Doing the big plastic replacement!
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From: Houston
Doing the big plastic replacement!
I will be posting up what it takes to replace all the plastic in the cooling system on an XF. I am starting on my Gray 2011 XF, but I plan to do the same with my White XF.
Let's just say, this job could break the spirit of the most die-hard DIYer!
Replacing the heater crossover behind the engine was not easy, but if the front crossover fails, it's just a matter of more time before the rear one fails, so for me it had to be done.
And now I am seeing the effects of direct injection on dirty intake valves, so that will add another evening of work to the project at a minimum!
Let's just say, this job could break the spirit of the most die-hard DIYer!
Replacing the heater crossover behind the engine was not easy, but if the front crossover fails, it's just a matter of more time before the rear one fails, so for me it had to be done.
And now I am seeing the effects of direct injection on dirty intake valves, so that will add another evening of work to the project at a minimum!
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Jul 14, 2016, 11:17 PM
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From: Houston
Finished everything yesterday. It was quite a journey learning how to do it, but now that I know how to do it, it will be quick on my other Jag.
It all went together and worked first time. No fuel leaks. No coolant leaks. No starting or running issues. No issues with the belt driven accessories. No issues period.
I am pretty proud of that considering how many things I changed and how many things were disconnected and removed to do the work.
The car runs nice and smooth. It's quieter with a fresh set of idler and tension pulleys and a new belt. Has nice new air filters, cleaned MAFs, cleaned throttle body, cleaned intake valves. Nice fresh coolant running through all new plastic and hoses with a fresh thermostat.
Here are bunch of pics and some video logs I made to remind me of the work I was doing so I wouldn't have any issues putting back together the immense number of things attached to this engine! It's definitely not the simplicity of a 60's small block Chevy!
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g8opmbw2q...2iGH3_Z8a?dl=0
Here's a short write up of my steps:
Disconnect battery
Lift car up
Take off both under panels
Loosen the radiator cap
Drain radiator from drain **** using nickle coin in vice grips
Remove the big 17mm allen nut from left side of engine to drain
Remove wiper arms
Remove main cowl
Remove the cross bar
Remove the secondary cowl
Remove the fuel line cross
Undo the connector for vacuum line on the right side of engine
Remove the fat hose above engine from the air filter box
Remove the air filter covers, remove the lower air filter box
Remove the elbow for the intake in the front of radiator
Remove the intake cross in the throttle body
Remove the throttle body but leave the hose
Remove the 10 screws for the intake manifold
Pull intake forward and remove the electrical connector, then remove from car
Remove the header tank
Remove the hose in the lower radiator
Remove the upper radiator hose
Disconnect the hose going to the right side metal
Remove the hose into the transmission cooler
Remove the 4 screws holding on the thermostat and crossover plastic
Remove everything else connected to the water lines
Pull out the thermostat and all the hoses
Remove the water pump
Remove the plastic crossover for water pump
Remove the rear crossover
Remove the electrical and both water hoses from crossover
Clean the intake valves
Clean the throttle body and the maf sensors
Remove and replace the idler, tensioner, and belt
Replace all the plastic and hoses and reassemble
It all went together and worked first time. No fuel leaks. No coolant leaks. No starting or running issues. No issues with the belt driven accessories. No issues period.
I am pretty proud of that considering how many things I changed and how many things were disconnected and removed to do the work.
The car runs nice and smooth. It's quieter with a fresh set of idler and tension pulleys and a new belt. Has nice new air filters, cleaned MAFs, cleaned throttle body, cleaned intake valves. Nice fresh coolant running through all new plastic and hoses with a fresh thermostat.
Here are bunch of pics and some video logs I made to remind me of the work I was doing so I wouldn't have any issues putting back together the immense number of things attached to this engine! It's definitely not the simplicity of a 60's small block Chevy!
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g8opmbw2q...2iGH3_Z8a?dl=0
Here's a short write up of my steps:
Disconnect battery
Lift car up
Take off both under panels
Loosen the radiator cap
Drain radiator from drain **** using nickle coin in vice grips
Remove the big 17mm allen nut from left side of engine to drain
Remove wiper arms
Remove main cowl
Remove the cross bar
Remove the secondary cowl
Remove the fuel line cross
Undo the connector for vacuum line on the right side of engine
Remove the fat hose above engine from the air filter box
Remove the air filter covers, remove the lower air filter box
Remove the elbow for the intake in the front of radiator
Remove the intake cross in the throttle body
Remove the throttle body but leave the hose
Remove the 10 screws for the intake manifold
Pull intake forward and remove the electrical connector, then remove from car
Remove the header tank
Remove the hose in the lower radiator
Remove the upper radiator hose
Disconnect the hose going to the right side metal
Remove the hose into the transmission cooler
Remove the 4 screws holding on the thermostat and crossover plastic
Remove everything else connected to the water lines
Pull out the thermostat and all the hoses
Remove the water pump
Remove the plastic crossover for water pump
Remove the rear crossover
Remove the electrical and both water hoses from crossover
Clean the intake valves
Clean the throttle body and the maf sensors
Remove and replace the idler, tensioner, and belt
Replace all the plastic and hoses and reassemble
Last edited by lotusespritse; Jul 14, 2016 at 11:21 PM.
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From: Houston
The valves are definitely gummed up, and there was a little puddling of oil in the intake manifold. It's just the way it is with these DI engines.
Here's a before pic and an after cleaning pic.
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 110
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From: West Los Angeles
My XFR is nearing 80k, your pics just confirmed that I will be doing a valve cleaning ASAP! Thanks!
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From: Atlanta, GA
I came from a N54 car as well, that one was waaay worse than this at 50k miles!
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When I was looking at buying my current XF I was also contemplating a Audi RS4 until I read up on the carbon issues they had. That DI 4.2L V8 motor was horrible due to carbon build up. They would loose 100hp in 20-30k miles due to carbon build up.
Run a search on Google for "Audi RS4 carbon build up" and look at the images that come up. It's crazy how bad it gets on that car.
Run a search on Google for "Audi RS4 carbon build up" and look at the images that come up. It's crazy how bad it gets on that car.
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From: Houston
I finished cleaning all the valves last night. The best in the end was carb and throttle body cleaner with a little bit of brushing to loosen up the tar-like coating.
I don't see how any of those intake treatments could make a dent in this tar. To get it off takes spraying it directly, letting it soak, brushing, draining, and repeating several times. After a few times, the stuff starts to break lose.
I got the new idler pulleys, new tensioner pully and new belt put on as well, and put all the new plastic and rubber cooling components put back on.
Now I just need to fill the system with my vacuum filler, and then test for leaks with a pressure tester, and then fire it up.
It will definitely go quicker the second time with my white XF, but it's really not that fun of a job.
I don't see how any of those intake treatments could make a dent in this tar. To get it off takes spraying it directly, letting it soak, brushing, draining, and repeating several times. After a few times, the stuff starts to break lose.
I got the new idler pulleys, new tensioner pully and new belt put on as well, and put all the new plastic and rubber cooling components put back on.
Now I just need to fill the system with my vacuum filler, and then test for leaks with a pressure tester, and then fire it up.
It will definitely go quicker the second time with my white XF, but it's really not that fun of a job.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,873
Likes: 413
From: Houston
Finished everything yesterday. It was quite a journey learning how to do it, but now that I know how to do it, it will be quick on my other Jag.
It all went together and worked first time. No fuel leaks. No coolant leaks. No starting or running issues. No issues with the belt driven accessories. No issues period.
I am pretty proud of that considering how many things I changed and how many things were disconnected and removed to do the work.
The car runs nice and smooth. It's quieter with a fresh set of idler and tension pulleys and a new belt. Has nice new air filters, cleaned MAFs, cleaned throttle body, cleaned intake valves. Nice fresh coolant running through all new plastic and hoses with a fresh thermostat.
Here are bunch of pics and some video logs I made to remind me of the work I was doing so I wouldn't have any issues putting back together the immense number of things attached to this engine! It's definitely not the simplicity of a 60's small block Chevy!
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g8opmbw2q...2iGH3_Z8a?dl=0
Here's a short write up of my steps:
Disconnect battery
Lift car up
Take off both under panels
Loosen the radiator cap
Drain radiator from drain **** using nickle coin in vice grips
Remove the big 17mm allen nut from left side of engine to drain
Remove wiper arms
Remove main cowl
Remove the cross bar
Remove the secondary cowl
Remove the fuel line cross
Undo the connector for vacuum line on the right side of engine
Remove the fat hose above engine from the air filter box
Remove the air filter covers, remove the lower air filter box
Remove the elbow for the intake in the front of radiator
Remove the intake cross in the throttle body
Remove the throttle body but leave the hose
Remove the 10 screws for the intake manifold
Pull intake forward and remove the electrical connector, then remove from car
Remove the header tank
Remove the hose in the lower radiator
Remove the upper radiator hose
Disconnect the hose going to the right side metal
Remove the hose into the transmission cooler
Remove the 4 screws holding on the thermostat and crossover plastic
Remove everything else connected to the water lines
Pull out the thermostat and all the hoses
Remove the water pump
Remove the plastic crossover for water pump
Remove the rear crossover
Remove the electrical and both water hoses from crossover
Clean the intake valves
Clean the throttle body and the maf sensors
Remove and replace the idler, tensioner, and belt
Replace all the plastic and hoses and reassemble
It all went together and worked first time. No fuel leaks. No coolant leaks. No starting or running issues. No issues with the belt driven accessories. No issues period.
I am pretty proud of that considering how many things I changed and how many things were disconnected and removed to do the work.
The car runs nice and smooth. It's quieter with a fresh set of idler and tension pulleys and a new belt. Has nice new air filters, cleaned MAFs, cleaned throttle body, cleaned intake valves. Nice fresh coolant running through all new plastic and hoses with a fresh thermostat.
Here are bunch of pics and some video logs I made to remind me of the work I was doing so I wouldn't have any issues putting back together the immense number of things attached to this engine! It's definitely not the simplicity of a 60's small block Chevy!
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g8opmbw2q...2iGH3_Z8a?dl=0
Here's a short write up of my steps:
Disconnect battery
Lift car up
Take off both under panels
Loosen the radiator cap
Drain radiator from drain **** using nickle coin in vice grips
Remove the big 17mm allen nut from left side of engine to drain
Remove wiper arms
Remove main cowl
Remove the cross bar
Remove the secondary cowl
Remove the fuel line cross
Undo the connector for vacuum line on the right side of engine
Remove the fat hose above engine from the air filter box
Remove the air filter covers, remove the lower air filter box
Remove the elbow for the intake in the front of radiator
Remove the intake cross in the throttle body
Remove the throttle body but leave the hose
Remove the 10 screws for the intake manifold
Pull intake forward and remove the electrical connector, then remove from car
Remove the header tank
Remove the hose in the lower radiator
Remove the upper radiator hose
Disconnect the hose going to the right side metal
Remove the hose into the transmission cooler
Remove the 4 screws holding on the thermostat and crossover plastic
Remove everything else connected to the water lines
Pull out the thermostat and all the hoses
Remove the water pump
Remove the plastic crossover for water pump
Remove the rear crossover
Remove the electrical and both water hoses from crossover
Clean the intake valves
Clean the throttle body and the maf sensors
Remove and replace the idler, tensioner, and belt
Replace all the plastic and hoses and reassemble
Last edited by lotusespritse; Jul 14, 2016 at 11:21 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 311
Likes: 92
From: SoCal
lotusesprite,
Great write up! Would it be possible for a list of part numbers you replaced and an approximate cost of the parts required. It looks like I will be doing this job soon. Thanks for taking the time to ducument the procedure. You are the first to do it.
Great write up! Would it be possible for a list of part numbers you replaced and an approximate cost of the parts required. It looks like I will be doing this job soon. Thanks for taking the time to ducument the procedure. You are the first to do it.
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From: Houston
Here's what I bought from Parts.com
P/N: C2P12808 - BELT-DRIVE Size: 0 Color: 0 $44.24 $0.00 1 $44.24
P/N: C2D21151 - IDLER Size: 0 Color: 0 $45.22 $0.00 1 $45.22
P/N: C2D21156 - IDLER Size: 0 Color: 0 $45.22 $0.00 1 $45.22
P/N: C2Z18658 - TUBE Size: 0 Color: 0 $12.32 $0.00 1 $12.32
P/N: C2Z22155 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $54.98 $0.00 1 $54.98
P/N: C2Z4553 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $37.08 $0.00 1 $37.08
P/N: C2Z4547 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $20.54 $0.00 1 $20.54
P/N: AJ811350 - O-RING Size: 0 Color: 0 $8.46 $0.00 1 $8.46
P/N: C2Z15037 - FILTER Size: 0 Color: 0 $42.07 $0.00 1 $42.07
P/N: C2Z22073 - TUBE Size: 0 Color: 0 $16.13 $0.00 1 $16.13
P/N: C2Z9750 - HOSE-WATER Size: 0 Color: 0 $29.70 $0.00 1 $29.70
P/N: C2Z28467 - TUBE Size: 0 Color: 0 $49.34 $0.00 1 $49.34
P/N: AJ812458 - PIPE-HEATER Size: 0 Color: 0 $48.55 $0.00 1 $48.55
P/N: C2Z5088 - HOSE-RADIATOR Size: 0 Color: 0 $105.30 $0.00 1 $105.30
P/N: C2Z4537 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $14.15 $0.00 1 $14.15
P/N: AJ89664 - PIPE-OUTLET Size: 0 Color: 0 $69.61 $0.00 1 $69.61
P/N: C2Z19929 - THERMOSTAT Size: 0 Color: 0 $40.14 $0.00 1 $40.14
You need to also get a new header coolant tank, new cap for coolant tank (parts.com sells the wrong one), new water pump, new belt tensioner and there's also a little hose that connects to the throttle body that parts.com doesn't sell: Aj813565
P/N: C2P12808 - BELT-DRIVE Size: 0 Color: 0 $44.24 $0.00 1 $44.24
P/N: C2D21151 - IDLER Size: 0 Color: 0 $45.22 $0.00 1 $45.22
P/N: C2D21156 - IDLER Size: 0 Color: 0 $45.22 $0.00 1 $45.22
P/N: C2Z18658 - TUBE Size: 0 Color: 0 $12.32 $0.00 1 $12.32
P/N: C2Z22155 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $54.98 $0.00 1 $54.98
P/N: C2Z4553 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $37.08 $0.00 1 $37.08
P/N: C2Z4547 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $20.54 $0.00 1 $20.54
P/N: AJ811350 - O-RING Size: 0 Color: 0 $8.46 $0.00 1 $8.46
P/N: C2Z15037 - FILTER Size: 0 Color: 0 $42.07 $0.00 1 $42.07
P/N: C2Z22073 - TUBE Size: 0 Color: 0 $16.13 $0.00 1 $16.13
P/N: C2Z9750 - HOSE-WATER Size: 0 Color: 0 $29.70 $0.00 1 $29.70
P/N: C2Z28467 - TUBE Size: 0 Color: 0 $49.34 $0.00 1 $49.34
P/N: AJ812458 - PIPE-HEATER Size: 0 Color: 0 $48.55 $0.00 1 $48.55
P/N: C2Z5088 - HOSE-RADIATOR Size: 0 Color: 0 $105.30 $0.00 1 $105.30
P/N: C2Z4537 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $14.15 $0.00 1 $14.15
P/N: AJ89664 - PIPE-OUTLET Size: 0 Color: 0 $69.61 $0.00 1 $69.61
P/N: C2Z19929 - THERMOSTAT Size: 0 Color: 0 $40.14 $0.00 1 $40.14
You need to also get a new header coolant tank, new cap for coolant tank (parts.com sells the wrong one), new water pump, new belt tensioner and there's also a little hose that connects to the throttle body that parts.com doesn't sell: Aj813565
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From: Houston
I agree.
Last edited by lotusespritse; Jul 18, 2016 at 11:28 PM.
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From: Houston
Just an update after a week of driving after the service -- the engine feels very responsive and more powerful throughout the rev range. It idles more quietly and smoothly. Like a new car again.
And I have great peace of mind that I won't have a water pump or plastic bursting issues any time soon during this super hot summer heat.
I'm looking forward to getting this job done on my white Jag.
And I have great peace of mind that I won't have a water pump or plastic bursting issues any time soon during this super hot summer heat.
I'm looking forward to getting this job done on my white Jag.
Last edited by lotusespritse; Jul 22, 2016 at 06:11 PM.
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I am ready to change the front crossover pipe on my NA11. I have already removed the water pump and all connecting hoses.
If only doing the front crosspipe what steps can I skip (if any) from your write up?
I gather that to accces the front crossover pipe the main task is to remove the intake manifold.
Thank you again for the support.
If only doing the front crosspipe what steps can I skip (if any) from your write up?
I gather that to accces the front crossover pipe the main task is to remove the intake manifold.
Thank you again for the support.
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From: Houston
It took a lot longer than I thought it would for me to get around doing my second XF. I am about 70% done after doing some on Saturday and a lot on Sunday.
I almost forgot what a pain in the *ss this job is! That rear cross over pipe is true torture, and that is if you have the right tools for the job!
I bought a little 1/4" ratchet that turns when you spin the handle and that helped a lot, but still wasn't fun.
I have 2 of the 8 intakes cleaned. Some aren't as bad as the others which is interesting considering they are all breathing the same air and no fuel.
After I clean the valves, I just need to put everything together, which is quick.
It is very nice knowing the plastic is all fresh and new water pump, pulleys, and belt. Will be good to go for another 5 years, and I am sure I will have sold them by then.
I almost forgot what a pain in the *ss this job is! That rear cross over pipe is true torture, and that is if you have the right tools for the job!
I bought a little 1/4" ratchet that turns when you spin the handle and that helped a lot, but still wasn't fun.
I have 2 of the 8 intakes cleaned. Some aren't as bad as the others which is interesting considering they are all breathing the same air and no fuel.
After I clean the valves, I just need to put everything together, which is quick.
It is very nice knowing the plastic is all fresh and new water pump, pulleys, and belt. Will be good to go for another 5 years, and I am sure I will have sold them by then.
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From: Houston
Car fired right up after all the work. No leaks. Finally done with the second car, and I don't ever plan on doing that again! The car is idling very smoothly and quietly, and it pulls like a train.
It is very satisfying to clean the engine compartment really well since access is good when you have everything apart for this job. Vinylex is absolutely amazing for cleaning everything in the engine compartment and leaving it looking new. Doesn't leave a greasy film on the plastic.
It is very satisfying to clean the engine compartment really well since access is good when you have everything apart for this job. Vinylex is absolutely amazing for cleaning everything in the engine compartment and leaving it looking new. Doesn't leave a greasy film on the plastic.
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From: MD 21234
Great work loved every thing you have done the photos are perfect
I just bought 2011 XFR 5.0 SC 70K mils
I have few questions
1. I am planning to change the water pump to LR073711 do I need the larger pipe that goes from the thermostat to the metal pipe above the throttle body? They told me the new water pump is different. if it is what is the correct part number to match the new water pump?
2. I am seeing the original water pump LR073711 is about $290 but I did sow other brand sell for $40 I do know you get what you pay for but both of them have 1 year warranty?
3. I see you cleaning the valves carb and throttle body cleaner but what was the sea foam spry?
4. I did see you changing the idler pulleys, tensioner pulley DO they fail?
Thanks
I just bought 2011 XFR 5.0 SC 70K mils
I have few questions
1. I am planning to change the water pump to LR073711 do I need the larger pipe that goes from the thermostat to the metal pipe above the throttle body? They told me the new water pump is different. if it is what is the correct part number to match the new water pump?
2. I am seeing the original water pump LR073711 is about $290 but I did sow other brand sell for $40 I do know you get what you pay for but both of them have 1 year warranty?
3. I see you cleaning the valves carb and throttle body cleaner but what was the sea foam spry?
4. I did see you changing the idler pulleys, tensioner pulley DO they fail?
Thanks
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Joined: Aug 2018
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Here's what I bought from Parts.com
P/N: C2P12808 - BELT-DRIVE Size: 0 Color: 0 $44.24 $0.00 1 $44.24
P/N: C2D21151 - IDLER Size: 0 Color: 0 $45.22 $0.00 1 $45.22
P/N: C2D21156 - IDLER Size: 0 Color: 0 $45.22 $0.00 1 $45.22
P/N: C2Z18658 - TUBE Size: 0 Color: 0 $12.32 $0.00 1 $12.32
P/N: C2Z22155 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $54.98 $0.00 1 $54.98
P/N: C2Z4553 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $37.08 $0.00 1 $37.08
P/N: C2Z4547 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $20.54 $0.00 1 $20.54
P/N: AJ811350 - O-RING Size: 0 Color: 0 $8.46 $0.00 1 $8.46
P/N: C2Z15037 - FILTER Size: 0 Color: 0 $42.07 $0.00 1 $42.07
P/N: C2Z22073 - TUBE Size: 0 Color: 0 $16.13 $0.00 1 $16.13
P/N: C2Z9750 - HOSE-WATER Size: 0 Color: 0 $29.70 $0.00 1 $29.70
P/N: C2Z28467 - TUBE Size: 0 Color: 0 $49.34 $0.00 1 $49.34
P/N: AJ812458 - PIPE-HEATER Size: 0 Color: 0 $48.55 $0.00 1 $48.55
P/N: C2Z5088 - HOSE-RADIATOR Size: 0 Color: 0 $105.30 $0.00 1 $105.30
P/N: C2Z4537 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $14.15 $0.00 1 $14.15
P/N: AJ89664 - PIPE-OUTLET Size: 0 Color: 0 $69.61 $0.00 1 $69.61
P/N: C2Z19929 - THERMOSTAT Size: 0 Color: 0 $40.14 $0.00 1 $40.14
You need to also get a new header coolant tank, new cap for coolant tank (parts.com sells the wrong one), new water pump, new belt tensioner and there's also a little hose that connects to the throttle body that parts.com doesn't sell: Aj813565
P/N: C2P12808 - BELT-DRIVE Size: 0 Color: 0 $44.24 $0.00 1 $44.24
P/N: C2D21151 - IDLER Size: 0 Color: 0 $45.22 $0.00 1 $45.22
P/N: C2D21156 - IDLER Size: 0 Color: 0 $45.22 $0.00 1 $45.22
P/N: C2Z18658 - TUBE Size: 0 Color: 0 $12.32 $0.00 1 $12.32
P/N: C2Z22155 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $54.98 $0.00 1 $54.98
P/N: C2Z4553 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $37.08 $0.00 1 $37.08
P/N: C2Z4547 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $20.54 $0.00 1 $20.54
P/N: AJ811350 - O-RING Size: 0 Color: 0 $8.46 $0.00 1 $8.46
P/N: C2Z15037 - FILTER Size: 0 Color: 0 $42.07 $0.00 1 $42.07
P/N: C2Z22073 - TUBE Size: 0 Color: 0 $16.13 $0.00 1 $16.13
P/N: C2Z9750 - HOSE-WATER Size: 0 Color: 0 $29.70 $0.00 1 $29.70
P/N: C2Z28467 - TUBE Size: 0 Color: 0 $49.34 $0.00 1 $49.34
P/N: AJ812458 - PIPE-HEATER Size: 0 Color: 0 $48.55 $0.00 1 $48.55
P/N: C2Z5088 - HOSE-RADIATOR Size: 0 Color: 0 $105.30 $0.00 1 $105.30
P/N: C2Z4537 - HOSE Size: 0 Color: 0 $14.15 $0.00 1 $14.15
P/N: AJ89664 - PIPE-OUTLET Size: 0 Color: 0 $69.61 $0.00 1 $69.61
P/N: C2Z19929 - THERMOSTAT Size: 0 Color: 0 $40.14 $0.00 1 $40.14
You need to also get a new header coolant tank, new cap for coolant tank (parts.com sells the wrong one), new water pump, new belt tensioner and there's also a little hose that connects to the throttle body that parts.com doesn't sell: Aj813565
Did you by chance change out this plastic on the water pump. Mine keeps leaking. It is not the hose but the plastic that the hose fits into