A few weeks ago I replaced my front brake pads, an easy job - just like every other car I ever did brakes on. I also read the forum posts and the sticky posts (a great resource - tx to all of you!) on how the rear brakes are much harder to do, the left side in particular because it retracts counterclockwise.

I read the JTIS too, and aside from the special "tool" they show for the job - which looks like a screw and plate that simply turns to push it back in, all it says in JTIS is that "the caliper piston retracts counterclockwise on the left and clockwise on the right." That makes it sound like a screw job.

So, last sunday I took a crack at it - starting with the harder left side. I opened the brake fluid resevior so the fluid could flow back through the system, but I could not get the caliper piston to retract. It turned relatively easily, using pliers in the cutouts, but it seemed to just spin rather than retract. I tried using an 8" clamp to compress it back in, but that didn't seem to work either.

So, my question is does it just turn and retract like a screw - or is it some wacky thing where you have to turn AND apply lots of pressure at the same time?

Since the caliper face that touches the pads has those two wedge-shaped cutouts on the edge and since the pads have that little dimple on the face that goes into the cutout on the caliper face (I think...), it doesn't seem like it would screw outward to apply stopping power to the pads - it would have to come straight out. And, the "shadows" on the old pads make it look like the caliper comes straight out (as opposed to screwing out - the shadow isnt round.)

I don't get it. Do they screw in and out or not?

 

Found an old post from Curmudgeon - I suppose I should have searched more carefully before posting my q- sorry. So now I am replying to myself! WooHoo!

So, I ordered that cube-shaped gadget. But, the page with "instructions" isn't all that clear, and picture it shows is wacky. I guess I'll figure out how to use it when it arrives. One vendor also had a "Caliper Kit" that looked like the JTIS tool with lots of adapters, but it was $40 versus this Cube's $12, so I'm trying the cube first. the Amazon page had a review from a satisfied X-type brake-changer, so... I'm hoping for the best (and maybe wasting $14).

 

Meatbag, yes on both accounts. You need to turn the piston in the directions that you stated above, but at the same time, you need to be pushing in. Having the bleed valve open on the caliper will make the job much easier. Yes, you can do it with the bleed valve shut, but you had better be built like Hulk Hogan. When I did my car, I used a 3/8" ratchet and a 6" extension with the cube on the end.

From there, once you get the calipers installed with the new pads, you will need to exercise the emergency brake a few times as this is what will push the piston out and keep it out so the pads are just sitting off of the rotor. You will know you have the piston in the proper position because the first few times you do the e-brake, it will feel like the system is broke. Then you will feel it get tight like you are used to.

if you have more questions, just ask.

 

Here is what you need:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97143