XF and XFR ( X250 ) 2007 - 2015

Fuel Rail or injector/coil/spark plug?

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Old Sep 15, 2025 | 10:58 AM
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Default Fuel Rail or injector/coil/spark plug?

Hey jag guru's,

I've a 2011 XF with the non supercharged V8 5.0L engine (USA LHD with 45k miles), and about 3 years ago, I had issues, which caused me to replace all of the 2nd bank (drivers side (cylinders 2, 4, 6, 8)) injectors/coils/spark plugs.

Now 3 years, and about 5k miles later I'm encountering the same issues, but for 1 cylinder (P0302 Cylinder misfire & P0316 Engine misfire on 1st 1,000 revolutions).

Could it be the coil/plug or injector?, or could it be the fuel rail to that bank?

Since these items were replaced on 5k miles ago, and the issues are recurring on the same cylinder (just the 1 this time, last time for 3) I'm finding it hard to imagine that one of those components has failed, which is why I'm thinking of the fuel rail.

Is the fuel rail easy to clean?, or is it a replacement job?




 
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Old Sep 15, 2025 | 11:32 AM
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WHAT ignition coils? Most of the aftermarket are trash, work so-so when new, and fail pretty quickly.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2025 | 12:38 PM
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I bought from partsgeek.

2010-2015 Jaguar XF Ignition Coil - Bosch AJ811378
 
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Old Sep 15, 2025 | 12:48 PM
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Of the ones listed on partsgeek, the Bosch is the only one that seems likely to be OK. I've seen many failures with the other ones they list currently. I've no experience with Bosch, didn't realize they sold one for that application.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2025 | 01:20 PM
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Note: Lot of counterfeit products on the market. Even box might have all the holograms etc still somebody in deliverychain can have been aceess to the shipment and changed products inside of OEM boxes.
There are some threads on this forum about issues with them.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2025 | 04:11 PM
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Is your engine direct injection. If so i would maybe suspect carbon build up or slightly sticking rings. I have an 06 s type r. Different engine totally but had a similar issue on start up. Last effort was motor flush and problem solved
 
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Old Sep 16, 2025 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Vasara
Note: Lot of counterfeit products on the market. Even box might have all the holograms etc still somebody in deliverychain can have been aceess to the shipment and changed products inside of OEM boxes.
There are some threads on this forum about issues with them.
To that end, I'm running some tests on the coils, by switching the coils on Cylinders 2 and 4, and see if the issue moves to Cylinder 4. I'll also check the plugs before pulling the fuel injector.

If I replace the fuel I'll try to clean to fuel rail as well. To do that properly I'll need to fully pull off the rail. Can I do any cleaning with the rail still attached?
 
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Old Sep 16, 2025 | 11:01 AM
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With direct inject engines an cleaness is highly recomment when working with any part of fuel system after the filter.
I would remove the fuelrails for cleaning up, since any particle got loose and find its way to the injector can seize it up.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2025 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Vasara
With direct inject engines an cleaness is highly recomment when working with any part of fuel system after the filter.
I would remove the fuelrails for cleaning up, since any particle got loose and find its way to the injector can seize it up.
Thanks. That makes since.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2025 | 02:13 PM
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So I kind of know that the plugs and injectors on the other cylinders should be fine, as the plug looks fine, and I'll replace the injector on Cylinder 2.

Can I just pull the one injector while leaving the others in place (maybe just replace the blue o-ring)? Will their well torqued bolts stop damage to the teflon o-ring when I pull off the fuel rail?

My hope is that I can clean out the fuel rail, and only replace the one injector. Thoughts?

Also, the bosch coils separated from their stems when I pulled them out. Can I just re-attached the 2 pieces when I put it back together (it seems to be designed that way)?, or do I need new coils?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2025 | 04:00 PM
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I'm trying to depressurize the fuel lines and am encountering an issue.

The manual shows F25 fuse (25A) in the luggage compartment is the one that control the electric pump.

I removed the fuse as per the fuse diagram, however the engine is not stopping due to fuel starvation while I'm running it, with the fuse removed.

Any advice? The engine should die, right? I'm quite sure l removed the correct fuse.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2025 | 04:36 PM
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I'm assuming the hi pressure mechanical pumps are still able to pull enough fuel through the electric pump that is powered by the fuse.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2025 | 05:45 PM
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So do you think the pressure in lines is reduced?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2025 | 06:02 PM
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NO, the only purpose of the electric pump in the tank is to ensure feed to the mechanical pumps on the engine. The fact that it is running means there is high pressure in the Direct Injection System. You can't push fuel out a direct injector without high pressure as it is fighting combustion pressures. Even though my business sells Jaguar parts, I don't know the procedure to depressurize the system. I just know how the system functions, or rather how a Direct Injection system has to function. You need a manual or help from a tech.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2025 | 07:01 AM
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I just crack a fitting in the engine compartment and let a bit of fuel squirt out.
Simple and quick. Jaguar makes a big deal out of this because of the 2000+ psi pressures.
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Old Sep 28, 2025 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by clubairth1
I just crack a fitting in the engine compartment and let a bit of fuel squirt out.
Simple and quick. Jaguar makes a big deal out of this because of the 2000+ psi pressures.
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I did that finally, and there was no pressure in the line, and no fuel came out. Quite weird as the engine was running prior.

Now trying the get the injector rail off. It's not behaving itself, and I don't know where to apply pressure (leverage) to get it off. I've released to clips to the fuel system electrics (except for the ones around cylinder 8, as I can't see them), so that is pretty loose. Advice anyone?

I''m so close to actually replacing the injector and cleaning the fuel rail, I can taste it.... just gotta get the rail off.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2025 | 07:19 AM
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The fuel rail must be pulled straight off the injectors.

It's a bit hard because 4 O-rings are holding the injectors to the fuel rail. It's difficult to grab the fuel rail because of access. I wrap a rag around the rail in two places so I can get my hands back away from the engine and apply some force.
I do that in two places as indicated below. The rag is soft so it gives and now you can use both hands and apply equal force on the rail instead of pulling in one spot.





IF your lucky like I was in the above picture. ALL 4 injectors popped out with the fuel rail! Yes I did not even use the JLR slide hammer!
So I recommend to pull the rail BEFORE you remove those metal clips. Just to give you a chance of getting the injectors out with the rail. IF this happens count yourself lucky! You probably won't get all 4 to come out but 1 or 2 might.

There have been posts on why some injectors pull right out and why others take hundreds of hits with the slide hammer. No real answer from what I can find but there is a relationship based on how hard the car is driven. If the car is just idles around the injectors will be Carbon locked in the head pretty good. If driven hard there will be less Carbon build up. I use the 600+ HP I have all the time. Ran the Texas Mile at 174 mph. Many full throttle runs for the shear joy of the 5.0L engine pulling like a banshee! It's just so very additive!

Both of my injector rails pulled all 4 injectors out by hand on both sides of the engine. Car was a 2014 XJR with around 62K miles.

Do be aware of counterfeit parts/injectors. I got burned badly and cost me weeks and hundreds of dollars.
I have an extensive thread with pictures documenting the entire fiasco. If your interested.

One request?
When you post questions pictures are a huge help. Pictures of your coil problem would have be worthwhile.
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Old Sep 29, 2025 | 11:01 AM
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Thanks @clubairth1, I did finally get the fuel rail off, but unfortunately without any of the injectors

What did you use to clean the fuel rail?, and how did you clean it? Just use a wire to ensure the individual injector holes are open? How did you flush it?
 
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Old Sep 30, 2025 | 06:51 AM
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I did not flush any of the fuel system. Nothing indicated that I should?
I am still puzzled why these cars only have a filter in the tank and there are no instructions or recommendations about what mileage it should be changed? I have the filter on my bench so it is available.

Now in my injector thread I did remove the plugs and injectors and then hooked compressed air up to the spark plug holes while using brass brushes on my cordless drill to clean the injector ports. The air pushed all the crap out of the cylinders rather than just dropping all that on top of the pistons. Not sure it was needed but with all the problems I had I figured why not.
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Old Sep 30, 2025 | 11:04 AM
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I checked the galleries in the fuel rail, and they're all a large enough diameter (2-3mm est) that nothing should ever foul them. I have been advised by others to clean them with a craft pipe cleaner, which I did, because you never know.

Good point on the fuel filter.

Now trying to get the fuel rail back on, Fun, fun in that tight space. Patience is the key with all of this work.
 
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