When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
.... I am about to open mine up and replace those plastic pipes under the SC. and anything else I can while I'm in there .
Are you going to remove the SC? Someone posted that you can replace all the pipes at the front of the engine without removing it. I'm curious. It looks possible.
I know I am responding to an old post, but for anyone reading, the plastic pipes actually degrade faster than aluminum when exposed to heat and coolant. If you have ever spilled a fair amount of coolant on your hands you will understand how. It completely dries your skin out, removing the skins protective oils, as I am sure it does with plastic ( not sure if plastic has protective oils but you know what I mean). The coolant is made to be more compatible and organic, but it still causes degradation over time. That being said, the aluminum will take you farther, last longer, and if you have pipes in hard to reach places, I feel it's better to take care of it before it becomes an issue because the places are not only hard to reach, it takes a while for symptoms to show because they are out of sight and any small leaks will go into the splash shield so you won't see signs until its either too late or you do routine maintenance. Just my opinion and insight from the research I have been doing . I am about to open mine up and replace those plastic pipes under the SC. and anything else I can while I'm in there .
I just replaced my pipes w/ the aluminum ones. I need about an hour to finish up. I had the whole kit that came w/ brass vent plug (there are two but kit only had one) as well as a new brass elbow that connects to the thermostat hose. mine broke and left the o-ring and piece of the plastic tube inside. I used a small pick to remove and wound up pushing the plastic into the water pump. used a small wet/dry vac to suck it out ( I did not drain system so when the coolant was sucked out of the pump I ma sure it came out). Now my issue is I did not notice which way the little gripper was oriented in relation to the o-ring. no diagram that I have found explains it so I am stuck and the wife is wanting her baby back real bad. one warning I will give is the locating dowels will likely be stuck. Be patient and have a cold beer. Use the snout to gently rock up and down on the front. I used (4) 8mm X 60 mm long with some washers and a couple short chains bolted to the (4) center bolt holes and used a spare shovel handle (just blank handle I had) and pryed against the shock tower or stuctural brace to lift up while tapping w/ rubber mallet. Just when you are about to give up, try rocking the snout up & down again and pop it willl lift out. You will have to pick up snout and move it forward a little to disconnect everything in back. Take a few pictures for reference. the top pice is what the engine cover mounts to else toss it. The second bracket is attached to the supercharger gearcase cover w/ small threaded extensions. NOTE: going back in you will NOT be able to get a t30 bit in there on a ratchet. I glued my gaskets down to the heads w/ small amount of ultra grey rtv as my gaskets were slightly warped and I wanted them flat and unmovable while manhandling the supercharger back in. The dowels need to be sanded down and silicone greased before going back in. I changed the supercharger oil while it was out. I drained what looked like 2-1/2 - 3 ounces out but I put in the whole 4 oz back in. Be prepared to remove rat nest and/or oil and coolant if it has been leaking. I took the opportunity to by-pass the coolant line that heats the throttle body as it had been weeping and the connection at the back is relative easy to get at and it is pointed to Left side so I routed around the back of the head to the front to re-connect to the overflow line. The original was clipped to bottom of supercharger so I cleaned that up.I wish I had known about the worthless symposer before hand as I would have blocked off the back of the intake and deleted it as it is a needless point of failure at some time. Sorry for the rambling as I am still amped from today's effort. Oh, one last warning, the edges of the intake with the cover off are like razors as I have 3 differnt cuts as I don't wear gloves. I actually used a debur tool to chamfer them while the SC was on the table and no metal could get into engine. I also took time to degrease the oil vapor deposits from the inter coolers in the intake as they were nasty at only 45K miles. you will need T-30 & T-40 for everything. I have the manual for the 2017 and the bolt torque specs are easy. Good luck!
I found it on ebay a year or so ago. it is just a CD/DVD with PDF (495 MB) and it is organized by system. It is not as detailed as I like or am accustomed ( I have several FORD service CD's from 97 - 2017), but I stick to FORD as I can use FORSCAN and generic OBDII cable. I also just this week run across the color electrical diagrams for MY17 XF so I spent $20 for a copy on USB drive. It is literally just diagrams and no documentation. It was only 29 MB. As soon as I get my copy of SDD & Cable from British Diagnostics I will feel more comfortable about keeping my wife's Jag happy. I am a serious Hands on DIY with my vehicles. I am finding JAG is a little more exotic as here in states as there is not as many sources for aftermarket parts and such. I am still impressed w/ overall quality but one thing that annoys the crap out of me is the cooling system. It has all these little tubes here and there with them little quick connects that always break and there is no local emergency parts availability. You have to find small barb fittings and heat tubes enough to allow insertion to adapt to rubber hose. Here is a current listing.
Yes please consider upgrading to the Aluminum lifetime versions as posted above. There is also an upgraded Aluminum water transfer tube that goes from the WP to the oil cooler brick. At about $15 it's too cheap to not change. Plus replace the failure prone plastic elbow in the WP with a brass replacement. These are all common on EBay with multiple vendors.
If you really want to drool look at what this guy did! Polished Pipes
.
.
.
you will want to use 2 prongs going into the Water Pump and 1 on the oil cooler block nose. This ensures a leak proof fitment. Also purchase the GEBA WP made in Germany!!! Never have to change again!!!
