I am at a dead end. 2002 X-Type, 3.0, 90K miles. Have had the ubiquitous "Cruise Not Available" message and MIL illuminated, so I checked for codes and the only one in memory is the knock sensor. Decided to tackle possible vacuum leaks first - replaced brake booster line, PCV hose (but not PCV valve - it's the newer green type and checked OK), upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, throttle body o-ring, and both IMT o-rings.

All lights/warnings went off for three drive cycles, now both are back but the Cruise message is intermittent - on when engine is cold, then shuts off after 5-10 minutes, then comes back on about 20-minutes after that during constant throttle (literally - comes on during freeway driving with cruise control activated). Rechecked codes and only knock sensor, and STFT and LTFT were both negative % so I figure I nailed any intake leaks. Used carb cleaner and re-checked for vacuum leaks anyway and found a very small one on the vacuum line coming out of the top of the intake right after the throttle body. Sealed it but the message remains. No change in RPMs when spraying any other vacuum points.

So, barring any new ideas for other potential vacuum leak places, here are my questions:

1) Maybe I don't have a vacuum leak - can a bad knock sensor give a Cruise Not Available message? I've never seen that in a post.

2) While replacing the manifold gaskets, I noticed coolant on top of the block, especially around the knock sensor. Can coolant around the sensor give a fault code, or is it likely the sensor is bad regardless of the coolant (i.e. will fixing the leaks and drying the sensor likely resolve the problem, or should I plan on just replacing it)?

3) Since I clearly need to go "back in" and replace coolant gaskets and hoses (assuming it's not from a bad head gasket - no evidence of that), I've found part numbers for the upper and lower radiator hoses, but I imagine there must also be gaskets/o-rings of some type to replace since there's that metal coolant pipe runnning down the center of the block under the fuel rail? If so, can anyone direct me to where I can find part numbers (or at least part names)?

4) Can the Cruise message be related to engine temp, i.e. bad thermostat and/or my coolant leak(s)?

I know I have a lot of questions, but I have read just about every post on this subject and feel I've tried all the recommendations with no success. Please help!!

Thanks,
Jason

 

Hey Jason, don't despair, I'm sure the X type crew with their accumulated knowledge will be along to offer advice shortly.

No codes showing you say?

 

I hope so! Yes, there are persistent codes - knock sensor only.

 

What is the code it's throwing?

 

P0332 and P0333

 

Hopefully one of the techs can advise but just from reading the DTC descriptions for Cruise not available on your MY, I did not see one that listed anything outside of the ECM or cruise control switches/circuitry (or an ABS issue which would indicate an ABS fault as well as the amber MIL - Cruise Not available). The codes for cruise issues are P0565 through P0570

The JTIS code list reflects the cruise fault as readable only through the WDS Jag diagnostics so if using an Actron or ELM w bluetooth, these may not be obtainable.

I will see if I can save the file and post for you but the DTC's may already be available in the how to's

 

Thanks for the info! Here's some updated info from this morning's drive:

With the known coolant leak, my reservoir was down about 1/4 to 1/3 (loses that much over 1-2 months), so I topped it off last night and I did not have the Cruise Not Available message for my entire drive. So now I am even more confused - why would a low-level in the reservoir cause the Cruise message?

 

Just a thought. How healthy is your battery?

Weird or inconsistent error codes / warning messages can often be an indication of a failing battery.

Graham

 

Battery is about 3-years old - good idea! I'll check it...

 

New thought - is there a pressure sensor for the cooling system? If so, and I have the leak, could that cause the Cruise message?

 

I believe you have unrelated issues occurring at the same time that need to be resolved separately. The combined value of multiple little things tends to overwhelm and give a sense of impending doom. Step back, deep breaths - take one thing at a time.

Graham brings up a very good point on battery condition/voltage. Have the battery and charging system checked.

Some P codes can only be read with Jaguar specific software - you may need to find an indie or dealer to read for cruise codes.

For the coolant leak - recommend pressure testing the system to see if you can locate the leak source.

 

It may be a problem with the throttle body. About once every few months I go I to limp mode and it's traced back to a problem between cruise and the throttle body.
Just a thought.

 

Do you recall what part of the throttle body had the problem? The throttle position sensor?

Seem to be quite a few TB problems mentioned in posts, so I thought I'd share this TSB from Jaguar:

X-TYPE

XT303-21

MODEL:
2002 MY-ON
X-TYPE

VIN:
C00001-ON

Electronic Throttle Body - Cleaning Prohibited

Issue:

Cleaning the throttle body will wash contaminants into the bearings, and will remove the grease from the throttle body that is necessary to ensure its correct operation. Either of these actions can reduce the life of the component and result in the subsequent failure of the throttle body.

The electrical connectors on the throttle body must not have any types of grease (including dielectric greases), oils, or sealants (including silicone) applied to help seal the connectors. Applying these products can result in corrosion of the connectors and result in failure of the connector.

Action:

Do not clean the throttle body.

Do not apply any greases to the electrical connectors on the throttle body. When reinstalling a throttle body, it is important to ensure that all connector seals and wiring seals are in place and are not damaged. Verify that all connectors are fully pushed home and latched correctly.

Note: If a throttle body is replaced under Warranty, and is found to have been cleaned, or if oil/grease or sealant have been applied to the connectors, the Warranty claim could be rejected if this is found to be a contributing factor to the failure.

 

that TSB is curious. My local Jaguar dealer cleaned my throttle body to (succesfully) rectify a limp mode event. I have the bill somewhere that describes that work.

I have since done it myself a few times. Over a few years this has not caused any problems. Even a replacement will gunk up over time - the sudden loss of power associated with a sticking butterfly valve in the tb can! if it occurs at the wrong time, make for serious brown trouser moments. So i will continue with the periodic tb cleaning and put this tsb in the same bracket as Jag advice about TC and gearbox oil changes.

 

OK - battery and charging system are good. Been driving with a Snap-On Ethos scanner and been storing movies during various conditions and will be reviewing the data this week. I've been taking detailed notes on MIL and Cruise messages, as well as performance:
1) At cold start-up, starts fine but then RPMs drop within 2-3 seconds. Cruise Not Available comes on, MIL lights with only two codes: P-0332 and P-0333 (knock sensors). RPMs go back to normal.
2) I clear the codes using Ethos and MIL turns off, but Cruise remains
3) Cruise message turns off after about 5-minutes of driving
4) Cruise message returns with MIL (same knock sensor codes) after about 15-minutes after it turned off
5) Clearing codes with scanner removes MIL for duration of trip but Cruise remains
6) Acceleration is slow and engine bucks if I push the throttle too hard
7) RPMs can't go above 3K RPM

So here are my current thoughts:
1) TPS: from the Jaguar OBDII guide, I should have a DTC for this and I don't. Also, from the Ethos, it appears throttle % varies as it should. Next step to be sure this isn't failing is pull out the 'ol DMM and check for uniform increasing resistance across the range. Any other ideas on TPS?
2) MAF: again, no code for this. Ethos data shows normal fluctuations.
3) Knock sensor codes: DTCs only stored at cold start-up after Cruise message and don't return after clearing which tells me it's probably not a short or failing sensor. Will probably DMM this, too, but not expecting to find anything.
4) ECM programming: found a TSB on drivability problems exactly like mine resolved through re-programming the ECM with an update. Is there a way to find out what version of software I'm running without a dealer visit? Can Ford read the ECM?
5) Fuel pressure: Ethos data shows normal pressure throughout.

Anybody have feedback on all of this?! New ideas? I'm ticked-off - going to solve this yet!

Thanks!

 

I've had a good response emailing the dealership with my VIN and asking them about specific updates applied to my car. Might want to try that.

 

If the KS codes come back so often that's telling you there's a definite fault. Wiring, connector or damp, probably. Start by finding and fixing and see if cruise comes back or other codes are then enabled to flag, moving you forward.

 

Yes - the more I research, the more I'm convinced that the KS and Cruise message are unrelated. I know I have a small coolant leak at the water rail and plan to replace the gaskets (and sensor) in the next couple of weeks.

Possible breakthrough with the Ethos data: the first few samples I watched showed the air flow rate to be consistent with load. However, I've found quite a few samples where the air flow rate either jumped around during constant speed, or was much higher or lower than what the speed would require. So, I'm going to clean the MAF and see if that helps. Again, no DTC for the MAF, so it might just be dirty. Will post outome...

 

Cleaned the MAF and MAP, and wiped the TB clean (no solvent - I know the TSB is taken by some with a grain of salt, but I don't want introduce any new variables into the equation!). Re-checked all connections and wiring and all are good. No change.

So here's my latest hypothesis: I haven't mentioned it yet, but I also have an oil pan gasket leak. The way I understand it, the ECM monitors air flow to adjust fuel by using inputs from both the MAF and MAP. So in the intake system, the ECM takes the data from the MAF first since it's first in the circuit and compares it to the MAP data - if there's a difference it doesn't expect given engine load (i.e. MAP doesn't drop as much as it expects during acceleration given the quantity of air detected by the MAF, etc.) it might give me the Cruise message. I wouldn't get a DTC because both MAF and MAP circuits are operating correctly, but the ECM knows something is wrong and gives the Cruise message.

So the oil pan leak fits into this because of the PCV - the crankcase is supposed to be a closed system and pressure is relieved through the PCV into the intake. If there is an oil pan gasket leak, the system is open and manifold vacuum sucks more through the PCV than it should (essentially pulls outside air in through the gap between oil pan and block), causing a greater disparity between the MAP and MAF readings than there should be because the PCV inlet is relatively between the two sensors.

Thoughts?

 

JW
It seems to me(just a thought)if there was a leak in the pan gasket large enough to let in outside air into the pan with 7 qts of oil in the pan it might foam some. I know there isn't a full 7 qts in the pan when running but still. Did you clean the PVC valve and check that the hose isn't pinched off somehow. A knock sensor will put it into limp mode to protect the engine from piston side slap, replace knock sensor, fix coolant leak. It's knocking for a reason, low octane gas,water in the gas,running to hot, never heard one knock with a electronic spark control, BUT the knock sensor itself if it's bad can set a DTC, DO YOU HEAR any knock or dieseling , if not could be the sensor itself setting the code.