how often do you guys change your oil ,i just purchased a 2015 3.0 s

 

If you mean 3.0 turbo diesel Sport it’s every 15000 or 1year. It will remind you when next service is approaching regardless, if last time the service odometer was reset. These engines are sensitive to oil quality. So I would change it as soon as I see the warning or before that.

 

Dennis has a petrol - AJ126 3.0 V6 supercharged. Same engine as in my F-Type.
Lots and lots of experience and anecdotes across this forum and others that 15,000 (or 16,000) miles or 12 months whichever comes first, even though it is the JLR recommended maintenance interval, it terrible for these engines and way too long an interval. Both for the petrol engines (AJ133 and AJ126) and especially the 3.0 V6 diesel. Many reasons but the main one for the diesel is fuel dilution of the oil caused by incomplete DPF regens which can be disastrous.
Many here including me change the oil at half the recommended schedule, so six months or 8,000 miles.
Few do 8,000 miles in six months (I do only about 3,000 miles in six months) so I strongly recommend you change the oil every six months.
It's cheap insurance!

 

I've always been on a 7500mi plan using only Mobil 1.
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar
Current: '15 XF (X250) Portfolio AWD 3.0 (it's aubergine...)
2019 JCNA Class M Slalom 2nd-Place
2018 JCNA Class M Slalom 2nd-Place
Past B: '08 S-Type 4.2 "Satin Edition" (250.06 whp / 259.67 torque)
2015 JCNA Class M Slalom Champion
Past A: '05 X-Type 3.0/AWD Jaguar Racing Green

 

Yes agree 100%!!
Ignore the Jaguar recommendation and drop back to 6K-8K drain intervals.
It's just very cheap insurance.
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I am surprised Jaguar recommended 15000miles for a High performance petrol engine that is inherently subject to a lot of stress!

sorry guys in UK 3.0 S is a diesel.

 

Barring any stunning breakthroughs with oil technology that I'm not aware of, it's my suspicion that Jaguar's recommended long service intervals (along with the other car manufacturers that do it) are largely to save them money on time/materials by reducing the number of services they are obliged to perform during the initial years of ownership of the car. They have beancounters employed to find savings at any point in the company, and they will have done the sums and have the data on the likelihood of having to replace hard-driven engines that have suffered from these longer service intervals during the warranty period.

When it comes to what you do with your car once it's outside the warranty: oil is cheap, engine rebuilds - and I speak from personal experience - are not.

 

Interesting thought. Apart from people believing the service blurb, I always thought it was a big incentive for the fleet buyers.

 

i have the 3.0 supercharged engine how many miles before oil change

 

Same as I and others have already said - every six months or 5,000/7,000/8,000 miles your choice but I would go with every 5,000 miles if you clock up more than that in six months.

 

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...-your-oil.html

Modern synthetic oils do not break down like old oils and are probably capable of lasting the life of the vehicle if topped up regularly. People mistakenly think if its dirty it needs changing.....and interestingly US people have always changed their oil twice as often as Brits. And God alone knows what 12 months has to do with anything. Changing the filter regularly is probably more important.

 

1. JLR themselves now specify 0W-20 for this engine, where they used to call for 5W-20. Probably because 0W-20 oil is a more recent development.

2. This means the oil is slightly thinner when cold only, allowing for better flow through the timing chain tensioners and VVTs on start-up. (i.e. less chance of timing chain slack and slipping).

3. Contaminated synthetic oil is lower in viscosity? Where does this information come from?

 

1- 0w-20 has been there for decades. What dictates the oil grade is tolerances used in engine build and that’s something has improved over time. If JLR recommends a lower grade oil it doesn’t make sense unless they have set new QC criteria for machining their part which does not apply to previously built engines.

2- correct, and thinner oil will slip more easily through gaps in oil pump and will drop the oil pressure. This even accelerates the dripping of oil from oil filter to sump and lack of oil during start up. Unless they have improved oil pump I don’t think this will help a start from cold. It might help In engine with stop/starts function.

3- it depends on nature of contamination. A little bit of fuel will lower the viscosity. However what I meant was a dirty oil which has been exposed to many heating cycles and impurities in the fuel. it definitely has a lower viscosity. Doesn’t need a knowledge, just feel a dirty oil vs new one. There are loads of videos testing this on U tube as well. Otherwise what is the point of changing oil. They could have say just change filters.
thinking again, dillusion is a better word than contamination.

 

Also, don't forget the reason this entire thread started was because my oil level got so low it spun two connecting rod bearings. There are many other documented similar failures, especially in the Range Rover world, and they all seem to stem from the oil level dropping far lower than expected, often without a leak. Might be related to the timing chain guide issues, might not. But when you add to this that these cars do NOT proactively warn you when the oil level drops too low, the idea that you can do an oil change and then just forget about it for 15k miles, maybe occasionally entrusting the oil level to a finicky sensor buried in a menu on the dash that half the time doesn't even want to give you a reading ("SEE HANDBOOK") and the rest of the time seems pretty vague/inaccurate strikes me as risky.

At the very least, reasonably frequent oil changes ensure your oil level is good! Besides, compared to how much I spend on gas keeping this beast running, oil changes every 5k miles barely make a dent. These are not cheap cars to run and - especially in the case of the supercharged V8s - their engines need care and maintenance like any other high-performance car (e.g. BMW M5, AMG E63, etc).

If you want something that you can go for 20k miles without so much as even checking the oil level, go buy a Camry.

 

1. Wrong, Mobil 1 introduced 0W-20 synthetic in 2014.

2. I think you will find 0W-20 when cold has a higher viscosity that when hot so cold oil pressure will be fine.

3. When you feel dirty oil it is from the sump, returned from the engine. It goes through the filter on its way to the engine so the oil the engine gets is not the same as you are feeling.

 

But most cars don't warn of oil level being low, I don't know of any that do. They rely on the owner looking at the dipstick But I think you will find these cars, just like any other, tell you when there is no oil pressure, which is when damage occurs. The reason is doesn't give a level reading all the time is because it waits for 10 minutes after the engine stops for the sake of accuracy. Easy enough to check in the morning before starting.

 

I think you will find if you read this thread that they don't. The V8 engine has no oil pressure sensor.

 

Better to do a engine flush prior to changing engine oil , i live in the uk and always use 5w20 in my car no problems and any problems i have read of on this forum comes from using 0w20 oil its just to thin

 

1-unfortunately it’s not correct. They might have lunched their 0w-20 line in 2014 due to higher demand for better economy because even in user manual for my 2009 toyota 0w-20 is recommended and I think most hybrid cars were using 0w-20 from early days. Viscosity grade is nothing difficult to make. It’s the engine tolerances that have changed to extend service intervals. This news that is dated back 2008 says they are “re”introducing their 0w-20.

2- Unfortunately this is wrong. cold viscosity is Represented by first number (0) and warm by second (20). So viscosity is lower at start to help engine cranking and filling larger gaps due to contraction of parts in lower temperature.

3- whole engine oil passes through filter millions of times and even if you wait few hours there no oil is upper part of engine, everything returns to sump. the only difference between sump oil and upper oil is the metal particles that are generated in past cycle (a fracture of second).

adding to all above, engine wears over time and tolerances are looser than a brand new engine. I don’t mind leaving the oil in my Toyota 5000 more than recommended 10000 but never in a Jaguar or even german cars. You can run Japanese engines without oil for few hounder miles without a damage but never in an engine made in Europe. It’s not because Japanese are better, because they should be more economical to sell the car. Otherwise who leaves a Jaguar to drive a Toyota or even Lexus? More economy = lower friction = Lower oil viscosity = smaller gaps and tighter tolerances. It’s all about the design data set that they start with, not about who can or who cannot build such engine.

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Most cars in this class warn low oil level. You can check this with ignition on and engine off. If it is more than 0.5l below it will warn you to add but it only check the oil level when the engine is off after 10mins. It’s not a live reading.

in terms of pressure sensor, then have a pressure switch instead. If pressure drops below 0.5bar it will warn you but 0.5 is the pressure needed for idle not when you are revving the engine. When started rebuilding my XF engine that spun a bearing due to ignorance of previous owner, I could not find anything that caused the spun bearing other than extremely dirty oil and a leaking oil feed to second turbo that only needed tightening. When you have a small leak that you cannot find, you get bored of adding up oil and damage happens in fracture of a second, a kick down or an start up with few seconds of run without oil pressure.

my next project is to add a after market oil pressure gauge like old muscle cars. It seems it gives you a more accurate impression of when it’s time to change the filter, oil or oil pump.

the whole idea is you can run the engine for 250000 on the same oil if you can monitor oil dilution, pressure and level all the time. I am sure the oil alone can run much longer than 15000 In testing machine but not in an engine with loads of unknown variables. Not sure about V8 but my V6 diesel has a fracture line in an angle with con rod which is awkward. This means the impact force from piston hammers a point close( less than 1inch) to fracture line instead of centre of half bearing. That could be the reason why oil quality will spin bearings in them. however a little spin is not a problem because they don't have a notch nor an oil hole on the bearings.