When I pressing he door handle to lock the car, the drivers side lock won't work. The car will also beep twice.

However if I push on the lock from the inside to lock it, it'll work. Seems like it's just getting stuck. Easy fix?

 

Is the key fob in the car with you when you try and lock the doors from the inside? Using the handle means your exiting the car, with the fob still in the car (locking the keys in the car) = 2 beeps to let you know something is wrong. Pressing the dash lock button says your staying in the car but want the doors locked.

 

When I push the lock manually, it'll be while I'm driving. It pushes into lock position

When I lock the car from the outside, I get the 2 beeps (sometimes) I'm assuming it's because of the lock. Nothing else is open. Not sure how else to diagnose it.

I don't get any door or trunk or hood open messages on the dash

 

Read your owners manual.

 

The double beep thing usually means the alarm won't set because it thinks something is open. You may not notice a message on the dash. Just replaced the hood switch on my Land Rover for pretty much similar problem - alarm would randomly go off and sometimes remote locking would cause the double beep. I'm told over time the spring in the switch weakens - wouldn't surprise me if the Jag had a similar trait given their shared electronics.

 

My car developed a similar problem a few months ago, and now locking from outside the car (single or double, makes no difference) is completely random. I now get any and all combinations of the following:
- single beep, mirrors fold in, interior lights turn off immediately (ie works perfectly)
- as above, but interior lights don't turn off for 20 seconds
- single beep, followed a few seconds later by a double beep, mirrors don't fold (but car still appears to be locked)
- as above, but mirrors do fold
Most common is the double beep and mirrors not folding.
Sometimes, but not always, if I immediately open a door (any door) then try again it works as it should.
As I said above it is completely random as to which combination of these things it does or doesn't do.
It's not the battery, I put a new battery in a few months ago and I hook up a trickle charger on average once every two weeks.
I suspect I have a duff sensor in one of the door locks which acts up totally at random.

 

It sounds like the central locking solenoid in the drivers door is failing. The double beep tells you it didn't lock. So you can still physically lock it but it won't lock automatically.

We had the same on our Land Rover. Quite common. Straightforward fix although I'm not sure how easy it is to access in the XF.

 

Without diagnostics, it's guesswork and speculation. Locking component and harness faults set 'B' codes but it requires dealer level diagnostics to read these.

Jaguar designers don't do anything new unless they have to and the XF door locking is a similar design to other models.

Each door latch motor assembly has micro-switches for locking, unlocking and door ajar warning. Motors provide for the central door locking and double locking feature. The micro-switches have been found to wear on other Jaguar models - first working only intermittently before finally failing completely.

If I were to speculate, I'd suspect micro-switches but I'd seriously consider diagnostics to pinpoint the source of the trouble before going on a random parts fest.

Graham

 

grrr...i guess i'll just add it to the list of things i need fixed, the joys of jag ownership

 

Does the double beeping happen after a second or so from the other doors locking (rather than instantly, which it would if a door was ajar)?

AFAIK the X250 XF uses the same locking assembly as the X351 XJ.

There is a known issue with those assemblies where the locking solenoid does not activate, and the delayed double beep is the car telling you one of the locks did not engage. If you move the key out of range of the car and then open the suspect door it will open and the alarm will go off.

The fix is to replace the assembly. It's not hard to do this at home if you are out of warranty and the part is not that expensive, but you will need a window puller bar to release the window glass to get to the assembly.

On the X351 no DTCs are logged, but it can be diagnosed by directly powering the solenoid and observing that it does not engage.

 

You might have one sticking door lock actuator

 

xdave - its EXACTLY how you describe it! the double beeps are delayed. and then if i move the key and open the door, the alarm will go off.

nasa25 - there is a possibility its sticking. when i push the lock with my finger, it requires a little more force than im expecting.

what would you recommend? spraying some wd40 in the handle?

 

In my case (similar age X351) it was a mechanical failure. The latch worked fine (no more force required than any other door, and the cable pulling part that operates the internal locking latch worked fine, but after opening the failed assembly the part that engages behind the latch to prevent it from being opened until it is withdrawn had broken on one side and was rocking at a bit of an angle. That seemed to fit the symptom which was that it worked some of the time and progressively got worse and worse as it wore more and more. It could have been glued back but would always have been a failure point.

A replacement assembly was only £102 from my local dealer, and is the same superseded parts for all X351 XJ, X250 XF (not the X260) and the later XKs. It took an afternoon to fit myself, or about 4h labour at a dealer. I was told that the superseded part was introduced across all the models to resolve precisely the issue I had, and that they had replaced a handful themselves. It was always the driver door, which suggests normal wear coupled with more frequent slamming of the door causes the part to rock out of alignment and then break. If that is the same fault with yours then WD40 is unlikely to be a long term fix but may help in the short term. However you would need to remove the existing assembly from the car to open it and get to the part anyway, at which point you've already spent the labour cost to get to it and may as well replace it completely.

You are showing as in the US (single locking, LHD), and from your description of using the button on the handle to lock the car it has passive entry. That would make your replacement part C2D5640 for up to U65411 or C2D47285 afterwards for the LH front door. That part is actually cheaper than the double locking version I needed and would cost about £90 over here if buying out of warranty. If that spec is wrong I can get you the correct part number, or your dealer can obviously look it up if you are using them to supply it.

 

Might sound odd but my drivers side rear door lock actuator sticks from time to time and the car won't lock so whenever that happens I manually lock and unlock the door around 30 times and it sorts it lol

 

you know what....i really thing thats the issue i have. because i sprayed the lock/door pull with WD40 and kept opening and closing a bunch of times....and eventually it worked....but then it started sticking again.

what happens is when the lock is fully in the unlock position, when i click lock it will only go 1/2 way.

I need to find time this weekend to take apart the door card and clean everything.

 

It could be:
- some problems with driver door lock (scorched contacts) needs changing;
- need to reprogram Drivers Door Module;
- check driver door cable it could be damaged
- needs check wirings near connector housing for driver door lock.

A week ago solved the same problem with mine vehicle.

 

when the lock is in the fully unlock position and i lock the car, the lock will move 1/2 way....as if its getting stuck......would the fact that it's moving eliminate the damaged module/ contacts suggestions?

I still havent had time to take off the door card, but im really hoping its just sticking somewhere

 

In most cases it's driver's door lock, needs to replace. In any case you'll need to take off the driver's door card and check the cable to interior door handle.

 

Do you mean the interior latch, or the door latch?

The door latch has three positions - unlatched, safety latched and fully latched.

Unless you have soft closing which operates the final part between safety and fully latched, the door latch doesn't close itself when you press the lock button (I don't think soft closing was an option on a 2011 XF). Any brief movement may be the result of the locking solenoid activating.

The door ajar switch contacts are only closed when the door latch moves into the fully closed position. If the door ajar switch is open then the car will beep twice immediately upon pressing lock. That is not your described symptom.

The door latch operates the internal latch by means of a cable (think of a bike brake), which is pushed back towards the door via a pivoting lever on the side of the assembly. You can disconnect that cable at either end without affecting any switches if you want to test for a stiff interior latch, however I don't think that is the problem because it does not match. Your symptom is that the door lock switch does not close after the car signals the door to lock, which triggers the double beep about a second after the other doors lock. There are a few reasons why that switch does not close, but with the door ajar switch working correctly (which indicates the latch is fully latched with the door closed) then the most common is the one Jag revised the latch assembly to resolve - the locking mechanism wears unevenly and jams. If that is the case replacement is the long term fix.

You may find the attached documents helpful. Note that you must not skip any steps in the removal process. Unfortunately you do need to remove the window glass and regulator otherwise you will not be able to remove the latch assembly from the door (it physically won't fit). You will also need to drill out a single rivet holding the latch to the latch bracket, and replace when refitting.

 

thank you so much Dave!

good news is that the problem was just something making the interior door handle lock stuck. after drowning it in WD40 and locking/unlocking a million times, it seems to work perfectly now! fingers crossed it doesnt happen again