My wife has a 2013 XF with 56K miles on it and has what appears to be a faulty turbocharger as it is burning through oil, smoking and making copious amounts of whirling noises. I have located a viable used replacement and was wondering if anyone on the board has ever had the pleasure of replacing one. Is it a simple detach and reattach or are there precise adjustments or unapparent issues that the DIYer could run into problems with? I have played around and rebuilt a few Jag superchargers but not the turbo model yet. I have all the standard XF service manuals but have yet to find a supplemental section on the rare and ugly 2.0 liter base model version. Any thoughts or prayers are appreciated.

 

My turbo failed last year, with similar symptoms as you are describing. What a nightmare.

Is your car still under warranty?
If so, have the dealership take care of it under your warranty.
Otherwise, just take it to an adequate mechanic.

best of luck.

 

Sorry to say that the car is not under warranty so it will be handled by myself. I will report back with the results once I find the motivation.

Mind me asking how many miles you got out of yours? I only got 57K.

 

It fully failed at about 62k.

I took it in attempting to squeeze the last bit from my extended warranty at 58k miles, when I initially noticed the whirring sound, but the mechanic insisted it was not an issue and would not file a claim.

Then it fully failed just outside of the warranty and was on the hook for the fix, as you are.

 

I own a 2013 jaguar xf 2.0ti. I am the flrst owner and drive my car mildly and do not use it agreslve. I always use Shell good quality gasoline and maintain regularly on a otherised dealer. I draw only a few times may be 30 to 50 km in high speed like 240km/h. I had no warning lamp but my cars performance drop tremendously during my last drive. I assumed the turbo failed. I bought my car to dealer and they checked by computer. Turbo and catalitic converter had to be changed. My car is only at 97000kms. I think this engines turbo are likely to fail early if you drive them to the limit even a few times. Dealer could not say any reason. They only said that it was not easy to tell why the turbo fails.

 

As far as what I gathered from mechanics and engineers over the internet, Turbocharged engines need fresh engine oil to lubricate it's moving parts. It is much better to change the oil every 5K miles (8K Kms). It is also recommended that you have to let the car run idle for 2 - 3 minutes to cool down the Turbo before turning the ignition off. Turning it off immediately will cook the engine oil inside the Turbo.

 

You may right. I changed the oil regularly but always shut down the engine immediately after stop. Especially on my last drive where i lost the turbo I drove the car long distance in hot weather and stoped the engine immediately. That might cook my Turbo. I read the same after the fail on the internet about letting the engine run some time after stopping and than to shutdown the engine. Now I do that and hope I have no second cooked Turbo.

 

This is the one I am referring to from an automotive engineer. How to protect your car's Turbo and make it lasts longer.

 

Just a follow up to my experience replacing the turbo unit on my 2.0 liter four cylinder motor. Not an easy job for sure but is doable by a motivated DIYer. I probably spent a total of about 11 hours doing it but knowing what I know now I could probably repeat it in about 6-7. Here are a couple of guidelines and hints:
1. The turbo/manifold units can be removed from the topside of the engine as opposed to having to remove from the bottom.
2. The catalytic converter and rearward connecting pipe unit must be freed up to move out of the way to allow for the turbo unit and exhaust manifold bolts to clear. I wasted a few hours attempting to manipulated the manifold across and off the head bolts while trying to clear the three convertor mount bolts. The convertor and pipe can be loosened enough to allow the removal of the turbo unit without having to completely remove the convertor though.
3. There are some very difficult access connections with some of them best being made when the new unit is partially installed and moveable. Most notable is the oil pipe connection which must be made by a 7mm socket extension through what appears to be about a half inch gap near the motor mount looking up.

The inability of these design engineers to provide units that cannot be changed out without inspiration from Houdini himself still amazes me. The good news is that it is working so far and seems to run OK although I am fighting with a 0420 code from a dirty cat so that may have to be dealt with if I can't get it cleaned. Hopefully I can get a little better durability of this one than the 57K original. My cause of failure was in fact the oil seal which seems to be pretty common.