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Hello everyone! I have read this thread and would like to add to it. I purchased a 13 Jag XJL with the 3.0. A week after arrival, I knew it needed a rebuild. I spent ( months getting parts, having heads and block and machined, and hardest part was getting information for torque and assembly. They certainly don’t want anyone rebuilding these. Anyway, in November of last year is when I got it. And now it runs quite nicely. Here are some photos I took while working on it. One of the hpfp was broken and needed replacement as well. After taking the heads off as a result of a blown headgasket, I noticed bigger issues. Number two piston had a HOLE blown right through its side. The cylinder bore of that piston had a visible massive gash on it. And that needed to be cut down and resleeved. Seeing all this damage, I had to go for a rebuild.
[img alt="I decided to change all 6 pistons, main bearings, conrod bearings, and new headgaskets and bolts. I also decided to do a cooling system overhaul as that is a very big weak point on these engines. I went all aluminum even for the thermostat housing. New timing stuff like chains, tensioners, guides were also replaced
*Side note on the timing on these, the timing chain tensioner arm is known for forming a divot exactly at the point where the tensioner pushes the arm. New ones have steel buttons."]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_0630_3faa16a774a0832aa8feaa758b4713097674c1c2. jpeg[/img] I decided to change all 6 pistons, main bearings, conrod bearings, and new headgaskets and bolts. I also decided to do a cooling system overhaul as that is a very big weak point on these engines. I went all aluminum even for the thermostat housing. New timing stuff like chains, tensioners, guides were also replaced *Side note on the timing on these, the timing chain tensioner arm is known for forming a divot exactly at the point where the tensioner pushes the arm. New ones have steel buttons. I also decide the completely lap all valves and clean out all the ports. It was such a mess from all that carbon buildup. It looked like a brand new engine when it was all completed but it took almost half a year to finish. I put in in spark plugs and changed one faulty injector that did not have a consistent mist spray.
I can post a video of it running and you can be the judges as to how it sounds. I can provide a lot more details if you have any questions. I took a lot of pictures, including diagrams of where everything goes if anyone ever needs it. Thanks for reading!
WOW!!! What a project and congrats she's running fine now! BRAVO!!!!!
It's a pretty big job on that vehicle particularly, Big, big job actually. Are you aware that the front differential is mounted on the sump on that engine? I wouldn't do it again. I would put new oil and filter in it and see what happens when you drive it. Fuel will get into the oil if one of the HPFP is broken and they break easily when being installed if not done properly.
hi @kansanbrit ,
just got to the car. What done so far:
removed belt and started the car-the noise I was talking about disappeared.
Unplugged fuel rail pressure sensor, started again, engine is still shaking but works much better.
The sdd software is showing 0 V on the high range sensor and 2,5 V on the other one.
A new sensor is coming on Monday.
Attached pictures of oil filter. These shiny little pieces the shavings I was talking about.
Checked cylinders with cheap camera I have. Hard to see any scratches because of the camera quality, but can see something similar to what I found in the filter. Picture attached.
Have an update: Bought timing tools. Put the flywheel lock(I assume the is only 1 way to fit it). Removed the vacuum pump, and it seems the hpfp timing is completely off, about 90 degree . I probably can time it back, but really want to know what made it jump 90 degrees.
Also removed both hpfp. They seems to be replaced recently as per carfax history. The followers look new. However, the manufacture date on them is 2021 and 2023. They might put used ones instead of buying new. That explains fuel smell from the oil.
Any thoughts?
Have an update: Bought timing tools. Put the flywheel lock(I assume the is only 1 way to fit it). Removed the vacuum pump, and it seems the hpfp timing is completely off, about 90 degree . I probably can time it back, but really want to know what made it jump 90 degrees.
Also removed both hpfp. They seems to be replaced recently as per carfax history. The followers look new. However, the manufacture date on them is 2021 and 2023. They might put used ones instead of buying new. That explains fuel smell from the oil.
Any thoughts?
vacuum pump can lock up and cause it to hop. seen it before
in theory backwards rotation will do it too from someone removing a fan clutch but honestly doubt it
vacuum pump can lock up and cause it to hop. seen it before
in theory backwards rotation will do it too from someone removing a fan clutch but honestly doubt it
If there was any backward rotation, wouldn’t it mess up the entire timing? I’m not getting any timing codes yet, but the live data looked strange - I noticed that either the intake or exhaust (can’t remember which) on both banks showed a desired and actual position of 39 degrees, which seems unusually high. But I’m not sure now if I can trust these readings. Some of the number didn’t make any sense. For instance 16 V on acceleration pedal sensors and 0 V on the fuel rail pressure.
As for the pump, I rotated it manually and didn’t feel any resistance or locking. I’ll probably open it up to make sure there’s no internal damage.
Have an update: Bought timing tools. Put the flywheel lock(I assume the is only 1 way to fit it). Removed the vacuum pump, and it seems the hpfp timing is completely off, about 90 degree . I probably can time it back, but really want to know what made it jump 90 degrees.
Also removed both hpfp. They seems to be replaced recently as per carfax history. The followers look new. However, the manufacture date on them is 2021 and 2023. They might put used ones instead of buying new. That explains fuel smell from the oil.
Any thoughts?
What makes you say the pump cam timing is out?
What explains the fuel smell from the oil, just the fact that the were used ?
What makes you say the pump cam timing is out?
What explains the fuel smell from the oil, just the fact that the were used ?
The pump timing is definitely off, I can’t fit the pump timing tool while the flywheel is locked. it’s not even close.
As for the fuel smell in the oil, I wouldn’t be surprised if the used HPFPs from eBay have internal leaks. I don’t have any other explanation for how fuel could be getting into the oil.
The pump timing is definitely off, I can’t fit the pump timing tool while the flywheel is locked. it’s not even close.
As for the fuel smell in the oil, I wouldn’t be surprised if the used HPFPs from eBay have internal leaks. I don’t have any other explanation for how fuel could be getting into the oil.
The pump timing is definitely off, I can’t fit the pump timing tool while the flywheel is locked. it’s not even close.
As for the fuel smell in the oil, I wouldn’t be surprised if the used HPFPs from eBay have internal leaks. I don’t have any other explanation for how fuel could be getting into the oil.
I have never used a pump timing tool so I can't comment on that.
Fuel in the oil could be coming past the rings for some reason. When I had a broken fuel pump there was a massive amount of fuel in the oil, like it was really runny and blowing white smoke out the exhaust pipe.
Last edited by kansanbrit; Jul 21, 2025 at 08:53 AM.
Thank you all for the responses.Here are the pictures of the vacuum pump. As you can see, there are noticeable scratches that might have caused the pump to seize and possibly led to the timing chain jumping. Now I’m a bit concerned about potential damage to the rods and cylinders.
I think you're barking up the wrong tree there. That looks just like normal wear patterns to me. Either way it wouldn't cause the main timing chains to jump, so I'm not sure why you think rods and pistons would be affected. I thought this engine was running when you bought it but had debris in the filter ? Sounds like a complete strip and rebuild is necessary to at least check all the timing and see if you can find where the debris is coming from.....
Last edited by kansanbrit; Jul 22, 2025 at 07:52 AM.
I think you're barking up the wrong tree there. That looks just like normal wear patterns to me. Either way it wouldn't cause the main timing chains to jump, so I'm not sure why you think rods and pistons would be affected. I thought this engine was running when you bought it but had debris in the filter ? Sounds like a complete strip and rebuild is necessary to at least check all the timing and see if you can find where the debris is coming from.....
correct. The engine was running, but very very bad misfire and fuel pressure codes.
My hope is the debris came from old hpfp(were replaced a month ago according to online history). The current plan is to fix the pressure issues and to monitor oil filter if new particulates are coming.
Now quick update and a question: I opened the lower timing chain cover and removed the oil pump chain guide, pushed the tensioner. Then I rotated the fuel pump cam to set the timing.
The timing tool I bought doesn’t fit perfectly, no matter what I do, it ends up either slightly advanced or slightly retarded. I’ve attached some pictures. Is this normal? Or could it be that the Chinese tool isn’t very precise?
Also, looking at the chain in the photos, does it look stretched to you? Thanks!
Are your engine on timing position?
Not absolute sure about AJ133 engine, but i can see colored links on chain on your pic in random positions. As far i know normally the engine should be rotated on timing position, where timing marks and chain marks meet their correct timing position?
Are your engine on timing position?
Not absolute sure about AJ133 engine, but i can see colored links on chain on your pic in random positions. As far i know normally the engine should be rotated on timing position, where timing marks and chain marks meet their correct timing position?
the engine is in timing position locked with the flywheel tool. Crankshaft lined up. According to the researches I’ve done the marks are used when setting up the timing. Once you turned the engine they will not come back to the same positions.
The mark on the oil pump chain is off for known reasons. I’m more concerned about fitting the hpfp timing tool.
