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Just curious on your start up procedure. I’ve built other engines it was recommended to prime it before starting.
While I suspect a lot of people just rely on the assembly lube "holding out" until the oil has pressurized, I was paranoid about this so yes I primed the oil before starting. The way I did this was using the threaded hole by the exhaust manifold that I used for a remote oil pressure sensor on the end of a -4AN braided hose - this same hose connected up to a pre-lubing kit which combined with a compressor allowed me to force the oil into the engine at a decent enough pressure to prime it.
No, I've never seeen parts like that, including the chain guides with what looks like a plastic part that comes into contact with the tensioner. Normally I'd assume that the car has had a timing job done and someone's fitted some AliExpress Guandong specials to it, but that at least appears to be a FoMoCo stamp along with a WERS number and I doubt they'd go to the effort of replicating that, although I guess you never know. If I had to guess, this engine was built at a time they had internally become aware of timing issues but not settled on an accepted solution for it yet?
There's been quite a bit of discussion on the 6.35mm vs 8.0mm. As far as I can tell, they started with both, and then at some point moved to 8.0mm gear only, so my suspicion is that they had a limited amount of 6.35mm gear manufactured and stored. I don't know why they'd run with two different systems in this way, but I don't know a lot about car manufacturer finances and why they do the things they do anyway and I'm sure they had their reasons.
If there are limited 6.35mm parts including cam phasers, this means a failing phaser - if no longer available - would require either replacement with a used phaser, which I'm not entirely sure I'd ever recommend given how fragile these things appear to be, or replacement of all four phasers, chains, and crank sprocket, along with obviously tensioners and guides. That becomes a reasonably expensive job I'm sure.
There's been quite a bit of discussion on the 6.35mm vs 8.0mm. As far as I can tell, they started with both, and then at some point moved to 8.0mm gear only, so my suspicion is that they had a limited amount of 6.35mm gear manufactured and stored. I don't know why they'd run with two different systems in this way, but I don't know a lot about car manufacturer finances and why they do the things they do anyway and I'm sure they had their reasons.
If there are limited 6.35mm parts including cam phasers, this means a failing phaser - if no longer available - would require either replacement with a used phaser, which I'm not entirely sure I'd ever recommend given how fragile these things appear to be, or replacement of all four phasers, chains, and crank sprocket, along with obviously tensioners and guides. That becomes a reasonably expensive job I'm sure.
You know the more I look at the 6.35mm hardware the higher quality it looks. It's really nicely engineered stuff. This 2010 has 100K on it and I can see no wear on any of the parts. I have a feel changing to the 8mm setup was purely a cost cutting exercise after JLR was sold to Tata (2008) and that is when the first chain guides were introduced with the aluminium pressure point which caused so many failures. I am tempted to put all my 6.35mm parts back in. I do have a set of used 8mm phasers so could go that way too. Ummmmmm.....
It does look better quality but then it's odd that the early cars suffer much more from timing tensioner problems?
Maybe just more miles on the early cars so it shows up more?
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Looks like it is the one for the 6.35mm pitch chain setup so it may be original. It's a 2010.
That's an aftermarket part, says OEM. not OE. Parts geek sells a brand on many parts called "Genuine" not that its original, just how they brand it to confuse people.
That's an aftermarket part, says OEM. not OE. Parts geek sells a brand on many parts called "Genuine" not that its original, just how they brand it to confuse people.
Yes, I know the brand "Genuine". Tricky.
Last edited by kansanbrit; Sep 7, 2020 at 08:16 AM.
It does look better quality but then it's odd that the early cars suffer much more from timing tensioner problems?
Maybe just more miles on the early cars so it shows up more?
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But I suspect those 'earlier' cars that failed had early 8mm not 6.35mm, as the problem was the steel tensioner drilling the aluminium guide which the 6.35mm doesn't have. The 6.35mm chains are like jewelry :-)
But I suspect those 'earlier' cars that failed had early 8mm not 6.35mm, as the problem was the steel tensioner drilling the aluminium guide which the 6.35mm doesn't have. The 6.35mm chains are like jewelry :-)
Actually my 6.35mm gear had the flawed guides with a pretty deep hole worn into the back when I rebuilt.
Just realised there are two different sizes of head bolts used on these engines, one on the left is straight 11mm taken from 2012 RRS SC, right is 11mm waisted to 10mm taken from 2010 XFR SC. I wonder if the 11mm does a better job of preventing the head gasket blowing?
would all of you agree that I have the narrower chains with longer pitch pin to pin distance 8mm in my XK (2011) as per below pic I just took through the oil filler cap???
I Initially thought the 6.35mm are the witdh of the chain, but this is the distance from pin to pin. In that case the narrower chain is the 8mm one, the one that was used exclusively in newer model years of the X150, right? Please educate me. Thanks!
would all of you agree that I have the narrower chains with longer pitch pin to pin distance 8mm? I Initially thought the 6.35mm are the witdh of the chain, but this is the distance from pin to pin. In that case the narrower chain is the 8mm one, the one that was used exclusively in newer model years of the X150, right? Please educate me. Thanks!
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That is the 8mm pitch chain setup.
Last edited by kansanbrit; Sep 11, 2020 at 04:31 AM.
