Too bad you don't have more detailed info on what they did? Maybe some description of the loose component?
Replaced the entire gauge panel with a used one then reprogrammed it to the car?
I wonder if just the bad component could be changed out?
.
.
.

 

@3kgtjunkie Did you have the same instrument cluster problems as I have in the video? Note: the car is parked, yet the speed displayed is 57km/h.

P.S. Couple of minutes ago I got a call from the workshop where my Jag is and they claim that the problem is with an O2 sensor. I find it hard to believe that such issues can be caused by an O2 sensor...

 

Me too but is the car fixed?
Many strange things can happen for sure!
.
.
.

 

I'm not sure what the actual component we re-soldered initially was. The dealership simply replaced the instrument panel with a used one, and reprogrammed it to the car. It took them over a month, and me catching them in lie after lie attempting to run the service bill up.

 

Negative. It showed the symptoms of a depleted battery (every warning light you can think of going off), and the Jaguar ODB reader I used couldn't even communicate with the car. As I mentioned above, the dealerships will flat out lie to drive that bill up. They don't diagnose it; they just take a guess and throw parts at these cars.

After letting the car sit for a month, they initially said it needed a second key to program it, which they just so happened to have on hand for an 8 year old vehicle. Next, they said the battery no longer took a charge and was totally dead, but they could replace it for whatever the Jaguar brand was. I have a duralast platinum AGM in it that is less than a year old. I sent my assistant to grab the battery and take it to AZ to have it tested. Tested good with 60% charge. I took it home, hooked it up, and got it to full charge over night. OBVIOUSLY the battery was low after sitting for a month. Next, they said they didn't think a used unit could be reprogrammed. Luckily, I do business with the Jag dealership in Naples, and have their Service Department head insured. He called them and told them to they could. Finally, I went into the dealership to press the process along, and the service manager blamed me for the entire experience for being 'cheap.' I explained to her that unlike other customers, I have a moderate knowledge of how to work on vehicles and would not be taken advantage of like they do other customers, Im the membership director for our local Jag club, a member of the British car club, and that if they didn't replace that part by the end of the week (this was a Wednesday) that either I or my assistant would come in there every day when they opened and again at close until it was resolved. Miraculously, the vehicle was fixed Friday morning, and it turns out they didn't need the second key, it didn't actually require 3 hours of labor and an hour of programming, and that my total out the door would be 500 bucks.

Good luck dealing with these fools.


That specific issue has been fixed, however, (I think) the MAP sensor has gone bad or they unplugged it. The car shows roughly 14PSI even at idle, but it clearly not building boost when driven. You can't hear the turbo spool, and I don't feel the boost kick in like it normally does; I'm just driving a very, very heavy 4cyl when I take it out. Thus, it's parked until I can mess with it again. I have no doubt that they retaliated by tampering with the MAP sensor...

 

The MAP sensor should set a code so maybe not too hard to repair?
Have you checked the codes yet?

Note that some engines have 2 MAP sensors so be sure your checking both of them!
.
.
.

 

There are no codes which I thought was odd. I will get after it with a vacuum tester and multimeter at some point.

 

If the MAP is unhooked or bad it will set a code so I would look elsewhere for your problem.
.
.
.

 

I'm getting the P0299 code and small emissions leak, but the datastream shows 14psi. It's weird.

 

That code seems to be related to a bad turbo on the small 4 cylinder engine? Is that the engine you have?
.
.
.