when should i service my car
when should i service my car, i got it a 78000 clicks, and its at 81-82000 clicks, and can i take it to a mr.lube or do i need to go to a speacial place, should i also convert everything over to synthetic?
Disco, as for time between oil changes, that is very subjective. Some will tell you every 3K miles, other will recommend every 5K miles. I see it this way, changing the oil more often doesn't hurt anything except for maybe a little bit of money out of the wallet, but the price of a new engine is? Cheap insurance in my opinion. I am currently changing the oil in my Jag every 4K miles. But, I do a lot of highway driving. As for synthetic verses conventional oil, that is your call. Depending on which piece of paper from Jag you look at, some say never to use synthetic oil, others say it is fine. Personally, I don't see a problem with it. So, if you want ot run it, go for it. But, again, it isn't going ot really extend your change times, so, again, a little bit more money for a bit of piece of mind. I personally use conventional oil.
When it comes to the lube shops or changing it yourself, another call. Pros and cons both ways. I like doing my own work so, I take this time to look over the car.
As for the other fluids, most of them are synthetic already (transfer case, rear diff, brakes).
When it comes to the lube shops or changing it yourself, another call. Pros and cons both ways. I like doing my own work so, I take this time to look over the car.
As for the other fluids, most of them are synthetic already (transfer case, rear diff, brakes).
use conventional in engine and synthetic everywhere else, i was at mr. lube, getting a freinds truck serviced since he was pretty busy, and me the the service talk started talking about trransfer cases, he personal thinks the royal purple is better, from dennis, i hear redline is really good too. So does it really matter, hopefully the dipstick guy dosne't kill me for asking.
hi disco i work in the dealer ship of jaguar & land rover in K.S.A
here we tell our costmers to change there oil evry 8000km or evry 6 months if thay didn't drive for 8000k & that's a must if thay dont want 2 lose the warrenty
& for the oil we are useing & it's recomended by jaguar castrol SLX
i hope this help
(sorry for my bad speling my english is not that good)
here we tell our costmers to change there oil evry 8000km or evry 6 months if thay didn't drive for 8000k & that's a must if thay dont want 2 lose the warrenty
& for the oil we are useing & it's recomended by jaguar castrol SLX
i hope this help
(sorry for my bad speling my english is not that good)
Disco, every manufacturer picks a company to provide the "automakers oil". In a lot of cases, they change the normal mix slightly to make it match the auto manufacturer's desires. This helps ensure the automotive manufacturer has wiggle room to deny any claims and the oil companies are willing to do this to ensure their product will sell since the auto manufacturer is going to recommend their product.
As long as the oil is meeting the SAE requirements, then going with brand A over brand Z isn't going to make any bit of difference.
As long as the oil is meeting the SAE requirements, then going with brand A over brand Z isn't going to make any bit of difference.
okay, thanx, i think i might go with cas, or royal. Now i have another question, mud flaps, where can i get the plastic ones that come stock on some, heres a pic of which ones im talking about-

i was told to aviod ( personally don't think these will look good on my car)

stores perhaps like napa, canadain tire, or wal-mart lol

i was told to aviod ( personally don't think these will look good on my car)

stores perhaps like napa, canadain tire, or wal-mart lol
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Disco, something like the first ones you mention are probably going to be found at places like the dealership. You might be able to find them at a store like JCWhitney, but no promises there. As long as you can find a car with a fenderwell shaped fairly close to the Jag, you should be golden. Then it is just a matter of adding a new hole or two to the mudflap to make it work.
Here's some rear ones for $32.00
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jagua...lenotsupported
I'd email them and see if they have the front too.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jagua...lenotsupported
I'd email them and see if they have the front too.
those are just the rear, im going to check out some shops in my city, and see, thats a crazy effing price for mud flaps, i know my dad got all his for 16 bucks, but even for jag, that sound insane.
these are rigid plastic and fit purrrrfic. BritishPartsPlace
REAR $38.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jagua...Q5fAccessories
FRONT $38.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jagua...Q5fAccessories
REAR $38.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jagua...Q5fAccessories
FRONT $38.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jagua...Q5fAccessories
Hey Disco,
I change get my oil changed every 3000 miles. When I take mine in, they do a really good check on everything. I've heard too many bad "quicky lube" stories to trust my kitty to them. But...that's just me.
I change get my oil changed every 3000 miles. When I take mine in, they do a really good check on everything. I've heard too many bad "quicky lube" stories to trust my kitty to them. But...that's just me.
I have to agree with Thermo about the OCI 4k is safe, and non syn. The research I have done on oil is enough to know that at 3k/4k both perform the same and have not broken down. The syn will last you a little longer but will cost more.
The important thing is the oil filter. Those oil-change places use cheap filters and can possibly fail. The thing about the filter that is important is the by-pass valve inside the filter and where it is located. The factory filter is good and mobile are good as well as sever other brands. I recently rebuilt my 02 3.0l and put a K&N filter on it. I am having problems with P1396 code....this is for the VVT solenoid. I replaced the solenoid but I still get the code. I almost have 1k on this rebuild and now think I will go back to factory filter and see if the code disappears. The K&N has a high flow rate and it might be possible that this is causing enough pressure fluctuation to trip the code.
The advise I can give you is to purchase your filter from dealer or parts store and bring it with you to the service location.
Use the link below, go to the FLUIDS section the is alot of info on oil and filters also under Engine ....Info this is information that is very interesting
http://www.drivehq.com/web/jfenley/
The important thing is the oil filter. Those oil-change places use cheap filters and can possibly fail. The thing about the filter that is important is the by-pass valve inside the filter and where it is located. The factory filter is good and mobile are good as well as sever other brands. I recently rebuilt my 02 3.0l and put a K&N filter on it. I am having problems with P1396 code....this is for the VVT solenoid. I replaced the solenoid but I still get the code. I almost have 1k on this rebuild and now think I will go back to factory filter and see if the code disappears. The K&N has a high flow rate and it might be possible that this is causing enough pressure fluctuation to trip the code.
The advise I can give you is to purchase your filter from dealer or parts store and bring it with you to the service location.
Use the link below, go to the FLUIDS section the is alot of info on oil and filters also under Engine ....Info this is information that is very interesting
http://www.drivehq.com/web/jfenley/
Another independent site is http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/. This guy has taken a lot of time and tested more items than I care to admit to and if you can understand everything this guy put on his website, you will be an oil god.
I have to agree with Thermo about the OCI 4k is safe, and non syn. The research I have done on oil is enough to know that at 3k/4k both perform the same and have not broken down. The syn will last you a little longer but will cost more.
The important thing is the oil filter. Those oil-change places use cheap filters and can possibly fail. The thing about the filter that is important is the by-pass valve inside the filter and where it is located. The factory filter is good and mobile are good as well as sever other brands. I recently rebuilt my 02 3.0l and put a K&N filter on it. I am having problems with P1396 code....this is for the VVT solenoid. I replaced the solenoid but I still get the code. I almost have 1k on this rebuild and now think I will go back to factory filter and see if the code disappears. The K&N has a high flow rate and it might be possible that this is causing enough pressure fluctuation to trip the code.
The advise I can give you is to purchase your filter from dealer or parts store and bring it with you to the service location.
Use the link below, go to the FLUIDS section the is alot of info on oil and filters also under Engine ....Info this is information that is very interesting
http://www.drivehq.com/web/jfenley/
The important thing is the oil filter. Those oil-change places use cheap filters and can possibly fail. The thing about the filter that is important is the by-pass valve inside the filter and where it is located. The factory filter is good and mobile are good as well as sever other brands. I recently rebuilt my 02 3.0l and put a K&N filter on it. I am having problems with P1396 code....this is for the VVT solenoid. I replaced the solenoid but I still get the code. I almost have 1k on this rebuild and now think I will go back to factory filter and see if the code disappears. The K&N has a high flow rate and it might be possible that this is causing enough pressure fluctuation to trip the code.
The advise I can give you is to purchase your filter from dealer or parts store and bring it with you to the service location.
Use the link below, go to the FLUIDS section the is alot of info on oil and filters also under Engine ....Info this is information that is very interesting
http://www.drivehq.com/web/jfenley/





