2010 XF Oil Change 5.0L
#1
2010 XF Oil Change 5.0L
Car is currently at roughly 93k. So I am thinking about doing my own oil change. I've read that I don't have to go under the car and remove the drain plug. I have a 5.0L engine so my oil filter should be under my hood. My question is, can I use a regular hand pump to suck out the oil? I have this one:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/hopkins-sip...xoCYegQAvD_BwE
Can I use it to siphon out all the oil? If there is a little bit left, is that okay to leave it there then dump new oil on top?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/hopkins-sip...xoCYegQAvD_BwE
Can I use it to siphon out all the oil? If there is a little bit left, is that okay to leave it there then dump new oil on top?
#2
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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Car is currently at roughly 93k. So I am thinking about doing my own oil change. I've read that I don't have to go under the car and remove the drain plug. I have a 5.0L engine so my oil filter should be under my hood. My question is, can I use a regular hand pump to suck out the oil? I have this one:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/hopkins-sip...xoCYegQAvD_BwE
Can I use it to siphon out all the oil? If there is a little bit left, is that okay to leave it there then dump new oil on top?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/hopkins-sip...xoCYegQAvD_BwE
Can I use it to siphon out all the oil? If there is a little bit left, is that okay to leave it there then dump new oil on top?
The top hose only has to cover the top of the extraction tube and you do NOT poke it right down the extraction tube.
And yes the extraction tube method leaves a bit of old oil in the bottom of the sump, more than the drain though the sump plug hole method, but not enough to be a worry otherwise 99% of dealerships wouldn't do it that way.
#3
#5
I just saw the thread thanks. But it doesn't really answer my question? This is my first time attempting an oil change in this car so I'd rather not have to go under the car and remove the drain plug if I don't have to. But I am not sure if my hand pump can do the job?
#6
Just for reference, this is the one I have; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Engin...AAAOSwdyVcXeCl
No going under the car, just suck out the old oil, change the filter, put new oil in and you're good to go.
No going under the car, just suck out the old oil, change the filter, put new oil in and you're good to go.
#7
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#8
Is up to you in the end...
#9
I am a bit nervous because my manual says 5w30 Castro, but 2 out of 3 dealer say 5w20 and to use Castro but the other says to use 0w20 and any brand as long as it is full synthetic. That same dealer said the brand doesn't matter as long as it is 0w20 and full synthetic. Have you heard the same?
#10
I am a bit nervous because my manual says 5w30 Castro, but 2 out of 3 dealer say 5w20 and to use Castro but the other says to use 0w20 and any brand as long as it is full synthetic. That same dealer said the brand doesn't matter as long as it is 0w20 and full synthetic. Have you heard the same?
What year is your car? As far as I know, for the 5.0L they recommend the 5W20, not 5W30...
Never mind, just noticed your said 2010... so yeah, as far as I know it is 5W20 - you sure you have the right manual for the car!? :|
#11
You said your engine is the 5.0L NA version right?
What year is your car? As far as I know, for the 5.0L they recommend the 5W20, not 5W30...
Never mind, just noticed your said 2010... so yeah, as far as I know it is 5W20 - you sure you have the right manual for the car!? :|
What year is your car? As far as I know, for the 5.0L they recommend the 5W20, not 5W30...
Never mind, just noticed your said 2010... so yeah, as far as I know it is 5W20 - you sure you have the right manual for the car!? :|
#12
Just whatever you use, make sure it is fully suntetycs... Group 4 are a very safe bet. But blends of 3 and 4 are just as good.
If you are scared to use anything else, for whatever reason, just stick with the recommended oil, available at JLR dealers only as fat as I know.
Personally I use RoyalPurple because preference, no other reason.
Last edited by mrNewt; 03-08-2019 at 02:20 PM.
#13
Yes, you can. I do and engine is running fine. Also, there are other people out there using different oil brand without issues either.
Just whatever you use, make sure it is fully suntetycs... Group 4 are a very safe bet. But blends of 3 and 4 are just as good.
If you are scared to use anything else, for whatever reason, just stick with the recommended oil, available at JLR dealers only as fat as I know.
Personally I use RoyalPurple because preference, no other reason.
Just whatever you use, make sure it is fully suntetycs... Group 4 are a very safe bet. But blends of 3 and 4 are just as good.
If you are scared to use anything else, for whatever reason, just stick with the recommended oil, available at JLR dealers only as fat as I know.
Personally I use RoyalPurple because preference, no other reason.
#14
I believe that is a 3, 3+. Not a bad oil however; since you like the peace of mind, I would say to get the Ultra if you prefer Pennzoil - heard a lot of good things about it.
#15
Is there a rating chat somewhere I can see to make my decision on the motor oil to purchase? Btw, since this car takes about 8.5 qrtz, how will I know how much I have taken out once it is sucked out? How about refill?
#16
When it comes to oil, people are very opinionated on what to use and everyone has their mind set on something.
That's why I usually recommend to use whatever brand you like and stay with the group 4 ones. If you like Pennzoil, use Ultra is slightly better. If you prefer Platinum because of price, that is not a bad choice either, especially if you just drive the car around without a lot of "spirited drive".
Take out oil - measure how much you've been able to take out.
Then put the same amount back in - fresh oil.
I believe the 8.5 qrtz is for when the engine has 0 oil in it. However, since you will never be able to take the entire old oil out, some will still be in the engine and the actual quantity you need to put back in is somewhere around 7 - 7.25qrtz.
There is a way to see the oil level by following the instructions in the video below.
For some models, when you press cancel twice, it will close the oil level screen; but once you go back to it, it will show the level.
Last edited by mrNewt; 03-08-2019 at 05:46 PM.
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#17
You can find a lot of information online if you search for it. I don't' know if there is any discussions around here where they all come to agree on the same thing... usually is an agree to disagree situation and everyone does whatever they think is right.
When it comes to oil, people are very opinionated on what to use and everyone has their mind set on something.
That's why I usually recommend to use whatever brand you like and stay with the group 4 ones. If you like Pennzoil, use Ultra is slightly better. If you prefer Platinum because of price, that is not a bad choice either, especially if you just drive the car around without a lot of "spirited drive".
Take out oil - measure how much you've been able to take out.
Then put the same amount back in - fresh oil.
I believe the 8.5 qrtz is for when the engine has 0 oil in it. However, since you will never be able to take the entire old oil out, some will still be in the engine and the actual quantity you need to put back in is somewhere around 7 - 7.25qrtz.
There is a way to see the oil level by following the instructions in the video below.
For some models, when you press cancel twice, it will close the oil level screen; but once you go back to it, it will show the level.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_4G6U2Teno
When it comes to oil, people are very opinionated on what to use and everyone has their mind set on something.
That's why I usually recommend to use whatever brand you like and stay with the group 4 ones. If you like Pennzoil, use Ultra is slightly better. If you prefer Platinum because of price, that is not a bad choice either, especially if you just drive the car around without a lot of "spirited drive".
Take out oil - measure how much you've been able to take out.
Then put the same amount back in - fresh oil.
I believe the 8.5 qrtz is for when the engine has 0 oil in it. However, since you will never be able to take the entire old oil out, some will still be in the engine and the actual quantity you need to put back in is somewhere around 7 - 7.25qrtz.
There is a way to see the oil level by following the instructions in the video below.
For some models, when you press cancel twice, it will close the oil level screen; but once you go back to it, it will show the level.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_4G6U2Teno
#18
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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The 5.0 takes exactly 7.25 litres of oil, no need to measure what comes out, just make sure it is thoroughly drained and put 7.25 litres back in. 7.25 litres = 7.66 US quarts.
I have found the extraction pump method to be a little hit and miss as to whether or not you have gotten all the old oil out, best bet first time is to go with the old fashioned sump plug method. Labour intensive because of the need to remove the plastic under tray but at least you can be sure you have gotten all the old out that's there to be got out.
As for which type or brand of oil, there are literally a gazillion threads and posts on this forum and other forums on that subject.
As long as the oil is full synthetic 5W-20 meeting the Jag spec of Ford WSS M2C925-A or 945-A (945-A replaced 925-A a few years ago) you are good to go.
I have used nothing but Aussie brands Penrite and Nulon which meet that spec in both the XFR and now the F-Type with zero problems.
I have found the extraction pump method to be a little hit and miss as to whether or not you have gotten all the old oil out, best bet first time is to go with the old fashioned sump plug method. Labour intensive because of the need to remove the plastic under tray but at least you can be sure you have gotten all the old out that's there to be got out.
As for which type or brand of oil, there are literally a gazillion threads and posts on this forum and other forums on that subject.
As long as the oil is full synthetic 5W-20 meeting the Jag spec of Ford WSS M2C925-A or 945-A (945-A replaced 925-A a few years ago) you are good to go.
I have used nothing but Aussie brands Penrite and Nulon which meet that spec in both the XFR and now the F-Type with zero problems.
#20
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There is no "maintenance light" in the XF, instead when the ECU decides that a service is coming due you will get a "service required in xxxx miles" message on the dash. The message then usually comes up when you start the car, but not every time, and the number of miles varies all over the shop but generally counts down.
By itself doing an oil change does not trigger the "service required" message nor does it clear an existing message.
Once you get the message you reset/clear it as follows:
1. Press and hold the rear fog lamp switch (while the ignition is off).
2. Press the start button without applying the foot brake (turns the ignition on).
3. Release the rear fog lamp switch.
4. Press and hold the trip computer cycle switch.
5. Press and hold the rear fog lamp switch.
6. Continue to hold the trip computer and rear fog lamp switches.
7. The message centre should display "resetting service mode" and then "service mode reset"
8. Release the trip computer and the fog lamp switches and turn the ignition off.
But you have to complete steps 1 to 6 within two (yes, that's 2!) seconds, easier said than done but it is possible.
By itself doing an oil change does not trigger the "service required" message nor does it clear an existing message.
Once you get the message you reset/clear it as follows:
1. Press and hold the rear fog lamp switch (while the ignition is off).
2. Press the start button without applying the foot brake (turns the ignition on).
3. Release the rear fog lamp switch.
4. Press and hold the trip computer cycle switch.
5. Press and hold the rear fog lamp switch.
6. Continue to hold the trip computer and rear fog lamp switches.
7. The message centre should display "resetting service mode" and then "service mode reset"
8. Release the trip computer and the fog lamp switches and turn the ignition off.
But you have to complete steps 1 to 6 within two (yes, that's 2!) seconds, easier said than done but it is possible.