Would anyone know the below:
Main journal diameter:
Rod journal diameter:
Rod Length:
Thanks

 

How accurate do those dimensions need to be?

 

just trying to get close thank you

 

The main Journal size is what I'm really looking for

 

Just found the measurements I took on the spare crank I put in the engine when I rebuilt it: the mains varied from 2.7554 to 2.7556", and the rod journals varied from 2.2041 to 2.2045" (but weren't out of round by more than 0.0001") with most being around 2.2042". I'm afraid I don't have a rod length measured.

 

>engine when I rebuilt it

Speaking of which, how's the car running these days?

================================================== ===========
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car
Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, and
Torque is how far you take the wall with you

 

Would anybody here have an old damaged 5.0 crankshaft you are not using you don't need I will pay for Freight to get it shipped to me. I'm trying to find a forged crank option and need this to match it up

 

That sounds like a cool project!
Please keep us updated on what you do with that forged crank.
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Main journals are 70mm exactly. Rods are 56mm. Rod centers approx 160mm.

 

Great info looks like the crank can be replaced with a ford forged 351c. same journal size same centers and lots of stroker options.
Thanks

 

They seem to be few and far between, maybe looking for one myself..... And a rod😁

 

If you do find a replacement crank let me know if yours is damaged I would be interested in it I'm not looking to use it for anything more than having a forged crank made to the stock crank specs my goal is to build a full motor that has Darton sleeved and fully forged internals

 

Mine is cracked, PM sent.

 

To all the folks that have contributed to this thread (especially the OP) - thank you! I'm new to the Jag scene, and am trying to learn more about the X250 w/ V8 platform. OP, thanks for taking the time to document your adventure.

I liked the aftermarket gauges. Would mounting them on the A pillar be an option?

With your experience, if I am able to buy one, I will be extra careful about the oil. For a daily driver with a mixture of city and highway driving, what oil/filter change interval would you suggest? 0W20, 0W16 or other?

TIA!

 

Lots here with the AJ133 V8 (and AJ126 V6) recommend oil changes at least twice as often as scheduled, so every six months or 8,000 miles whichever comes first. Some change it every 5,000 miles or even every 3,000 miles, especially on a car that does mainly short trips and few long drives.
Do not use 0W16, that is extra thin oil for use in hybrids (eg Prius) designed for maximum fuel economy.
The jury is out and forever arguing over 5W30 (specified oil for the earliest AJ133 V8 2009 to 2011), 5W20 (specified oil for the middle aged V8 2011 to 2014) and 0W20 (specified oil for the latest V8 2014 onwards). Use whichever one is specified for your particular engine or one of the later (thinner) specs, your choice.

 

It is my opinion (only) that more regular oil changes make no difference. Oil is really good nowadays. What is important is that it is checked regularly and kept topped up. Here is a video showing the oil I drained from the last RRover engine I rebuilt which suffered bearing failure.

 

Hello all! I know I'm WAY late to this party and this thread is fairly old, but I was hoping to reach out to the OP, @davetibbs for some parts related advice/guidance.

Long story even longer, I'm rebuilding a Supercharged AJ133 from a 2011 XFR that's actually going in my 2010 LR4 (Long story, but fun project). Anyway, I have everything torn down but am having the hardest time finding ARP fasteners for the rods.

@davetibbs I have searched high and low and can't find anyone who even mentions ARP rod bolts for a 4.2L or 5.0L Jag engine. I've even reached out to ARP and they have basically told me they don't make anything. I know you found some, can you please help me to track a set down? Or, is it possible you have some part number I could reference? I really want to geese my engine to the machine shop, but until I get all the fasteners it'll have to sit.

Thanks again for all the input and advice!! You guys have given me a lot of hope and help!

Incidentally, the engine I bought was sold to me as having a "slight knock"....upon tear down, the #2 rod bearing at the crankshaft had disintegrated and the #1 wasn't long for the world either.....I could literally see on the piston where it was slapping the cylinder head! Luckily, I have another crank sitting around....

 

Hey tapps33 - the ARP bolts for the 4.2 I ordered were being sold by a guy on eBay - I'm assuming he had them custom ordered. I'll see if I can dig out who it was (I remember he was also doing parts for the Aston Martin engines, and maybe some Kia parts too?) Although if I'm honest, while the bolts were apparently fine I took him up on his offer to line hone/balance my rods and this took a lot longer than expected - I think like a lot of people in this trade he was poor at estimating delivery dates and there was likely always higher priority work coming in.

If you are unable to source the ARP connecting rod bolts any more, then there are people selling rebuild parts for this engine (often targeted at Range Rovers rather than Jaguar) and worst case, given that the 4.2 bolts fits the 5.0 I'm assuming you could source these from Jaguar (since they sell all the 4.2 internals, but not the 5.0).

 

Hey @davetibbs ! Thanks for the reply!

Sadly, I keep getting shut down by ARP. I've found the company you mentioned above, as well as these guys: https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/conrod-...t-p-40051.html.
I kept hoping ARP was going to come through, but sadly...nothing. It looks like the above bolts are pretty much stock, and that concerns me. I've built too many engines and seen too many people use junk hardware and pay the price.

I even approached ARP with the hardware you used, and they told me there wasn't enough thread engagement for an aluminum block. So, basically, I've ordered the M8 bolts for the shoulder mains and the external M8 bolts, but I'm really trying to find something that'll work for the M10 mains. (insert giant facepalm here) More over, the bolts I ordered are the 8740 alloy, which is stronger than grade 8, but not 10.9 or 12.9....which I think the stock bolts are at least a 10.9. That said, I need to go back and double check the tensile strength between all the different grades to make sure I'm not confusing the measurements.

I'm hoping the machine shop I send my block to will be able to line hone both the block and the rods, rather than sourcing them out all over everywhere....and yes, I'm worried it's going to take 3-6 months to get my parts back because, as you said, there are other "priority" jobs that come in.

If there's anyway you have the contact info for the guy with the ARP con rod bolts, that would be awesome! Otherwise, I'm going to keep looking!

Thanks again for the advice and all the great info you passed along above!

 

davetibbs that link has an amazing amount of 5.0L parts! Prices are excellent too. His SC snout price (150 GBP + shipping) is cheaper than I have seen anywhere else. He only lists the vacuum actuated version unfortunately. Great find.
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