2003 X-Type 2.5L, no navigation, digital temperature control.
I am getting ready to install an Android head unit to replace my slowly dying radio/CD combo and add some new cool features including navigation, wi-fi, blue tooth, screen mirroring and reverse camera.
I got the Metra installation kit and harness and I think I have most everything figure out except for the reverse and parking wires. I have not decided if I will connect the parking wire or just ground it to allow video when moving. Does nay one know where the parking brake wire is located? Crutchfield thinks it might be under the hand brake assembly and toward the front but they are not sure. This one is no big deal since I can always ground it to the frame.
The reverse wire is more important because it activated the reverse camera. Crutchfield say the wire is behind the kick panel and could be green with black but they have no clue which kick panel.
I saw that I might have to do some shaving of the AC Knuckle (???) so the unit fits flush but I have no idea what it looks like; I am sure once I take it apart it will become obvious. I also have to trim the trim ring since the head unit is 7'x4" and the opening of the trim ring is only 6.8"x3.9". I might actually have a new trim ring fabricated using a 3-D printer so I can avoid having to trim the already thin trim ring.
I will try to get pictures of the process so the next person upgrading the radio will have it a little easier. Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

 

VTGBoss, the parking brake wire should run through the center console to the e-brake lever itself. It is a black wire. Unfortunately, you are going to find a lot of black wires. So, unless you can hand over hand the wire all the way back to the e-brake, you are going to be playing a lot of guessing games as to which one it is. The only other thing that I could say is to either find a connector in the center console (per the drawing I have, there is no connector as the wire runs directly to the GEM module) or take a pin and poke the insulation and use the pin to connect the multimeter to the wire. Then you are simply watching voltage on the wire to see if it goes from some value (normally around 12 VDC) to 0 VDC with the e-brake actuated. If it doesn't change, then you have the wrong wire.

As for the reverse light, I see 2 options when it comes to reaching this wire. The "easier" of the two is to locate fuse F79 in the passenger compartment fuse box. Your local auto parts store is going to have a piece that will allow you to pull out the fuse, add in this new piece and reinstall the fuse. This will give you a power tap off of that circuit. Then you simply extend the tap off wire over to the radio. Option 2 is to access the rear of the car and tap into one of the tail lights. You will be after a green wire with a black stripe (pin 2 on the left hand side, pin 6 on the right hand side, on the tail light itself). Then you will need to run a new wire from the tail light up to the radio. Since you are installing a reverse camera and most likely running a wire from the back of the car to the radio, this may be the easier answer.

I guess you do have 2 other options for the reverse light. You can get the switchable signal off of the backup sensor module. The other being that there is a wire that runs up to the rear view mirror. But, this would be a much more difficult to access as you have to find the wire in the wire bundles inside the dash or have to pull the mirror down to access the plug there (which you still have to run a wire back down the A-pillar to the radio).

 

Thank you Thermo,


I got the camera installation instructions from the seller and it looks like the back camera cable has the wire that takes the signal from the back to the front built in into the cable; very handy.





I take it that stringing the cable trough the passenger side is better than the driver side since there is likely a lot less other wiring on that side?
I was told that if I can access the hand brake, it should be obvious where the wire is since it should be coming from or near the pivot/hinge of the lever. I have not looked at how easy or difficult it is to get to the hand brake, and for the time being, I am leaning towards just grounding it.
Disappointed with Crutchfield; I bought the package that included the installation manual but it has not much information on it other on how to remove the radio and speakers which the Metra kid also has and there are YouTube videos that are much better.
They offer lifetime support for the items but every question I have asked has received only a generic answer. They will not even discussed the hand brake connection since it involves safety. When I asked about the proper/recommended way to modify the trim ring (which is too small) the answer was...do it any way you want; not even a suggestion on what is the recommended way or what tool to use. I think I will have a new made using a 3-D printer since it will probably stick out some because of the tight space behind the radio console assembly.
Looks like you are the expert when it comes to our car; your help is greatly appreciated.

 

VTG, the thing you need to consider is not so much how many wires, but the total current flowing in the wires. The current is what will induce noise into the surrounding cables. A single large cable can introduce tons more noise than 100 small wires.

With what you are doing, you may want to consider running the cable straight up the center. This will keep you away from a majority of the wiring. Then all you need to worry about doing is removing the rear seat which is pretty easy. You will have most of the center console apart to access the e-brake switch.

As for how to modify the trim, I can't blame Crutchfield from being somewhat mum on that subject. There are too many variables when it comes to how it can be done and what will be a long lasting thing. I normally mounted the radio where I thought I wanted it and then started slowly putting the pieces back on. I would then also reference pieces that were solid (say the top of the ashtray or a screw hole on the side of the dash trim) to see how much distance I have between that point and the radio and then this will give me an idea of how much material I may need to remove from the trim around the radio. This is one of those things that each radio is its own little project.

Something else that I will recommend (saved my butt once) is to use something like plumber's tape (metal tape about 1" wide with lots of holes in it) to mount the radio such that all the screws holding the radio in place are buried. Getting the tape around a very solid object is also very helpful. If someone gets into the car, they are going to have a hell of a time trying to get the radio out and will more than like give up as they don't want to take a lot of time trying to get at the radio. The radio I had was a very high end unit (only radio I have ever seen with karaoke built into it). I could see where the person got in, but quickly found out that getting the radio out of the dash was going to be a PITA, so they left with only a few CDs for the taking.

 

To run the camera wiring through the center, I would have to remove the arm rest and hand brake assemblies and maybe the carpeting since it is one piece on the back. I could try running a fish tape but I found out in the past that, because of the sound proofing material under the carpet, this I not always possible. I thought I could run it under the trim on the side.

The trim ring I was talking about is a plastic frame about 7.5"x4.5" with an opening that is 6.7x3.8 (so the trim sides are 0.25"-0.50" wide/thick) that goes around the radio to cover the gap between the radio and supporting frame. The opening should be 7"x4" which is pretty much the standard for double DIN head units but for some reason Metra makes it smaller and thus the already very thin sides of the frame need to be trimmed at least 0.1" on all inside edges but, since there is small inside lip, it becomes more complicated.

I have done some reading and seems like it is a common issue and people usually talk a Dremel tool to trim ring. I would think that as often as it happens, Crutchfied would have a set of recommendation or Metra would make a ring with slightly bigger cutout. The entire assembly will be solidly installed and it would take some time to take it apart and steal it; not really worried about it.

As always, thank you for the information and advice.

 

VTG, I would atleast take a look and see. You might be surprised. As for running the wire down the sides, sure, you can always do that. Just try and minimize the amount of distance the factory wires and the new wires parallel each other.

As for trimming up the Metra kit, I would be like the others and recommend a dremel tool. But, if you don't have one, then a file will not add that much time. Or, go to your local hardware store and get yourself a new tool and fine other uses for it. For this sort of project, they make bigger ones that are really meant for say cutting holes in drywall and whatnot. But, they also come with a large area sander paddle. They run like $50 and once you get one, you will wonder how you lived without it. Comes in very handy.

 

I have had the Jag for about 11 years but I have done amazingly very little work on it as it has been very reliable. Replaced the thermostat assembly that cracked, had he upper gaskets replaced and one sensor on the engine behind the radiator that was a PIA and required a special tool and the usual brake job but that is about it. I really am not that familiar with the inside.


Obviously I will heed your advice; no question you know a heck of a lot more than I do.


The trim ring is a very thin, flimsy frame and that is the problem. I have all kinds of tools including the Dremel Pro-max oscillating tool but the problem is that they are all too big. I know I have a small original Dremel somewhere in my garage but finding it might be more trouble than it is worth. Once I have it all installed. I will make a drawing of exactly what I need/want and get it fabricated using a 3-D printer. You can get something like that done locally and very inexpensively any more and I do that when prototyping equipment I build; extremely handy.


Thanks again for all the help.

 

VTG, not a problem. i work with miniatures all the time. So, I can understand how working with thin pieces can be a challenge. If you need anything, let me know. I wish you were a little closer, I would tell you to come over and we would get it installed in no time flat. I haven't done a stereo in a long time and am not getting an itch to do one.

 

Thanks Thermo,
I wish you were closer too. I believe you are close to my brother and sister who live in Gaithersburg and Olney, Maryland.
I believe I have the radio location pretty much the way I want it; I did have to cut a knob from the air duct on the back to get more room and cut a little too much leaving a small hole; nothing duct tape will not fix. It sticks out a little on the front but the new trim will fix this.
I think routing the camera wire through the center will not work, the side look promising though.
The issue I have now is how to route the GPS antenna to either the dash or windshield, I was surprised how tight the dash and the door pillar are; I am not sure I want to take apart the entire dash assembly. I thought I would just get it to the dash and mount it between the two vents or take it to the top of the windshield and mount it behind the rear view mirror, although this would require taking apart the pillar cover next to the windshield and not much room between the windshield and roofliner. Any words of wisdom on this will be greatly appreciated.

 

VTG, if you are ever back that way to see them, I am about 2 hours away. Let me know and I am sure we can work out something.

As for the GPS antenna, I would say to remove the glove box (4 screws on the bottom as I recall). This will open up the dash on the passenger side. From there, you can pass the wire with relative ease to the passenger side A pillar. Carefully remove the A pillar and you can run the wire up that way. Then if you have any more, you can remove the sunvisor and tuck the extra in there, running towards the rear view mirror. There should be enough room to run the antenna up the A pillar area, just may need to tuck it back by the windshield as I recall that is where most of the extra room is going to be.

 

Nitro,
That would be nice. However, I don't get that way that much anymore. My dad lives near me in a retirement home so they normally come to see him a couple of time per year and I get to see them.
I will take a look at removing the glove box and going that route, sounds like the best strategy any thoughts on how to remove the trim from the A pillar? Does it just snap out and then back in?
I will try to install the manual one more time, I have a CD I purchased a while ago somewhere in my office. I am not sure if that is the version I installed or if I downloaded one from this forum; the main screen opens up but when I select the service or wiring icons the program crashes. It would help greatly having it working.

 

VTG, removing the A-pillar is nothing more than a few friction clips. Just don't go shoving a screw driver in there as I seem to remember an airbag being in that area. If my memory serves me correct, the pillar really goes in at about a 45 degree to the windshield, almost along the windshield. so, when you go to remove the a-pillar, kinda try to follow the windshield. I also seem to remember a retaining rope up near the top. It unhooks easy enough. Just don't get happy with pulling the A-pillar too far before you disconnect it.

Again, from what I remember, you have 2 clips up high, down down low, out near the edges of the pillar cover.

 

Removing the A pillar was fairly easy. I went to EBay and found one that had picture from all direction and it was easy to spot where the clips were.

I modified the rear view mirror cowl that cover the wires to allow the GPS antenna cable to be routed through it. There is no room to hide the wire under the roof liner; when I tried, the edge of the liner started to become loose so I stopped since I do not want a liner issue. I will just use a stick on holder at the top of the windshield to hold the wire hidden and I need to figure out how to glue the liner edge (0.25"-0.50") back on.

I have been really busy so I have not had much time to work on it; hopefully I can finish it this weekend. Here are a few pics of what I have so far:





A Pillar without trim


Modified rear view mirror cover to allow GPS antenna wire


Radio and frame at final location. Notice where trim ring needs to go.

 

VTG, I seem to remember that there was a little gap about 1" back from the edge of the ceiling. loosen the sun visor and that will let the corner of the ceiling to droop a little bit and you should be able to tuck the GPS antenna completely out of sight.

As for the trim around the radio, slow and steady. I always hated this work, but if done right, it will set the radio off from what others have done. Something you may find of use is to take say a 1x4 and using a circular saw or router, put a gap in the wood that the trim can set it. This will give you support along the whole edge as you are working it to get the right spacing.

 

I will try loosening the sun visor and see if it gives me enough room to sneak the wire over the liner. Any advise on how to glue the liner cloth to the liner? It is loose only about 0.25" but I would prefer it does not peel any further.

I had the wiring to the rear camera all laid out to the back of the trunk only to realize the tag is not on the body but on the trunk lid...big DUH!
I will have to use flexible tubing wrap to bring the wire from the trunk to the trunk lid...live and learn.

 

VTG, to tack the liner back down, I would get my hands on a can of rubber contact cement. Using a brush, apply a little bit and tap the cloth back into place. That is about as good as you are going to get. Trying to use a product like "3M Super 77 spray interior adhesive" is going to make more of a mess than it is worth.

 

That is what I was thinking. There is a fabric glue that I have used in the past that will probably work. I have several spray cans of assorted fabric adhesive but using them is out of the question.

 

This will rule out the possibility of any color or chemical reaction changing the fabric color, like on my light interior.

 

Fabric Glue I have used before.

Thanks for the info Dell. This is what I have use in the past for various repairs that included fabric; looks like the product you mentioned would be a better option.

 

Here's an example of "dries clear" fabric glue my mother used to repair a rip in her light colored couch (back w/reinforcing patch). This is why I would be concerned with an unwanted color bleed.