X-Type ( X400 ) 2001 - 2009
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Old 11-10-2015, 01:54 PM
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Default X Type stalled

Hello my name is Jason and hoping for a little help today.


Last night when my wife was driving the car she was running down the road at 55MPH. All the dash lights came on and the car stalled. I showed up after the wonderful phone call and tried to start the car. It started right up. The minute I hit the gas it stumbled and tried to die. I opened the hood of the car. Just as I got the hood opened the car died. Tried to restart the car and no luck.


It sounds to me like the fuel pump died in the car.


I plan to do a fuel pressure test tonight when I get home. I have not replaced the fuel filter yet. That will be done in the next couple of days.


Any sensors or switches to look at?


Anyone found a other than JAG fuel pump? I found this write up here.
2003 x type fuel pump replacement


Any help would be much appreciated.


Jason


2003 X Type 2.5L 100K miles
 
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Old 11-10-2015, 07:52 PM
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Jason: Here's another link on replacing the fuel pump:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-130721/

If the fuel filter is old, definitely replace it.

But before you decide the fuel pump needs to be replaced, run a few tests:

1) Any error codes?

2) Fuel rail pressure: Connect a gauge to the rail, turn the ignition key to the run position II for ~15 seconds (not start, just run). The rail pressure should increase to ~10 PSI, give or take. Repeat this a few times and the rail pressure should continue increasing in ~10 psi increments until it tops out at ~40 PSI, give of take.

3) Start the engine. The fuel rail pressure should be relatively steady at 40-50 PSI even as you run the engine at different speeds.

If you get results similar to these, your fuel pump is working, at least at the moment. The challenge with an old fuel pump is sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. When they work, everything's fine. And when they stop working, the engine stalls without warning, leaving you to coast to the shoulder without power steering or power brakes.

The thread I sent has more diagnostics that you can run. Let us know what you find, and we'll suggest next steps.
 
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:21 PM
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Dwclapp thank you for the reply.

I will be able to check codes tomorrow i hope.

Did a pressure test tonight. I got nothing. Turned the key on and i heard nothing in the trunk either.

Car will not start at all today.

Looked at the fuse. I think its number 81 and a 30amp fuse. It looked ok.

Jason
 
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Old 11-11-2015, 08:05 AM
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Jason: Before deciding it's time to replace the fuel pump, check to see if the fuel pump is getting ~12 volts power. The problem could be the fuel pump module, which is cheaper and easier to replace than the pump.

Lift the rear seat lower cushion - pull up hard on both front corners. Beneath it, in the center of the car, is a ~5 inch rubber plug with wires thru it. These wires supply power to the fuel pump and two level sensors inside the fuel tank. Under the rubber plug you'll see the top of the black plastic fuel tank and an oversized electrical connector with red and yellow wires that supply the fuel pump with ~10-12 volts power (red) and the ground (yellow).

This thread describes how to test the red & yellow wires to confirm the fuel pump is getting ~10-12 volts power: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-152035/

If not, check the fuel pump module, also under the rear seat, lower cushion. It receives ~10-12 volts power from the battery, and sends ~10-12 volts power the fuel pump. The location and wires to test are described in the same thread, latter posts.

If the fuel pump has ~10-12 volts power, but no pressure in the fuel rail, and you can't feel a gentle hum of the fuel pump energizing when you place your hand on the fuel tank, then it's time to replace the fuel pump: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-130721/

Tell us what you find, and will walk you thru the next steps.
 
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Old 11-11-2015, 09:08 PM
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Ok sitting in the back of the car now. Got the plug apart. Tested the red and yellow wires. Had my daughter turn the ket to the run position. I got 11.7 volts.

I counted to 20 seconds and it stays at 11.7 volts. It does not go off after 8 seconds. Should it?

Connected the plug back together. Tured the key back on and i do not hear any hum nor will the car get pressure to the fuel rail.
 
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Old 11-11-2015, 09:57 PM
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Jason: Unfortunately, it's time for a new fuel pump. You and your helpful daughter confirmed the old pump is getting ~12 volts, but it's not running, at least not reliably - there's no pressure in the fuel rail, and no gentle vibration from inside the tank.

A few options / decisions:

1) Do it yourself, or pay a mechanic.

2) Drop the tank, or cut a hole in the floor under the back seat. Dropping the tank entails removing the driveshaft & exhaust pipe. Cutting a hole in the floor is less work, but not everyone is comfortable cutting metal near the fuel lines and tank.

3) Replace just the pump (~$85) , or the entire canister (~$400). If you wish to replace just the pump, give Welsh Enterprises a call: www.welshent.com. They're one of the few folks who sell the OEM pump without the canister. I bought their pump for ~$85 including S&H ~12 months ago and received it in a few days. Another very helpful member, Paulc732 bought one this summer and said it was not stocked and took longer.

Either way, it's recommended to replace the fuel tank gasket part # C2S8592 for ~$20, such as this: Jaguar 04 05 XJ8 4 2L V8 Fuel System Fuel Pump Gasket C2S8592 | eBay

I elected to cut a hole in the floor and replace just the pump, not the canister. But many folks choose the other routes. No right vs. wrong, just personal preference. For example, do you need the car back on the road quickly, or can you spend some time repairing it?

This thread is helpful: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-130721/

Let us know what you decide, and we'll help from there.
 
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Old 11-11-2015, 10:12 PM
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I am not sure I can cut holes in the body of my Jag I also have concerns of how or if that can weaken the body or integrity of the car.

I was hoping you had a wiz bang answer to solve my problem. I ordered the entire fuel pump canister and it should be here by Friday. I guess I will be tearing into this thing this weekend.

I have read up on tearing all the stuff out from under the car and it does not sound fun. I also have a full tank of fuel in the darn tank that I will need to remove before dropping the tank.

Not looking forward to doing the job but sitting in the back seat unplugging the pump and plugging it back in does not seem to be fixing the problem. LOL

I will post back this weekend with an update.

Jason
 
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Old 11-11-2015, 10:26 PM
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Forgot to ask. Should the power go off after 8 seconds or is constant power ok?
 
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Old 11-12-2015, 07:50 PM
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Jason: Don't worry that ~12 volts in the red wire continued beyond ~10 seconds. That was my mistake. I forgot that, with the fuel pump unplugged, and no pressure in the fuel rail, the normal feedback loop is missing, and power to the pump continues well beyond the normal ~10 seconds. After you install the new pump, the pressure will climb in the fuel rail and the power to the pump will shut off after ~10 seconds - a safety feature.

On a parallel thought: When you drop the tank, unscrew the white retaining ring and remove the pump, you'll see a green o-ring and thin metal split ring under the retaining ring. Pay close attention to how the o-ring and split ring nestle together, even take pictures, so you can reassemble it correctly. This detail is not in the JTIS, not that I can find.
 
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Old 11-14-2015, 11:17 PM
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Its done! Dropped the tank, replaced the fuel pump and it runs again. But now i have a check engine light on.

I ran the car for about 20 minutes around the neighborhood and the check engine light did not got out.

I will have an OBDII i hope next week to be able to check what the error code is.

Jason
 
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Old 11-16-2015, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jmott
Its done! Dropped the tank, replaced the fuel pump and it runs again. But now i have a check engine light on.

I ran the car for about 20 minutes around the neighborhood and the check engine light did not got out.

I will have an OBDII i hope next week to be able to check what the error code is.

Jason
Try to see if disconnecting the battery until all the Electric System´s go down and reconnect it would clean the light for good, making the System "Reboot".

Cheers,
John
 

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