them to .052), all the coils, the upper intake gaskets, the fuel filter, the air filter, the cabin filter, the vacuum hose (that hooks to the back of the intake manifold). I plan on going back and checking all the connections for the hoses, but after that what would be recommended? Thanks in advance.Tim
Those codes are usually associated with a vacuum leak. The next logical places to check would be the IMT O-Rings and the brak booster check valve hose. Also double check the accordian hose from the MAF to the throttle body to make sure there are no leaks there.
Those codes are usually associated with a vacuum leak. The next logical places to check would be the IMT O-Rings and the brak booster check valve hose. Also double check the accordian hose from the MAF to the throttle body to make sure there are no leaks there.
Well I went through and checked all the hoses (all were good, no cracks or holes), I replaced the IMT O-rings, re-cleaned the MAF. After almost two weeks of driving, no codes and she ran like a champ.......... until today. She was struggling to start and the check engine light came on. It would turn over, but just wouldn't fire up right away. Once I got her started she would drive fine- no hesitation or lagging, etc, but the check engine light stayed on. So I checked the codes:
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" MIL
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" PEND
P1000
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/20...on_sensor.html
They go by left and right which is a bit confusing to X owners with the transverse engine. To us it's front and rear. Both sensors are the same. Replacement is pretty straightforward, remove bolt, disconnect harness, remove/replace, reverse disassembly. Had one guy just a couple of weeks ago that switched them to see if the problem (different) he was having followed the switch (it didn't).
dell...he needs a crankshaft sensor... that guy who swapped em over swapped camshaft sensors, theres only 1 crankshaft sensor which from what i remember is quite accessible, even more so with the lower wheel arch cover and wheel removed (U.S passenger side)
iownme- I woke up cranky also......must be an x-type thing
If the car is jacked up, is it necessary to remove the wheel and the lower arch cover? Or can it be done without removing them? I have not crawled under there yet to look.
Last edited by Silver Panthera; Oct 10, 2018 at 07:45 AM.
i just went and looked and i think at the very least the wheel has to come off....there is an opening in the wheel arch which may or may not allow you to get a wrench in there, either way, the cover comes off in about 30 seconds.
i dont think you can do it from under the car, though it may be possible to snake a thin arm up there and do it by feel
Kinda boring video and showing a 2 wire sensor (see above for the 3 wire ground/power) testing for wiring, signal and sensor failure. If wiring tests out, then it is the sensor. He spends time on the 340 (camshaft sensor) code but also shows how to test for the 335 crankshaft sensor code (again if wiring tests good it's the sensor).
Trouble Codes
