Hello,

I am new to the Jaguar world of cars and bought one from the salvage auction a month or so ago and said to "run and drive" and only have "vandalism" (sugar in tank, keyed paint, torn seat, the usual). I can handle many things on a car for fixing them and maintaining them but I think I might have jumped into this scene too quickly.
To compact this story, the car was delivered to me on a tow truck, and it did not start. I had to knock around the starter to start it and then a horrible noise started coming from the engine. A sound of clacking/knocking and then after 30 seconds, the car stalls out. I was able to get it moved 50 yards in a better spot in my yard but that was terrifying and sounded horrible for the car and as soon as I parked it, stalled again.
I thought maybe some basic things might be the issue because this car was a budget Jag, from my investigations. New cheap air filters, spark plugs were cheapest NGK coppers (they were toasted), gas was probably 87, oil was crap and the filter was a cheap one from the local auto store, and the fuel filter was (assuming) clogged since it looked like dirt was inside of it when I took it out and opened it up.
Some other details, I replaced the spark plugs with OEM NGK Iridiums, brand new high quality oil filter and Castrol GTX oil high mileage, new battery, cleaned the gummed up throttle body, replaced fuel filter with brand new K&N one, and currently cleaning out the gas system (lines, filter, tank, etc...). I also checked the supercharger coupling for noise and that seemed good.
I have not started it again yet and I am trying to minimize the starts I do try to avoid further damage until the gas system is good to go and 93 gas is in the tank. I sent an oil sample off as well and got it back today and they said many sad things. "high amounts of aluminum, iron, tin, and magnesium. Could be from both the steel shafts or aluminum in the pistons but with the noise I am hearing, most likely bearings."
Attached is the video of when I FIRST got it started (prepare yourself...) and noise was at it's worst. Again, don't know if it is better or worse yet.

Really my question is I am a suspicion it is a rod bearing. If so, how difficult is it to replace them? Take off the oil pan and there they are or so much more complicated?

I appreciate the advice and thanks for sticking around for such a long post.

 

Can;t see a vid, but these cars are notorious for timing guide issues.

 

As its an 09 model, I believe it still has the 4.2 not the 5.0 which can suffer from the timing chain issues.

 

AHh did not Then oil starvation

 

Oops, sorry about no video. Not sure why it won't attach and upload. I have a private YouTube link instead.

 

Yeah, oil starvation is highly possible from what I have heard from these engines and the person before me was not very caring to the car. It is a 4.2L SC though.

 

Have you tried to read any codes from the OBDII port to see if its trying to tell you something?

 

I would love to but the car isn't on long enough to read codes that come because it would stall out. I did try a few times before and what came back was exhaust issue of some sort (briefly) and then two misfires awhile ago. Apparently, they were pending DTC codes and not official, again, because the car doesn't stay on long enough and haven't been able to drive it anywhere.

 

I'm no expert but that has to be rod knock.

The chain tensioners would be just some clatter with the hood up mostly. The coupler spring would be like a coffee tin with marbles knocking around. Neither is common on this engine and is nowhere near as alarmingly loud.

 

it doesnt sound like a rod knock. They are LOUD and sound like a hammer bashing sheet metal oil pan. Rod knocks increase with RPM in synch. One trick is to disconnect the spark to each cylinder one at a time and see if the noise stops. Unless you have a couple bad bearing but the sound sound change or go away

Change your oil and send a sample to blackstone ;labs for analysis. They can tell you if theres bearing material in there

Can you read the oil pressure? What is it?

could be really bad lifter tick or bad supercharger or a bad idler pulley or ac compressor clutch.

A mechanics stethoscope s great for narrowing down the area where the noise is. That squeaky noise isnt a rod knock sound and is more like a bad bearing in the blower or the idler pulleys.. but that wouldnt explain why it quits running. also, a rod knock wont stall out an engine. It can send a rod thru the block and destroy the crank journal but it wont stall the engine until and unless it kills it completely by ventilating the block.

 

Listening again, could be the SC coupler failed. Take the SC belt off and see what happens. Car should run without it.

 

The 4.2L SC does not suffer from the coupler problems like the newer 5.0L does. Plus it's the old Eaton M112 SC so a much different design.

It's a shame Jaguar had a very solid engine with the 4.2L and then released the 5.0L with timing tensioner problems again?
They fought that with the older 4.0L V-8 too and had several revision on that engine. With all that experience I would have thought they had the problems all ironed out.
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Thanks for your help everyone. I tried replacing the coil packs to see if the noise would go away because I was getting misfire codes and then added a oil additive to help with noise with the bearings but didn't do a ton. I did get the car to move back and forth in my driveway a few yards and that's about it haha. All in all, it doesn't stall anymore and that's good. BUT interestingly, I got the car to drive around a little and I got a "Low oil pressure" message to come up.
At this point, I am in the market for a new/used engine for the car, if the price is right. I am price comparing with Jag dealerships around me and then some independent shops too. Hoping it's not going to be $15,000 or something ridiculous.

 

Sorry to hear that. Sadly given the condition you describe the rest of the car to be in, it can't be economic to replace the engine. They are expensive even used and by the time you pay the cost to swap it out you would pay more than a 2010 or 2011 in good condition is worth...
Might be time to cut your losses and get one in better shape?

 

Up to you and a used 4.2L SC is MUCH cheaper than a 5.0L SC. But the car has little to no value even in good shape so you will have to decide how much money you can put in it?
Reading your thread it sounds like you want to flip it and make money? Good luck.

Plus with the condition of the engine what other problems will show up once the engine is fixed?
Do you want to keep it?
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