Another ABS Control Module fix.
#1
Another ABS Control Module fix.
Hi Everyone,
Well new to jaguarforums.com and novice on fixing cars. Do know the difference between a wrench and spanner. One was made overseas. hahahha.
Anyways!
ABS Module is kicking my rear end. Seriously the ABS light will not go out!
History:
Car had a old hacked or modifed ABS module. How do I know? Well it had silicon all around the control module as if some opened it before. (refurbished?)
I purchased from ebay for $200 the pump and ABS control module. LNF2210AD. That was on the part number when I bought the car. BTW I just bought the car.
I have left the car unattached to battery for over 2 hours. ABS light did not go out. Even worse the engine light came on.
So I review my procedures for the removal of the ABS module.
I had to remove the hydro stems from the top of the assembly to insert the ABS module. (now I know that is bad because I have air in my brake lines)
Ok so I went over to the O'Reilly's Part store and got loaner Innova 3120LaT computer.
Ok guys, I have a college degree. Computer certifications out of the ying yang. But this computer is crap!
I could not take it into enhanced mode. But here are the codes:
P1637
P1111
Can Link FCM / ABS
Control Module
Circuit / Network
Little Led lights:
MIS FVE CCM CAT EVA O2S MTR. Only CCM and MTR remanded steady after an erase.
Flashmemory - FCCP Monitoring / Malfunction.
Ok help please. Greatly appreciated.
Also is there a link or way to clear out the codes without an mechanic?
Thanks in advance,
James
Well new to jaguarforums.com and novice on fixing cars. Do know the difference between a wrench and spanner. One was made overseas. hahahha.
Anyways!
ABS Module is kicking my rear end. Seriously the ABS light will not go out!
History:
Car had a old hacked or modifed ABS module. How do I know? Well it had silicon all around the control module as if some opened it before. (refurbished?)
I purchased from ebay for $200 the pump and ABS control module. LNF2210AD. That was on the part number when I bought the car. BTW I just bought the car.
I have left the car unattached to battery for over 2 hours. ABS light did not go out. Even worse the engine light came on.
So I review my procedures for the removal of the ABS module.
I had to remove the hydro stems from the top of the assembly to insert the ABS module. (now I know that is bad because I have air in my brake lines)
Ok so I went over to the O'Reilly's Part store and got loaner Innova 3120LaT computer.
Ok guys, I have a college degree. Computer certifications out of the ying yang. But this computer is crap!
I could not take it into enhanced mode. But here are the codes:
P1637
P1111
Can Link FCM / ABS
Control Module
Circuit / Network
Little Led lights:
MIS FVE CCM CAT EVA O2S MTR. Only CCM and MTR remanded steady after an erase.
Flashmemory - FCCP Monitoring / Malfunction.
Ok help please. Greatly appreciated.
Also is there a link or way to clear out the codes without an mechanic?
Thanks in advance,
James
#3
#5
Do the part numbers match for your old ABS and this one? I would be wary of putting a different module on there, most owners just send theirs off to be rebuilt...and if its that sloppy looking, good chance it wasn't done by a professional, and possibly botched the first attempt.
I'd send your old one in to get 'evaluated' (do a search for threads with company name and contact info), while your goofing with the new one. The ABS light will go off when you fix the problem, no clearing it 'at will'. The check engine light, however, can be cleared with any decent, communicating OBDII reader, as mentioned a couple times above. g'luck!
I'd send your old one in to get 'evaluated' (do a search for threads with company name and contact info), while your goofing with the new one. The ABS light will go off when you fix the problem, no clearing it 'at will'. The check engine light, however, can be cleared with any decent, communicating OBDII reader, as mentioned a couple times above. g'luck!
The following users liked this post:
Nicholas Morgan (02-10-2020)
#6
Gameblaster: I'm also experiencing a P1637 code.
The P1637 code can be a simple fix--or very complicated. It can be a CAN cable problem to the ECM, an ABS sensor or module problem, a ECM problem, a DSC problem or a TCM problem. A Brake stop switch is another notorious cause of ABS lights. Wiring problems can be cut wires, shortages, polarity problems, connector pins bent/shorted out . . . .
My gameplan: 1. New brake pads and rotors (needed anyway) 2. Clean the ABS sensors, 3. Pull the ABS module and solder the two places on circuit board 4. Replace the Brake stop switch ($70). If problem not solved by then, I'll take car for full OBDII/CAN diagnosis.
If anyone has any other suggestions, please let us know.
The P1637 code can be a simple fix--or very complicated. It can be a CAN cable problem to the ECM, an ABS sensor or module problem, a ECM problem, a DSC problem or a TCM problem. A Brake stop switch is another notorious cause of ABS lights. Wiring problems can be cut wires, shortages, polarity problems, connector pins bent/shorted out . . . .
My gameplan: 1. New brake pads and rotors (needed anyway) 2. Clean the ABS sensors, 3. Pull the ABS module and solder the two places on circuit board 4. Replace the Brake stop switch ($70). If problem not solved by then, I'll take car for full OBDII/CAN diagnosis.
If anyone has any other suggestions, please let us know.
#7
Gameblaster: I'm also experiencing a P1637 code.
The P1637 code can be a simple fix--or very complicated. It can be a CAN cable problem to the ECM, an ABS sensor or module problem, a ECM problem, a DSC problem or a TCM problem. A Brake stop switch is another notorious cause of ABS lights. Wiring problems can be cut wires, shortages, polarity problems, connector pins bent/shorted out . . . .
My gameplan: 1. New brake pads and rotors (needed anyway) 2. Clean the ABS sensors, 3. Pull the ABS module and solder the two places on circuit board 4. Replace the Brake stop switch ($70). If problem not solved by then, I'll take car for full OBDII/CAN diagnosis.
If anyone has any other suggestions, please let us know.
The P1637 code can be a simple fix--or very complicated. It can be a CAN cable problem to the ECM, an ABS sensor or module problem, a ECM problem, a DSC problem or a TCM problem. A Brake stop switch is another notorious cause of ABS lights. Wiring problems can be cut wires, shortages, polarity problems, connector pins bent/shorted out . . . .
My gameplan: 1. New brake pads and rotors (needed anyway) 2. Clean the ABS sensors, 3. Pull the ABS module and solder the two places on circuit board 4. Replace the Brake stop switch ($70). If problem not solved by then, I'll take car for full OBDII/CAN diagnosis.
If anyone has any other suggestions, please let us know.
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#8
Reverend Sam:
As I understand it, the brake switch connects thru the ECM. It seems to be a pretty pesky little piece--with its two $1.50 switches. The P1637 code also automatically disengages the cruise control--via ECM. Ultiimately, the ECM controls so many functions on XK8's, and unfortunately it's such a high dollar item to address--even if it's remanufactured.
As I understand it, the brake switch connects thru the ECM. It seems to be a pretty pesky little piece--with its two $1.50 switches. The P1637 code also automatically disengages the cruise control--via ECM. Ultiimately, the ECM controls so many functions on XK8's, and unfortunately it's such a high dollar item to address--even if it's remanufactured.
#9
I had a problem with one of my two brake switches. I removed the switch assembly and repaired the switch. On the dashboard display I would get two errors. I forget the exact wording of them, but is was something like "Cruise control not available" and "Check taillights". They would both always come on at the same time. The switches are wired up in such a way so that one switch is normally closed and the other one is normally open. When the ECM sees both switches open or both switches closed at the same time it doesn't know if the brake pedal is being pressed or not. It's smart enough to know that both switches are not supposed to be in the same state at the same time, but it doesn't know which one of the two aren't working. Since it doesn't know which switch is malfunctioning, you get both messages.
If you aren't getting the "cruise not available/check tail lights" message, I doubt the problem is with the switch. Anything is possible, but that would be one of the last things I would troubleshoot, especially since the switch is so difficult to reinstall. (hint: when reinstalling the switch start the engine and press down on the brake pedal. I tried to do it without starting the engine and I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get the switch bracket back in place. I even removed the driver's seat so I could lay on my back looking up behind the brake pedal.)
If you aren't getting the "cruise not available/check tail lights" message, I doubt the problem is with the switch. Anything is possible, but that would be one of the last things I would troubleshoot, especially since the switch is so difficult to reinstall. (hint: when reinstalling the switch start the engine and press down on the brake pedal. I tried to do it without starting the engine and I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get the switch bracket back in place. I even removed the driver's seat so I could lay on my back looking up behind the brake pedal.)
#10
Rev:
I caught your earlier messages about the switch. Think yow fast you'll be able to do the next switch replacement, however.
I still have not figured out how to block down the pedal with a stick--and have enough room to get up in there to move the switch around.
It sounds as if a second set of eyes is needed to look at the firewall to see the holes. You know, working with my wife on mechanics just doesn't work so well. That's why I put the brake switch on the back end of my task list.
I caught your earlier messages about the switch. Think yow fast you'll be able to do the next switch replacement, however.
I still have not figured out how to block down the pedal with a stick--and have enough room to get up in there to move the switch around.
It sounds as if a second set of eyes is needed to look at the firewall to see the holes. You know, working with my wife on mechanics just doesn't work so well. That's why I put the brake switch on the back end of my task list.
#11
Very interesting, I had the same thing happen about a week ago (check tailights, cruise not avail), When I restarted the car later, the problem was gone. Now I know where to look. I guess that the next issue I'll be dealing with. I'm glad you mentioned it, it will save some research time.
#12
Rev:
I caught your earlier messages about the switch. Think yow fast you'll be able to do the next switch replacement, however.
I still have not figured out how to block down the pedal with a stick--and have enough room to get up in there to move the switch around.
It sounds as if a second set of eyes is needed to look at the firewall to see the holes. You know, working with my wife on mechanics just doesn't work so well. That's why I put the brake switch on the back end of my task list.
I caught your earlier messages about the switch. Think yow fast you'll be able to do the next switch replacement, however.
I still have not figured out how to block down the pedal with a stick--and have enough room to get up in there to move the switch around.
It sounds as if a second set of eyes is needed to look at the firewall to see the holes. You know, working with my wife on mechanics just doesn't work so well. That's why I put the brake switch on the back end of my task list.
Here's the trick, grab 2 bamboo skewers from the kitchen and pass each through the holes from the topside and have her hold them. From below, you can easily feel your way to the holes without seeing them She can start the nuts to hold it in place. The switch will slide into place around the brake pedal "trigger", it dosen't have to move very much at all to make clearance. Mine went in the first time without my drama drama.
#13
I did the swap in less than 1/2 hour with my reluctant girlfriend.
Here's the trick, grab 2 bamboo skewers from the kitchen and pass each through the holes from the topside and have her hold them. From below, you can easily feel your way to the holes without seeing them She can start the nuts to hold it in place. The switch will slide into place around the brake pedal "trigger", it dosen't have to move very much at all to make clearance. Mine went in the first time without my drama drama.
Here's the trick, grab 2 bamboo skewers from the kitchen and pass each through the holes from the topside and have her hold them. From below, you can easily feel your way to the holes without seeing them She can start the nuts to hold it in place. The switch will slide into place around the brake pedal "trigger", it dosen't have to move very much at all to make clearance. Mine went in the first time without my drama drama.
#14
Very interesting, I had the same thing happen about a week ago (check tailights, cruise not avail), When I restarted the car later, the problem was gone. Now I know where to look. I guess that the next issue I'll be dealing with. I'm glad you mentioned it, it will save some research time.
And... yes, I made a video of the repair, but there was so much cussing and griping and yelling that I deleted the video. Seriously! I just couldn't get the two studs to go into the two holes while at the same time getting the little finger that sticks out from the side of the brake pedal lever to go into the notch in the switch assembly.
#16
The following 5 users liked this post by Gus:
Bamaman (03-10-2011),
EZDriver (08-01-2018),
Fla Steve (03-14-2011),
Gameblaster1 (03-11-2011),
piju1945 (10-19-2015)
#18
Reverend Sam:
As I understand it, the brake switch connects thru the ECM. It seems to be a pretty pesky little piece--with its two $1.50 switches. The P1637 code also automatically disengages the cruise control--via ECM. Ultiimately, the ECM controls so many functions on XK8's, and unfortunately it's such a high dollar item to address--even if it's remanufactured.
As I understand it, the brake switch connects thru the ECM. It seems to be a pretty pesky little piece--with its two $1.50 switches. The P1637 code also automatically disengages the cruise control--via ECM. Ultiimately, the ECM controls so many functions on XK8's, and unfortunately it's such a high dollar item to address--even if it's remanufactured.
I was only able work on the front end of the XK8 this weekend.
Front brakes are new and resurfaced the rotors.
Clean Sensor attached to the ABS.
Did not have time to try ABS reset from Gus. Will try that after work tomorrow. Kida and wife are sick.
#19
Man on my 97 XK8 I had several similar issues with my car, warning lights for all kinds of things. Cruise control light on the button would flash for no good reason, failure this, failure that, abs, gearbox fault. 97 known for ECM issues. Soooo on a whim I sent out the ECM, rebuilt for 400 bucks, car been running fine for months now since that fix and it is drien fairly often. Just a thought. Don't know what year your car is.
#20
Don't know what year your car is
Man on my 97 XK8 I had several similar issues with my car, warning lights for all kinds of things. Cruise control light on the button would flash for no good reason, failure this, failure that, abs, gearbox fault. 97 known for ECM issues. Soooo on a whim I sent out the ECM, rebuilt for 400 bucks, car been running fine for months now since that fix and it is drien fairly often. Just a thought. Don't know what year your car is.
My Jag is a XK8 2002. I will keep that in mind. I have not tried everything. Work it keeping from taking enough time to look at the problem. However, I have check the fuses and replaced the module to no effect. I have ABS light on with Trac and ACS warnings.
Thanks!