didn't want to hijack any threads so here all to see after a couple of moneths after winter

Okay, so after i got a few ideas about he car, i decided to implament them, i also have some questions

this one is right for the winodw tinit questions, front 20% back is limo( can't remebr what percent)

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Dosen't look dark from theinside with the camera, but it is

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SECOND SIDE MARKER BLACK OUT, STILL CAN SEE LIGHT AND AT NIGHT LOOKS AMAZING


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fRONT MARKER, AFTER I PAINTED IT, SANDED IT OFF AND DID IT THE RIGHT WAY LOL

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BEFORE the TINT was put on

IT WAS woth it, u can't see throught he front ethier, the the back forget it, its helps at night oo, and keeps the car cool during the day!

And i ave to watch out for cops for the front windows, im in canada guys!

tHERES A K AND N FILTER and im wondering if u guys thing i should black out he back red side markers, and i was thining of painting the rims for winter something like thissss......



saw it on a bmw looks amazing, and i think even better on our cars.
And the mud flaps have arived so they'll be on soon with new paint

So now for the questions

How can i wash the car at home, wax, and make it look brand new?

And oil cange, whats average cost, i was quoted 180 from a european car shop, and close to 70 bucks from mr lube, mr lube guys are from school an stonners if it helps decide.

 

In regards to the oil change, $180 seems high if your only getting a minor service performed on the vehicle. The dealer out here (southern CA, U.S.) only charged me about $125.00 for minor service plus visual inspection of the vehicle and wash/vacume

BTW, nice pics. Black on black is sharp!

 

Great Pics Stu! Thanks so much for posting, These should help me alot. Your back window and rear doors are limo and your front doors are 20%? my interior is tan so its gonn alook alot lighter.

 

yeah, i love my car, except the rust which is geting fixed and made bullteproof, with the mud flaps. And all the internal damage thanx to the idiot previous owner, fixed alot of it, but its ging to cost me abother 2300 + to repair, it might be cheaper who knows, well see next summer

 

disco you live in the states?? My local Jag dealer charges me $70 for a oil change...

 

Disco, I get my oil changed at Thermo's Madhouse Mods for like $20. OH wait, I am Thermo. He he he he. Change it yourself. IT isn't hard and gives you a chance to look the car over. Getting at the parts is really easy and doesn't take all that long. Besides, having a garage is icing on the cake as you don't even have to worry about weather like I do. If you are worried about getting rid of the old oil, most auto parts places will recycle the oil for you for free. I have a 5 gallon gas can that I put all my used oil in and once it gets full, I take it in and dump it.

If you need more info, let me know. IT takes me about 30 minutes taking it nice and slow to change my oil. By the time you figure in driving to the "Jiffy lube" place and all that, it will save you time too.

 

No i live in canada and mr lube i 65 bucks, while the speaciality shop is just under 500, yeah i know right wtf, the speacialy is with the transfer case fuild too. Alrighty then thermo, i have decided to go with ur way, what tools do i neeed, how much time, how much MONEY, and the tc valve, teach me everything you know......jedi jaguarian

 

Disco, I don't think you want me teaching you all that I know. You are talking to the guy that used to sleep with his feet against nuclear tipped missiles and knows "a thing or two about their construction". LMAO. I'm also a nuclear reactor operator by trade with a heavy background in electronics and most things mechanical. Scared? LMAO.

Now, more on the light side. As for the oil change, rags, a 15 mm (16mm?) wrench, a small oil filter wrench (if your last mechanic screwed you), a catch pan (minimum 6 liter, most are 10+ liter), small funnel, and some rags. Oh yeah, a jack and some jack stands (2). First get the front end of the car high enough that you can slide under the vehicle while it is supported on the jackstands. Remove the filler cap for the oil. Now, using the wrench, remove the oil drain plug (passenger side, center of engine front to rear ). let all the oil drain out into the pan and then reinstall the plug. Slide the pan forward and place it under the front bumper (ie, under the oil filter). You will see a hole that you can stick your hand up in with the oil filter on the side of the engine sitting at a 45 degree angle. Remove the oil filter (this is where making sure that you put the filter on so it is snug but not torqued down is key, I'm sure if it is too tight, you will have some "choice" words). place the old filter in the pan to finish draining. Then pour about 1/3 liter of oil into the new filter (enough to get the filter about half full once things settle down), install the new filter. Pour in the rest of the opened bottle of oil into the engine. Do a quick look under the vehicle to make sure you don't have oil pouring on to the floor (remember me mentioning to install the drain plug, this is the ID 10 T check). Pour in 5 more liters of oil (or as much as your engine needs) and verify that your oil level is near where it should be. This should be checked once the engine has been run for a few minutes too. To do an oil change, it costs me about $20 USD, so, for you probably about $25 CDN. Where things can differ a lot is whether you are using Quaker, Halvoline, Mobil 1, standard oil, full synthetic, blended synthetic, etc. That is your call. I have tried the full synthetic and didn't see any difference in my car as far as smoothness or mileage. Just don't use Fram filters. Jaguar doesn't recommend them due to a fiber particle problem with the filters. Stick with Wix, Purolator, or some other brand name and all will be good.

As for the transfer case valve, odds are you will need to stop at 2 stores. First, go to the auto parts store and get a radiator drain valve (must have a collar on the handle, if in doubt, look in my gallery at the drain valve I have shown there, not all drain valves have this collar on them) and 1 quart/liter of 75W-140 full synthetic gear lube. The drain valve is about $5 (USD or CDN) and the lube will be about $18 USD ($20 CDN). Next, run to the hardware store and pick up a 1/2" NPT male - 1/4" NPT female adapter. With the radiator drain plug in hand, it will be obvious what you need. Essentially you are "enlarging" the threads on the radiator drain plug to fit the transfer case. Next walk over to the tubing section and get some clear tygon tubing that will fit into the collar on the drain valve snugly (3/16" tubing as I recall). You will need atleast 4 feet of it.

Once back home, you will need to do a little bit of prep work. Insert the drain valve into the fitting and tighten down. Now, using a file or bench grinder, round the flats of the adapter (NOT THE FLATS OF THE DRAIN VALVE!!!!) while not damaging the threads of the adapter. SHould only need to remove the 6 points and get them down to the point of the adapter having 12 points now (doesn't take too much work). You may need to remove a little more later depending on how much you initially removed. This is a good time to play with the drain valve some and see which way is open and which way is closed as this valve is backwards from what you are probably used to.

With the car up on jackstands again, locate the transfer case (follow the rear driveshaft forward and the first block you run into is the transfer case). On the driver's side near the bottom, you will see a plug with a square hole in it. This is the drain plug. Using a 3/8" ratchet, remove the plug. Catch any fluid (if there is any) in your drain pan. Now, insert your drain plug/adapter into the hole where you removed the plug from. Use the flats on the drain plug to install the adapter/drain plug assembly. You can hand tight install the plug initially and see if you are getting any rubbing of the flats on the adapter against the outside of the transfer case. If you are, a little more flat material removal will be needed. Install the adapter/drain plug as far as you can and then tighten with a wrench (9/16"?).

To fill the transfer case, you will need to run a length of tubing down from the top of the engine bay to the new valve. Insert the lower end of the tube into the collar on the valve. (Ensure) Open the drain valve. Cut the tip of the gear lube bottle to allow you to use that to slide the top end of the tube on to the bottle (can use a funnel if you can adapt the tube to the funnel). Now, add 400-600 ml of gear lube to the transfer case. If you connect the gear lube bottle directly to the tube, you may need to remove the bottle a few times to help prevent drawing any vacuum on the tubing and to also be able to check how much fluid you have added. Once the level in the tubing is steady (some gear lube will remain in the tubing), close the drain valve. Remove the tubing and let any access lube fall into your drain pan.

Tada, done.

 

umm, planning on making any trips to canada. Okay so i understand ost of it i believe, i have replaced the air filter, so now comes to theoil filter, i have heard some problems with the k&N, something about he car computer not likeing the flow rate.

So, what fluids ( specifically) would i need, can u list all of them and and the toatal cost of the oil change, everything invcluding the valve. And do i really need to use a drain pan, or can i use something like a can or old pot or somthing.


Another probelm i have is with the mud gaurds All right so a couple months ago, i had rust and other probelms, now im hunting down the rust. So i purchased these mud gaurds from ebay and it said for all years for the jaguar x type, so yesterday i went to plce them on the rear and its seems the wholes for the bolts are a bit offf, wtf, its said all year. So my question is are the 2002 rear and front mud gaurd a abit different then the 2004, and what can i do about it if they are, just drill new holes in the mud guards ?? any help is appreciated, spent a hour and half tryin to get them on.

 

Disco, I have been bouncing between a few different oils as of late. haven't noticed any change or negative things with it. I have use the Castrol GTX, Havoline, and Quaker State (HIgh Performance). All 3 of those oils should be able to be had for around $3.50 USD a quart. As for the filter, I have been sticking with the Purolator filter.

As for what you drain the oil into, you can use whatever recepticle that you want. Old pan, old milk jug, a pile of rags. Just keep in mind that most auto parts stores will want ot see the oil walk into the store in some sort of sealed container.

As for the gear lube, I buy the Mobil 1 75W-140 gear lube. It is about the only one that I can find that is the recommended 75W-140 in full synthetic. That runs me about $18 a quart.

Please keep in mind that all the prices I am quoting here are USD, not canadian dollars. So, the prices you see may be slightly more. When it comes to the oil, if you go to the auto parts places, a lot of times they are running a special of "buy 5 quarts of Brand XXX and Brand YYY oil filter for $14.99". Then all you do is pick up an additional quart and call it good. That is part of the reason why I have been switching brands. The deal is on a different oil each time I go in.

 

oky doky, so now that i know that, now i have a bigg big problem as i was ddriving today to the theater, and just talking having a good time driving, i looks down a the instrument panel, and my worst nightmare occured, the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, just he light, and everything else is running, fine, no funny niose, other then usal, and no prolbems with accerating, what do i dooooo.

 

See my post under your other topic. THis isn't that big of a deal at this moment. Probably something silly. Get the code read and then lets see what it is from there. Could be something as silly as you forgot to tighten your gas cap hard enough.

 

Alright thanx, jus tkinda worried becuase schools stars in two days, and i've been making her look the best i can lol