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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car
Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, and
Torque is how far you take the wall with you
Jesus ****! That’s some serious carnage. I’m surprised that that is all that happened to that sleeve. I can’t imagine how much it would take to completely destroy a piston to that degree. Thanks for sharing that! Note to self, ensure tensioners are properly set once installed! Haha
Holy crap! And I thought my engine was bad….all it had was a spun #2 cylinder bearing!
thanks for th@kansanbrit ! Although, I’m not gonna lie, you’re really scaring me as I’m currently babying my LR4 with 176K miles on it, because I haven’t finished my SC engine build…and have a new 2012 LR4 that needs a head gasket first. (Cause that’s going to become the new DD while the 2010 gets the SC upgrade).
I literally pray everyday the engine holds together and doesn’t slip the chain and blow!!!
I think the lesson to be learned from all this is to check your oil and please listen to the engine!
All the timing stuff failures produce engine noises long before anything come apart. I can't count how many times people have posted video's with nasty engine noises and yet they keep driving? Or they overheat the engine and drive to the next exit or back home. You just can't do that or you will destroy the engine.
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Small update with another addition - if there's one thing I've always been a little bit disappointed with, it was the lack of side bolster support on my XF Supercharged, so I scored these two front seats from a 2012 XFR:
Installed and wired in.
The wiring took quite a lot of work as the connectors are completely different on the seats between the 2010 and the 2012, and I swapped the driver's seat ECU so I didn't have to worry about coding it, but basically everything works (bar a code about an occupancy sensor so I may either have to swap it or there may be a way of reprogramming it).
any plans for a harness/ harness bar now that you’ve gotten these bad boys in? I too have a non R and I debated on either having an upholsterer just add the side bolsters and the extra meat on either side of the headrest that I believe would retain a harness well or just buy a pair and essentially do what you’ve done here. Anyone ever try an F Type R front seat swap?? Those things are pretty sweet looking. But similar to the XFR seats, they are pricey.
Dave do you have the spec build sheet from Mahle for the pistons? Or the sticker spec on the box? Do you know if these pistons are lighter than stock, and were balanced from Mahle? Planning a performance build but starting with this one.
Mahle actually has his order saved and have all the specs on record and can reproduce it if you ask them. I contacted them at one point and referenced someone having ordered a set before and the gentleman told me that he has it on record and can repeat. Also to note, the Coyote 5.0L has nearly identical pistons which are readily available at a reasonable price (half price for the custom ones I had asked a few companies about making). Unfortunately the “Nearly” Identical happens to be that they are actually just a bit taller @ Center of Rod Pin- Top of Piston measurements. However, if you know someone willing, that slight bit of material could be worked off or you can locate a gasket company willing to make a gasket that will raise your cylinder head enough to work. Just thought I’d throw that out to ya.
I'm planning to inspect the rod bearings on my 2015 Range Rover Autobiography (5.0L Supercharged) after finding some fine metal dust in the oil filter. I’ll likely replace them.
My main concern is I can’t find the part numbers for the rod bolts and main bearing cap bolts. Does anyone happen to have this info, or know where I can look it up?
Also, if you know a good source to buy these parts in the US (OEM or high-quality aftermarket), I'd really appreciate your recommendations.
Thanks Will, I certainly will keep you posted - I've had lots of help from your posts over the years so I'm hoping I can at least provide a bit of info on all this in return!
If I have to change the VVT units and solenoids/sensors then it may start to make sense (financially at least) to look into swapping to 8.0mm timing gear after all, but I guess that depends on how much needs to be changed. Once I've finished stripping and hopefully have an idea as to what's failed I can decide where to go from there.
First off, @kansanbrit has done a lot of these, he knows what he’s talking about.
I did chose to go a slightly different route and used ARP hardware, but there are one or two “catches.”
- Rod bolts: ARP kit 201-6001, these are for a BMW 4.0L S65 engine, but they fit ALMOST perfectly. Heads up, there’s a small “shoulder” just under the washer head for the bolt that you need to machine into your rods. It’s not much, and easily accomplished by a machinist, especially if you have you block being machined for the new bearings. If you don’t, you won’t get proper bolt seating.
-M10 main studs: AM 4.000-2LB Don’t be lulled my the -1LB as they’re just the chrome moly version. The -2LB is the ARP 2000 material. Here’s the other “catch.” I had to grind out some clearance in the windage tray to fit the new M10 studs as they’re a little taller than the stock bolt heads and will not allow the windage tray to seat properly.
-M8 main studs. I used bolts in mine, because I was told ARP didn’t make an M8 stud at the time, but I have since contacted them and they now do. I don’t have the specific part number for those and suggest you just call and go through their process of measuring and submitting a stud request. FYI, I used ARP 661-1014, but those are just the chromoly version and torque about the same as the stock bolts…so in that case I’d just recommend going with stock.
-M8 external main bolts. Again, I used kit 661-1007. These are again chromoly and not any better than stock. DONT LOSE THE OE WASHERS!!!! I could never find anywhere to get new rubber impregnated washers to seal the external main bolts, so don’t lose the ones that are on there.
Again, it’s worth calling ARP to see if they have a 2000 material kit for the external bolts/studs as you want all the hardware material to match.
Thanks a lot for the detailed info - really appreciate you taking the time!
I’m honestly surprised there isn’t a standard kit available that includes all the required bolts and studs for this job, especially given how common bearing service is becoming on these engines.
