Don't know if this helps you but this is a photograph I took when I had timed the lower chain during a rebuild.

 

It’s hard to tell if i set it up the same way. Here is the picture.

 

It’s been about a week, so I wanted to share what’s been done and where things stand.

I set the timing for the HPFP as accurately as I could. The timing tool doesn’t fit perfectly, most likely because the chain is slightly stretched, but it’s very close.

I installed the lower timing cover and a new vacuum pump. I struggled a bit with the crank pulley. Using a Chinese tool, I pressed it onto the crankshaft, not entirely sure if it’s seated deep enough, but visually it looks fine. I installed a new crank bolt and torqued it to 200 Nm. As per the procedure, I attempted the additional 270° turn. However, I could only manage about 90° before the breaker bar with a jack pipe started bending badly, and it wouldn’t go further. I didn’t want to risk snapping the bolt, so I stopped there. I marked the bolt and will monitor it over time to make sure it doesn’t loosen.

After reassembling all the pulleys and other components, I started the engine. It runs, and I’m no longer seeing any fuel pressure codes. At first, it was misfiring heavily, but after running for a bit, it improved. Right now, there’s still a slight misfire. The codes don’t appear immediately, but after about 30 miles of driving, I got cylinder 5 and 7 misfire codes, along with a random misfire.

I swapped plugs and coils - the misfire follows the components, but it keeps returning to cylinder 5 consistently. Then I swapped the injectors between cylinders 5 and 6. After that, I began getting misfires on both 5 and 6, and the symptoms worsened.

I did a leak-down test using an OTC tool. Cylinder 5 shows about 95%, while the others are slightly better. The engine was cold during the test.

I’m now waiting on a new set of injectors for bank 2 (cylinders 5-8) and will post another update once they’re installed.

I’ve checked the oil filter a couple of times - no metal found so far, and the oil no longer smells like fuel.

One last note: during the leak-down test, I could feel and hear air coming from the oil fill cap, even though the gauge showed only about 5% leakage. Is that normal?

 

I would say the cylinders look good and the noise you can hear is slightly leaking past the piston rings.
I always use my impact gun to tighten the crank bolt and call it done. I'm not sure what the exact torque is but I'm sure it's nowhere near what they specify 😁. You don't really need to use the tool to put the pulley back on as the bolt will pull it on so it must be seated properly.

 

Another update:

Installed new injectors on bank 2, all new spark plugs, and swapped coils over from bank 1 to bank 2. Cleared adaptation values. Smoke tested the intake system multiple times - no vacuum leaks found.

However, I still feel a misfire, especially on cold start - CEL is blinking for couple seconds. Live data shows cylinders 5 and 6 misfiring (occasionally cylinder 7 as well). After driving for a bit, it throws P0430-00 - Intermittent - Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 2). Performance is noticeably poor.

Any ideas?

 

You might get more response if you start a new thread on this issue. This is a very long thread.

 

The filter is designed to click in place with the housing, and it will only click in one way. If you don't click it in, then it will just fall out when you go to put it in. If someone can't put the filter in correctly, they should never ever touch another car again. It's just so idiot proof.

 

The 5.0L engine has no oil pressure sensor or anyway to monitor oil pressure. So it's impossible to get a low oil pressure warning.

And as lotusespritse posted above if you have ever changed a filter on these engines I can't see how it's even possible to install it wrong?
Can anyone post any pictures of a filter that was installed improperly?

Olek all I can say is when I had very similar problems it ended with a catalytic converter replacement. The failed injector or injectors ruined the cat from excessive fuel.
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If you install the filter into the lower housing and then just put the lid on, because you don't know it clicks into the lid first, when you screw it together it will potentially twist the filter and damage it, restricting flow.

 

But you had to take the old filter off first? How can you unclip the old filter and then put the new one in backwards? I know you work on these so you must have seen this but it's still a puzzle to me.
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Exactly.

 

I am struggling to get the filter off of an F150 right now that someone must have put on with an impact wrench, you assume there are no stupid people in the world.😁
Actually I think more likely is that if the bottom end of the filter isn't free to turn for some reason, like it wasn't inserted properly, then when the filter housing is tightened the filter will twist up and squash it. If someone can mess it up they will find a way.....

 

Well you are right about the moron level of the general public! And you have way more experience than me. Sad to see that it can and does happen.
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