Help please, I have searched through old posts and still not solved this problem. I am getting a very bad vibration, but only at about 70mph and foot on the accelerator. It fades after releasing the go pedal. This just popped up, and I have never experienced it before. Car is a 2002, 3.0 manual.
Background: I replaced the engine last year and all was great. For two weeks, then It started knocking. Got my money back, but was very frustrated after the most extensive engine swap I have ever been a part of.
Found another engine and a friend to help, and completed the second engine swap (this one seems in great shape). Also installed some Eibach sport springs that I got a deal on from eBay while I had her apart. Get her all buttoned up, smooth and sounds great, until I get to 70ish and the shaking starts. Grrrrr.
What I have done: swapped wheels and tires. Same shake with summer and winter wheels.
Checked and re-torqued the front drive shaft bolts. Checked center bearing and rear driveshaft bolts, even though they were not touched in the engine swap. Shaft feels solid. Also checked if I tightened all suspension and all 3 motor mounts.
Checked front CV joints, right one had a little play, so took previous forum advice and replaced it. That HAD to be it, took her out and same damn thing.
So - I am leaning toward the left front CV shaft next, but being as replacing the one that seemed bad made no difference, I have stopped to reflect and ask for advice before proceeding.
So - what could this be? Did not happen on first swap or ever before.
Do I change the left front axle and pray it fixes it?
Do I (gasp) take it some place to have it looked at? And where?
Could putting the new springs on have done anything (maybe changed axle geometry slightly and it isn't used to or happy with it)?
Trying to stick to things that were touched in the swap, for obvious reasons. I can't see how something failed the exact same time I changed the engine - unless I damaged something or put it back wrong/out of alignment/torqued wrong.
The worst part is why now, after a perfect swap the first go-around (except the engine), and then doing it again!
I am at a loss. Help!

Greg

 

If it is worse up hill then it's likely a misfire - caused by a bad coil most likely.

 

Need to narrow it down to drive-train (engine, trans, transfer case) or suspension (control arms, bushings, ect) issue.

1. Can you feel the shaking through the steering wheel (like a flat front tire)?
2. Does the shaking go away above 70MPH?
3. Any change in RPM on the tachometer during the shaking (misfire or engine cutting out) which would likely trip a Check Engine Light? I doubt it.. but I had to ask.

 

Hello everyone, my name is Sean and I have an old Jaguar x type 3 ltr V6 2001. I am hoping to improve the headlights and was wondering if I can swop the old original bulbs for led's. How difficult is it? Any advice welcome.

 

@Sean, and how does that have anything to do with the thread title of vibration?

 

A good chance it is the drive shaft, mine did exactly the same. It was fine until it hit a certain speed and then felt like it was falling apart. If you jack it up and rotate the shafts you will see the inner joint bobbing up and down on the faulty shaft if the drive shaft is faulty.

 

Carrier bearing?

 

You'll feel a bad or failing carrier bearing throughout the car (read here not through steering wheel, etc.) particularly through the seat.

 

Thanks so much for the replies - I have been too busy to respond lately but can now. To answer the question asked:
It does NOT shake through the steering wheel.
The shaking does NOT go away after 70. After driving it more, it starts at 60ish, and gets progressively worse as the speed rises. Taking your foot off the gas smooths things out - it only shakes with the power on.
There is no rpm change, and no check engine light.

The only additional info, if related, is that it it is occasionally popping out of gear (this is a manual). It has never done that before either.
Some days it seems to be slightly better, but has never gone away and was not there before the engine swap.

Of it is the driveshaft, why would it go out exactly when I did this? Only the front was disconnected and it was supported when detached. Nothing feels loose, and the carrier bearing seems fine.
2 shops have suggested an alignment. All the suspension was "moved" due to the Eibach springs being installed. It kind of makes sense but not sure. Thoughts?
If I get an alignment, I will ask them to run the car while on the lift to 60 plus in 4th and 5th gear to see if something starts shaking.
Could be the left front driveshaft as well, since I have never changed that.

Thanks!
Greg

 

I would think that if it were an alignment issue you would typically be experiencing "pull" to the left or right, "twitchiness", or more "steering" related symptoms, though the car absolutely needs an alignment after the installation the Eibach's. As it should be aligned due to Eibachs you might as well have it done now. If that solves the problem; you're home free.

I didn't realize (or missed) that you have a manual trans X-Type (both of mine are autos), That popping out of gear should help a lot with diagnosing the shaking/vibration by our members. To me it sounds like they're very possibly related.

hopefully we can get to the bottom of this,


subbed and watching

 

If you are feeling brave and desperate, you could magic something up to mount a GoPro or your phone underneath your car temporarily. A good point is the bolt that holds the weight to the diff. Facing forward, you will see all along the propshaft.

 

Judging by the date of the original post I guess you have fixed this, but do yourself a favour and type into google "sports springs car shaking" and prepare to be wowed by just how many posts there are on the interweb of cars shaking on acceleration when sports springs are fitted. Put the OEM springs back is my advice. Good luck.

 

Thanks! This is NOT fixed yet, and I am slowly trying new things. I will do the google search immediately after this. I was also coming to the conclusion that the springs may be the issue. Bought them on eBay used, so maybe they sold them for the same reason?
Also, it is one of two things that changed since this started - the other being the engine swap. The car now looks a little better with the drop, but not a big deal. The higher speeds vibration aside, I can't tell if it drives any better than before, but am strongly leaning to actually worse. I LOVED the way it sailed smoothly on the highway before, but just wished I had a sport model. Since I was lead to believe the only suspension difference was springs, I went for it went I found them cheap.
I am going to swap the rear springs back first and see what happens. They are much easier to change than the front, the back kinda looks "off" when I really scrutinized it yesterday, and I did tje same thing years ago on an e36 M3, where no ended up with sport spring front, and stock in back.
I will try this "soon" and get back to you all.
Thanks again for the responses!

 

Gcfuller, I'm experiencing the same vibration on my X-Type Estate. Realignment and tyre calibration didn't fix the problem. It had nothing to do with it. Talked on the phone with my Jaguar guy and he suggested it may be a problem with the transmission. Local mechanic suggested the same. Have you solved the problem, so far?
Cheers!

 

If it is happening around 60-70 and smooth below that and the vibration doesn't feel like it is being transmitted through the steering wheel I would get your driveshafts checked.

 

Wolfjag, and others: I am still working on the vibration, as I have time to work on the car. Due to the excellent suggestion a few posts above, I believe my soutce of the shaking is the Eibach Sport/lowering springs I installed while replacing the engine, but I have yet to fully confirm this. It is the only other thing that "changed" before the shaking started (other than the engine replacement), and the Google search did confirm it it a widespread and fairly common issue with aftermarket springs.
I have swapped the rears back to stock, it seemed to make a little but did not solve it. I need to do the fronts but need some time and spring compressors. To make it easier, and replace another possible culprit/or part of the issue, I am ordering new lower control arms with ball joints. They did not look perfect when I had them off, and it should make removal and installation of the struts (with my original springs back) easier. Will keep all posted with results.

 

When you drop the front sub frame to get the rear bolt out of the lower control arms, reverse that bolt from top down to bottom up (nut on top). Then you will never have to drop the subframe to work on them if necessary in the future.

This bolt =

 

Awesome suggestion. Will do that, definitely.
All I need is this current deep-freeze to subside, and I will be at it. As well, my new lower control arms arrived a hour ago - so nothing more to wait for.