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So the arrow on factory pistons on a naturally aspirated should be pointing forward? Is there a way to measure them to make sure because I did mark all connecting rods from the front to back. 1 being the front and 8 being on the rear and the arrow is pointing to the rear.
I was wondering if you could guide me on where they go. Do you know the part number for the gasket for these oilers and do you know what thes other plastic things are and can I get new ones
That's the lower timing chain oiler - from memory, it doesn't have a gasket, and just bolts into the end of the windage tray above the fuel pump cam. You can see mine mounted in post #163 of this thread, in the pic showing the aux timing chain fitted.
Originally Posted by Shaunlacroix
I don't recognize this part, so I guess it's part of the normally aspirated (as opposed to supercharged) setup?
For future reference, if you set a title on a reply to a thread it's pretty hard to read, but I saw it - exhaust manifold bolts.
I struggled with these too - officially it's a "Polydrive" or a "Ribe" head, but the Ribe bit socket sets I got off Amazon would not fit them - ditto the head bolts. If I remember rightly I found the closest Torx bit that would fit (so I guess T50?) and this worked OK.
Especially with the exhaust manifold bolts they don't need to be that tight so you can probably get away with using a Torx bit. I also bought some standard bolts from Home Depot that had the same thread as the manifold bolts but a bit longer and cut the head off as well as a vertical cut in the remaining shaft with a whiz wheel. That way you have studs you can screw into/out of the head with a stubby flat blade screwdriver, which you can use to center the manifold like the special tool in the workshop manual without having to pay for it.
I know this is old but for future reference the exhaust manifold bolts and main cap bolts are all RIBE M9 and the head bolts are RIBE M12. I got a set of RIBE bits from Amazon and they worked very well.
Last edited by kansanbrit; Jul 6, 2020 at 02:25 PM.
Reason: Photos added
Does anyone know for sure whether the NA and the SC bare blocks are the same? If not, what are the differences? Thanks.
A definite difference between the engines at least is that the SC engines have oil cooling jets that spray underneath the pistons - these are fed off a common rail running along the center of the block. However, I'm not sure if the threaded holes for the oil cooler jets exist on the NA block and are just plugged, or if they're not drilled/tapped at all. You'd have to get a pic inside an NA block to know for sure, I've only been inside my SC engine
A definite difference between the engines at least is that the SC engines have oil cooling jets that spray underneath the pistons - these are fed off a common rail running along the center of the block. However, I'm not sure if the threaded holes for the oil cooler jets exist on the NA block and are just plugged, or if they're not drilled/tapped at all. You'd have to get a pic inside an NA block to know for sure, I've only been inside my SC engine
Thanks Dave. Hard to find photos that show that kind of detail. I guess it wouldn't be the end of the world if they weren't fitted for everyday use in a RR if the NA can do without them.
But when you add to this that these cars do NOT proactively warn you when the oil level drops too low
Dave, just found this info in the technical training manual, don't know whether you had seen it. It sounds as if the oil level should be being continually monitored or that was the plan at least.
Yes, I've seen it - it may well have been the plan, as with a lot of things in the manuals (including showing a "Low Oil Pressure" warning in the owner's manual, that apparently has no way of being triggered with the V8 engine) - however, I've never seen any evidence of these messages actually appearing, and it certainly didn't in my car despite the oil level being way below minimum safe level going on how much I drained out, or apparently in any of the other cars this has happened to.
I'm not sure why these messages are listed in the service manual but apparently don't actually appear in reality - if I had to guess, it's for the same reason that you're forced to wait 10 minutes after engine shut-off before you get an oil level reading: with all the oil circulating around the engine it's hard to get an accurate level measurement. They probably found the warnings were too inaccurate and simply disabled them, but aside from going to JLR (who, aware of the issues with spun bearings etc in these engines, might not be so willing to be open about it) it's an answer we may never know.
Probably correct. I just bought an xfr with a head gasket problem, do you think I will need to take the engine out to fix?
Hard one to answer, but "maybe".
"Head gasket problem" always sounds like "potential overheating" to me, which could mean that the (aluminum) block is warped, as these engines don't take overheating well. If that's the case, you'd need to have the block out to an engineering shop to see if it can be saved.
However, strictly, you can remove/replace heads and head gasket with the engine in the car.
I'm not sure why these messages are listed in the service manual but apparently don't actually appear in reality - if I had to guess, it's for the same reason that you're forced to wait 10 minutes after engine shut-off before you get an oil level reading: with all the oil circulating around the engine it's hard to get an accurate level measurement. They probably found the warnings were too inaccurate and simply disabled them, but aside from going to JLR (who, aware of the issues with spun bearings etc in these engines, might not be so willing to be open about it) it's an answer we may never know.
Interestingly the messages are all detailed in the owner's manual of the 2010 I just purchased. Are they shown in your manual?
i think Dave should get a shiny nickel for every view on this thread - would help quite a bit with all the cost he incurred to document and perform the work