xtype 03, will crank but wont start
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#2
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jamlaw, first try putting a bit of starter fluid into the intake and seeing if you can get the motor to run for a few more seconds. If the motor will not run, then that will confirm a spark issue, if it does run momentarily, then it is a fuel issue. From there, if it is a fuel issue, then you can check the fuel pressure (should be about 40-45 psi with the engine off, 30-40 psi with the engine running). If no pressure, then you can disconnect the upstream connection at the fuel filter and bump the ignition switch (place in RUN for only a second or so) to see if you get any fuel out (warning, may spray, so, make sure face is clear of the area and fuel line is pointed away). If you still don't get fuel, then you may have a bad fuel pump. Replacement isn't hard, but can be difficult if you have a fairly full tank.
If it is a spark issue, then odds are you are looking at a computer. But, should be taken to a shop to confirm this before simply replacing the computer.
If it is a spark issue, then odds are you are looking at a computer. But, should be taken to a shop to confirm this before simply replacing the computer.
#3
Thanks for your advise, I appreciate it. I did this first thing you recommended, i sprayed starter fluid into the intake, tried it a couple of times even, but the engine would not catch. No Spark for ignition. You mentioned it could be the computer. Where is it located? Can I remove it and take it to the Jaguar shop? Can I take it to any other shop? Is the lack of spark directly related to the computer or could it be a seperate box or firing relay? Thanks, jim.
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jamlaw, first, you will need to verify that you have power to the computer. You will need to access the computer and first check that you have 12 VDC at pin 22 on the engine control module (ECM). Next, verify that you have 12VDC when the ignition key is in the RUN position on pins 23 and 24 (white/green wires). Finally, check that you have 12 VDC on pin 7 (green/orange wire) when the ignition key is in the RUN position. Note all voltages on a sheet of paper and read the next paragraph.
From here, if you don't have power on Pin 7, then you have either a bad ignition switch or the wire between pin 7 and the ignition switch is bad. If you don't have power at pins 23 and 24, then first check that fuses F9 and F31 are good, then replace the EMS control relay. If you still don't have power on pins 23 and 24, then remove the EMS control relay and install a wire between spots 3 and 5. Check to see if you have power now at pins 23 and 24. If no, then you have a bad wire between fuse #9 and the ECM. if yes, replace the ECM. If you don't have power at pin 22, check fuse #32 is good. If it is, then you have a bad wire between the ECM and fuse #32.
As for the location of the ECM, it is the module next to the windshield, near the hood hinge on the passenger side. The ECM will be noticeable in that fact that it is the only module in the corner that has a very large connector attached to it with many, many wires.
Please note that I talk about replacing the ECM. I would recommend having the module pulled and then tested before just blindly replacing it. The dealership should be able to test it. NOt sure if an auto parts store could help you there.
Hope this helps.
From here, if you don't have power on Pin 7, then you have either a bad ignition switch or the wire between pin 7 and the ignition switch is bad. If you don't have power at pins 23 and 24, then first check that fuses F9 and F31 are good, then replace the EMS control relay. If you still don't have power on pins 23 and 24, then remove the EMS control relay and install a wire between spots 3 and 5. Check to see if you have power now at pins 23 and 24. If no, then you have a bad wire between fuse #9 and the ECM. if yes, replace the ECM. If you don't have power at pin 22, check fuse #32 is good. If it is, then you have a bad wire between the ECM and fuse #32.
As for the location of the ECM, it is the module next to the windshield, near the hood hinge on the passenger side. The ECM will be noticeable in that fact that it is the only module in the corner that has a very large connector attached to it with many, many wires.
Please note that I talk about replacing the ECM. I would recommend having the module pulled and then tested before just blindly replacing it. The dealership should be able to test it. NOt sure if an auto parts store could help you there.
Hope this helps.
#5
sorry havent replied sooner, vacation, summer projects etc. Followed your instructions, end result was narrowed down to the ECM. Tried to get it tested at my locat Jaguar Dealership, they send they couldn't, unless it was in the car. I just ordered another one, used but suppose to be working. I took out the old one, put in the new (used) one, (same matching numbers) and now, the car wont even turn over. What could that be. Any help, is greatly appreciated. (Battery fully charged)
#7
jamlaw,
Try putting the old ECM back in the car and replace the Battery. Yes, these X types are notorious for eating batteries, leaking batteries, and eating the negative cables. The batteries always leak on the negative terminal, corrode the heck outta the negative cable, causing EXACTLY what you've described. Now, in the 8 or so years the X type has been haunting us, I've replaced exactly 0 ECMs for a no spark condition. Anytime an X is towed in for a no start, we check the battery first. Yes, the engine cranks normally, and all seems normal, but if you TEST the battery it usually fails. And there is NO spark. Why does this happen?? We don't know, we just accept it. Although it is possible the ECM failed, I would go for the battery first based on my experience with these cars.
If the ECM does happen to be defective, you will need to take it to the dealer to have them program it, as it is delivered blank......no software installed. This is why your new ECM is not working giving you the perception that you have made your situation worse.
Try putting the old ECM back in the car and replace the Battery. Yes, these X types are notorious for eating batteries, leaking batteries, and eating the negative cables. The batteries always leak on the negative terminal, corrode the heck outta the negative cable, causing EXACTLY what you've described. Now, in the 8 or so years the X type has been haunting us, I've replaced exactly 0 ECMs for a no spark condition. Anytime an X is towed in for a no start, we check the battery first. Yes, the engine cranks normally, and all seems normal, but if you TEST the battery it usually fails. And there is NO spark. Why does this happen?? We don't know, we just accept it. Although it is possible the ECM failed, I would go for the battery first based on my experience with these cars.
If the ECM does happen to be defective, you will need to take it to the dealer to have them program it, as it is delivered blank......no software installed. This is why your new ECM is not working giving you the perception that you have made your situation worse.
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Jamlaw, like Poboy says, probably need to take the car to the dealership and have them reprogram the new ECU you have to the car and go from there. The new ECU you have is set to work with a different set of keys, so, yes, it probably wouldn't do much. As much as I hate to say it, but it may be time to go to the dealership and let them touch the car.
#11
jam,
Sorry you're having a tough time. I wish I was there to help you. How is the negative cable? Any corrosion?
Another possibility could be the crank position sensor. That's located on the front of the engine, bolted to the front cover down really close to the crank damper or pulley. It reads position off of the crank damper. I haven't replaced one of these either, but doesn't mean yours isn't defective. You could also inspect wiring to the crank sensor, and really thoroughly inspect the wiring to the ECM for rodent damage. Rodents love X's more than any other Jag I know of for some reason. Also, You may just have a power issue to the ECM as Thermo mentioned as well. Check ALL fuses. Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance than this. But this is what you can get for free, I guess.
Sorry you're having a tough time. I wish I was there to help you. How is the negative cable? Any corrosion?
Another possibility could be the crank position sensor. That's located on the front of the engine, bolted to the front cover down really close to the crank damper or pulley. It reads position off of the crank damper. I haven't replaced one of these either, but doesn't mean yours isn't defective. You could also inspect wiring to the crank sensor, and really thoroughly inspect the wiring to the ECM for rodent damage. Rodents love X's more than any other Jag I know of for some reason. Also, You may just have a power issue to the ECM as Thermo mentioned as well. Check ALL fuses. Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance than this. But this is what you can get for free, I guess.
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