Hello Gang,

02 X-Type 3.0 Sport, 150,000 miles. Sorry for the long post ahead. Just trying to give a back ground of whats happening and what I’ve done so far.

Last week coming home after an about an hour driving on the interstate 75-85 mph the car started “bucking”. It appeared like the fuel was not getting to the engine or for lack of a better description, there was an ABS system on the fuel line pulsating the fuel…

First thought was I got a bad tank of gas that morning when I fueled up for a long drive that day. Drove about two hours to get to my destination without issue. It was an hour into coming home it started. Thought maybe the fuel filter was clogged or the gas was bad in some way. I also recalled how our cars do really goofy things when the battery gets old and may not have the correct voltage so I stopped at an auto parts store and they tested the battery and said it was good. I ordered a new fuel filter which would be in the next day. I was able to limp home with the bucking for the night.

Next morning on the way to work filled up from a different station with a full tank of premium. I was about on empty by then so I hoped if it was bad gas, I would have used it up and the fresh gas would resolve the problem. Drove to work, an hour away and about 36 miles mostly at highway speeds, 55-60mph. No issues at all.

Left that afternoon to go home and got about ¾ of the way home and it started again. Limped home and got on this forum to do some searching. Read lots of threads and posts about vacuum issues and that seemed reasonable so I did some checking under the hood. I had already replaced the main breather hose a few years ago but it wasn’t the ribbed one. I didn’t see anything obvious so I ordered the most likely parts from ebay. Ribbed hose, IMT valve O rings, and check valve with the hoses.

While these parts were on order I read on here to smoke check for leaks. At work we use a smoke test kit from Grainger to check air pressures on different rooms and this stuff is great for creating a big thick white smoke to test with. As I went around the various areas it was immediately obvious that the smoke was being sucked in on the top of the engine where the two smaller vacuum hoses enter the top of the engine at the plastic bushing. In further reading about those failing and falling apart I found a post that gave the part number for those and I have ordered two of them from eBay too. They have not come in yet but as a temporary fix I figured that I just needed to seal the gap around the vacuum line entrance and I decided to use some Permetex gasket maker sealant. I applied it around both fitting and left it to dry over night. Next morning it was dry and I started the car and smoke tested it again, no leaks.

Drove to work with no issues. Left that after noon to come home and at ¾ of the way home, started bucking again. Pulled over and smoke tested the fittings. No leaks??? Limped home but this time as it started bucking, I put the car in neutral and coasted while I shut off the engine for several seconds then restarted and put back in drive and was able to go for 7-10 minutes before it started again. So I repeated the process again and was able to drive all the way home as I was very near.

So now I am confused and frustrated as I thought I had found a “smoking gun” on the fittings when they were clearly leaking a lot. But after sealing them, I still have the same issue.

What I don’t understand is if this is a vacuum leak:
• Why doesn’t it happen soon after starting the car?
• Why doesn’t it happen as soon as the car gets to normal operating temperatures. Definitely within 5 minutes?
• Why no issues ever in the mornings but issues every night coming home? Only difference I can see is the ambient temperature is 20* hotter in the afternoons. I’m in Florida.
• Why am I driving almost 30 miles and or ¾ of an hour before it starts, but only in the afternoons?

I’m also wondering if this is some kind of computer board that is heating up (more so in the hot afternoons then cooler earl mornings) and sending faulty readings to control the fuel trim??? But oddly when shutting off the car and restarting it goes away for 7-10 minutes before coming back???

Parts replaced and or checked.
• Battery tested good at auto parts store. Surprised me as I thought they’d have sold me a new battery!
• PCV valve can shake and rattle. Believe that to be good.
• Main breather hose replaced with new ribbed hose. Old one not split.
• IMT O Rings replaced. Older ones looked bran new too. They were the same green ones and very pliable. Also smoke test didn’t find any leaks to begin with.
• Fuel filter purchased but not replaced yet. If this was the failure it would be all the time. Car runs too good in the morning to have a filter failure. Will replace this weekend just to check the box off though.
• Check valve vacuum line replaced with new.
• Connector inserts on order and will install when they come in but vacuum lines are sealed and smoke check confirms no leads there.
• At the 100k mark, maybe 5 years ago I replaced the spark plugs and coils. I also replaced the manifold gasket.
• I replaced one of the O2 sensors 3-4 years ago too. Drivers side toward front of engine.
Also read on here someone replaced the gas cap. Seems to me if it was a gas cap pressure issue, that would manifest itself fairly quickly and regularly. I'm will to order a new one though if I think it would help.

I also am not throwing any codes. The check engine light does not come on. Only once did the yellow light with the “cruise not available” light come on but as soon as I restarted the car, it went away. My OBD2 scanner shows nothing to read?

I’m frustrated my kitty is not running nicely. What am I missing gang?

 

Drive it with your OBD reader constantly connected. See if when the problem manifests, the fuel pressure drops, fuel trims go haywire, etc.

 

I was thinking of that too a few hours ago. I have a second blue tooth one that also has an app on my phone. I'm going to try that and see if I can get some answers. I just have to find the thing first.

Thank you.

 

I purchased another OBD2 Bluetooth scanner as I couldn't find my other one. I hooked it up and using the DashCmd app on my iPhone, I took a screenshot of the Short Term Fuel Trim. At the time of this, the car was operating normally and I was trying to get a feel for the numbers as kind of a baseline for my ride home this evening which is when the problems occur. I have no idea what Short Term Fuel Trim is or what it's supposed to do. I started Googling it to understand what it means. All the way to work this morning it was reading in the negative numbers except when I took my foot off the gas to apply the brakes and stop. It would then go to 0.0. I'm still not sure what is normal or abnormal; is it supposed to be in the negative all the time? I'm hoping that the fine folks on here can assist my Google searching for answers to interpret the data the scanner is reading.

Questions:

1. Is there a different reading I should be focusing on?
2. Is there a different/better app I should be using instead?

Thank you.

 

I'd watch fuel pressure. It could be your pump is on it's way out (intermittent).

Fuel trims explanation, read entire thread and attachments =

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...ed-quiz-49317/

 

Thanks for posting that, Dell. Great little article making it all a lot clearer.

 

Update

I bought another Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner as I couldn’t find my original one, of course. I paired it with the DashCmd app on my iPad.

In referencing the following gauges I came up with these conclusions.

I monitored my Short Term Fuel Trim (SHFT) and Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT). I also monitored the Air Intake Temperature and the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR).

In reading the link to the post Dell mentioned I learned a lot about the fuel trims and what they are doing. I also read a post by someone mentioning the oil from a K&N filter fouling their Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF). That got me thinking as I have a K&N filter and admittedly probably go overboard on the amount of oil I spray on it. I also found in Googling a good article that explained what the MAF and Air Intake Probe do to measure the air temperature and how that info is interpreted by the engine’s PCM and what it does to the fuel trim levels making them more lean or rich. Click ---> here.

I liked these parts in the article as they tend to validate what I'm thinking.





With the above info I was able to deduce that going to work isn’t an issue as the temperature is cooler which I suspected. Going home it is 20* hotter and there is lots of stop and go traffic I have to contend with which also adds to the heat of the engine.

What I am seeing is when the Air Intake Temperature (AIT) gets hot, 140*+ I notice that my STFT goes to +25% which causes my AFR to jump up to 18.1:1 or more. This causes the car to be too lean and starved for fuel. That’s when my bucking starts. AS the AIT temp goes down, the AFR returns to 15.1:1 or a little under making it more Rich and the bucking goes away. Also at that time, the STFT goes less positive and when it is +20% or less the bucking stops.

All of this leads me to believe that my MAF sensor is bad. I removed it and sprayed it with MAF cleaner but in the end I decided to just buy a new one from O’Reilly’s Auto for $90 and just replace it.

As I stated above in the original thread that when the car started bucking and I put it in neutral and then turn the car off, then restarted it and put it in drive and I was able to continue driving normally for several more minutes. What I found it the electric signal must be getting turned off since the car is off and when that happens the PCM forgets the STFT is at +25% and it goes back to 0 and the AIT also goes back to a much cooler temperature. With the computer thinking things are back in normal range again, the AFR goes back to normal and you have no bucking and full throttle.

Hopefully all that I just typed above is actually correct and my logic is sound. If not I goofed and someone can correct me so I get it right.

The part comes this Friday to my house so I will install after work and hope that solves my problems.

I'll post another update after the install.

Anyone have any thought on this they can share?

 

Update.

Got the MAF Sensor in today and installed. Allowed car to run idle for 30-40 minutes in the driveway to really heat up.

Went on test drive and although the Intake Air Temperture did get up to 155*, causing the STFT to go to +20.1% and the AFR went up to 17.1:1, I had no adverse affects.

I really think the MAF sensor was the issue and I'll find out for sure tomorrow as I have a two hour trip I have to make.

I also replaced the fuel filter today too, but I seriously doubt that had anything to do with the bucking issue for the reasons stated in the above posts.

Dell, I found on the app the gauge for fuel pressure as you mentioned to watch this as you think the fuel pump may be going out. I will be monitoring this as well over the next few weeks and see what that data shows. So far, for today, it was between 55-60 PSI. Thank you for that tip.

I'll make another update after tomorrow's trip and report back how that car ran.

Thank you.

 

Update

it was not the MAF sensor. Although the initial test drives were great and I thought I got it, I didn’t.

In watching the fuel pressure as Dell suggested I do see that it is dropping to 15-17 PSI. I also see the SHFT go to +25% and the AFR goes to 18.3:1. Which again puts the car too lean and I have no acceleration and the engine bucks.

So so next weekend I need to look into a new fuel pump.

More to follow.

 

Sounds like it's failing. Look up my thread "my kitty died today" for a comprehensive discussion and fix with pics on replacing.

You changed the fuel filter?

 

I’ll read over your thread this week. Out of town right now.

Yes I did replace the fuel fuel filter and I made sure the in/out was in the correct orientation.

Thank you,

 

Total length to door rail for hole

7" from left to right


16" from back seat edge to front edge


9" from back seat edge to back side of hole

Overall

Right side is the drivers side leg. Top of the pic is the back of the car. Bottom is the front of the car

O ring from E bay.
Update:

So I finally got the car completed. Took a while as I was out of town and then had to wait for a new fuel pump, fuel pump wrench and O ring.

I decided to do the cut the hole in the floor board of the rear seat to access the top of the pump to remove. No way to remove the fuel tank out the bottom to do this the correct way.

In watching the UK video a few times I was able to learn a lot on the size of the hole and to avoid cutting along the drivers side leg of the "box" front to back. That was the leg I left uncut and used that as a hinge to pry the metal back wearing leather welding gloves. I did this because the electrical and fuel line go perpendicular to the leg of the box and I didn’t want to risk cutting anything.

I bought an air nibbled from Harbor Freight for $30.00 bucks. This worked great when I could get it started but I mostly had to use hand snips for the multiple layer material on the passenger side and some of the uneven material. Couldn’t get the nibbler to cooperate for two out of the three legs. But the one leg it did, it cut like a mad man. Great tool once you get it started.

The hole was about 7" x 5". I started along the passenger front side about two inches away from the seat plastic insert and parallel with that edge from passenger side to drivers side for the 7" part. I drilled a ½” hole to get it started. This has the deepest part between the metal and the top of the fuel tank so I wanted to start there. Then coming back from the passenger front part straight back to the rear of the car for the 5" part. Then across again for 7" from passenger to driver side to complete the 3 legs of the box. This left the front driver to rear driver leg intact as the fuel and electrical lines go under this leg and I didn’t want to risk cutting anything important. Then donning leather gloves I pried back that part to access the fuel pump.

I tried the block of wood and hammer trick first with no success at all. I actually started to break one of the plastic tabs so I stopped and ordered the wrench from Amazon.

While waiting for the wrench I ordered the fuel pump "O" ring so I could put a new one in and not reuse the original form 02.

Using the wrench which is in my opinion is absolutely necessary for the amount of tightness the ring was on there. No way would I have gotten that off without it or without mangling the ring. I had to push down hard with my left hand while turning a foot long breaker bar with my right and when that didn't do it I had to put my knee into it to get it to move. It was on there amazingly tight!. Anyone doing this job, buy the wrench for $20.00 bucks and save yourself massive headaches and probably massive cuts (the sheet metal is razor sharp after cutting it) trying to get the ring off in one piece.

The new fuel pump has the hosed on it that go over to the sending unit and are not needed unless your replacing that too. So far that has not been necessary so I pulled the return hose out that just dumps back into the pump and slit the side of the other hose on the fitting and pulled it off with a pair of pliers.

Note: before removing the old fuel pump ring and fuel pump, take note of the position of your gas gauge amount so that after you change it out it should read the same level for fuel. the UK guy's didn't and he had to change the arms. Noting the fuel level will help you make sure the new one is reading right.

With the ring unscrewed, the pump comes up with a few twist and turns and manipulation. There is the green O ring and a split metal ring that went "somewhere" and did "something"? More questions on that later. I cut a slit in the existing hose and pulled it off.

I put the new fuel arm for lack of a better term on the new fuel pump. Slipped a stainless steel plumbing band clamp over the slit hose and put them on the new pump tightening the clamp down to secure the cut hose end. Then twisted and turned and got the new pump in. Take not of the position of the arrow on the top of the pump. It should be about 5 o’clockish. I put the new O ring around the top of the pump which was a real bi*ch to get in place and keep it there and push down hard on the top and get the ring started. I also had no idea where the stainless steel split ring that came off the old pump when on the new pump or what it's purpose was, so it's in my tool box till I figure out if it's vitally necessary and how it goes on?

With the pump in place and the fuel and electrical lines hooked back up it started the care and could feel the fuel going through the line. With my OBD2 scanner in place and the app on my iPad, i had a Fuel Rail Pressure reading of 55psi. Test drive went well and fuel pressure remained constant around 55 psi.

I have taken it to work for the last two days now and it drives great except for three occasions in the am when sitting at a traffic light the CEL comes on, and I get the amber light with "cruise not available" message. Run a scan and I'm getting a code of PO171 System Too Lean Bank 1. Odd thing is in watching the fuel air ratio, it never got very lean in my opinion to throw the code. This is going by the constant fuel air ratio going up to 18.3:1 when the fuel pump was malfunctioning and I was getting 15-17 PSI, the car got starved for fuel and went very lean but didn't through a CEL or a code?

I'm going to do some more research on here for that code and if I recall correctly that is an O2 sensor that is failing.

I bent the metal door back in place and covered with AC foil tape. I haven’t put the back seat in yet as I am making sure I don’t have to go back in there. Seat is a bit of a pain and not sure what to do with the metal split ring?

So my question is, what is the metal split ring do? Where does it go and how do you put it on with the O ring? Is it vitally important for the fuel pump or seal of the ring to the pump body? What happens if I leave it off?

I hope this helps someone else in this situation. It was a bit of a pain to do but well worth not spending what a garage would charge to drop the tank and do it? That would probably cost more then the car.


Delivered Oct 18, 2019
Package was left inside the residence’s mailbox


Sold by:

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Return eligible through Nov 17, 2019
$19.95

 

You should have read my recommended thread "my kitty died today". Everything you posted is there and more. The p0171 is 99% of the time a vacuum leak on one (or more) of the "big three". In my case it is the only case I've heard of that verifying there were no vacuum leaks ANYWHERE, I replaced my MAF and it never returned.

 

Delll,

I did read through your post "my kitty died today" and thought it was very well written and provided a lot of info for me to use.

I reiterated a lot of what you said and did as I did mostly the same things too with success. No harm in multiple people stating the same info as that tends to validate the info for others when multiple people are doing it the same way with success.

As for the "big three". I replaced those items in my post #1 when I started this process which is why I'm scratching my head as to throwing the code now. Oddly before the fuel pump change, I threw that code one time with all the problems of the engine going lean when the fuel pressure dropped off? So this is odd to me.

I too replaced the MAF with a new one thinking that was my problem. That is posted above too in post #8.

dwclapp from your post "my kitty died today" post #44, was the only one I saw make mention of the stainless steel split ring that came off my original pump. Unfortunately I have no idea exactly how to put it back and so I left it off. Nice to know not all the cars have them so perhaps its not that critical?

I guess this weekend I'll start going through all the vacuum stuff again ad n start over..

Thank you,

 

Update:

Since I'm continuing to get CEL codes of bank 1 & 2 too lean, today I decided to replace my upper and lower manifold gaskets as this is the last vacuum component I know of I havn't changed yet. Also went ahead and did my spark plugs and coils. I changed the plugs and coils 50k ago but figured while I had it all tore apart and hoping to never have to do this again, I went ahead and changed them out. I was not happy to see that the (facing the engine looking towards the back of the car) left rear and right rear had what looked like oil in the spark plugs. The center rear was ok. Also the left front had oil too the other front two were ok. Not sure what that means but imagine it can't be too good.

The gaskets seemed pretty old but not cracked that I could see. They were the originals. I cleaned the surface with brake parts cleaner and got the 17 years of curd off the surfaces.

Put it all back together and got a bunch of engine codes.

• DCS Fault
• Engine System Faults
• Gearbox Fault

Decided to call it a night after that. Tomorrow is another day and tonight I have a lot of searching this forum to do. Not to mention finding the two wrenches that fell somewhere down there........

Maybe tomorrow with fresh eyes I see I missed plugging something in and all will be right with the world again.

 

Oil = valve cover seal leaking ( & MAYBE boss seal(s)) =

post #14 =

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...k-plugs-18291/

 

Yes Sir. I discovered this thread a little bit ago on my reaseach of oil in the spark plugs. I order the valve kit and I also ordered a small deep socket mm set from amazon as I don't have an 8mm for that back nut but somehow managed to get it off and on before? I used a box wrench ratchet but what a pain...

Thank you. More to come when I get the parts and replace. Hopefully by next weekend. Updates to follow...

 

 

Update:

As the saga continues…

Today I replaced the valve cover gaskets and boss seals as I was getting oil leaking into three of the spark plug tubes as I found out a few weeks ago replacing the plugs and coils. Not a bad job if you go slow and take your time. Harvy_Birdman did a great job on his write up on replacing the gaskets so I won’t repeat. See this thread, click --->  here starting at post #14.

One thing I did was break off a vacuum/air tube, not sure of the correct name as I havn’t been able to find it to order one so I’m hoping someone can help me ID this with the name. It’s a hard (or maybe mines is just brittle after 17 years) plastic tube that goes from the top of the right hand valve cover to the air intake flex hose the small hole on the left. See pics.

More updates to follow once I replace this broken line and put the manifold back on. Hopefully all my problems will go away then.

Thanks,

 

Here are some pics of the valve covers, gaskets, and boss seals. Hope this helps someone else. Note, there is a difference in the valve gasket covers as one is for the left hand and the other is for the right hand. Not sure if the boss seals are different lengths but the first one I tried seemed to bee to long so I put on the other one and it fit correctly.