My "push/pop" gas cap flap is not working so I can't get to the gas cap to fill the tank. It doesn't seem to be "popped" out for me to push it in and then have it pop it open.
Has this happened to anyone else?
Thanks

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Current Hers: '13 Lexus ES350
Current Mine: '15 Jaguar XF (X250) Portfolio AWD
Jaguar - making mechanics out of customers since 1935

 

Yes, common issue unfortunately. You will need to pull rear fender's inner mudguard in order to gain access to the locking mechanism. Not too much space in there, but you should be able to operate the lever so it pulls free of the lock. Be careful, stuff breaks easily.
Once you can open the gas cap you have a choice of just disabling the locking mechanism, or replace the actuator and then possibly also the rear fuse box.
Before you start replacing parts I therefore strongly suggest to check if there are any errors logged in the rear fuse box related to the flap mechanism being overloaded. This will basically shut down the driver for the actuator, which to my knowledge cannot be undone.
I fixed my gas cap by replacing the actuator (which was actually not bad, just locked up from dirt) and then also the rear fuse box with a used one (needs SDD programming)

Thanks,
Chris

 

>disabling the locking mechanism,
Thanks buy mine is manual, not electronic. You push the edge of the flap inward, "feel" a click and the flap pops open.
To close close the flap push it down and 'feel" a click, release the pressure on the flap and it relaxes into the closed position.

 

Oh, it's a 2015 XF 3.0/AWD USA version.

 

Yeah, same on mine. Need to push it in to open. Yet there is still a pin that locks the cap when the car is locked, which prevents you now from pushing it in enough to 'click', right?

Chris

 

Mine is ornery at times. Colder weather is not helpful. I’ve been prodding the backside and pushing the frontside and it comes undone eventually. Been thinking about disabling it.

 

Thats how it starts. Its probably dirt and water that kills them. Since it is still moving you may want to try to clean and lubricate that little lock pin. The rest of the mechanism should be cleaned as well, but is only accessible when removing the inner fender mud guard. If you are unsure what I'm talking about, lock the car whilst the fuel cap is open, you should see the lock pin now.

To disable you could temporary put a screw into the little catch on the flap, so the lock pin cannot go in. You could also disconnect the actuator cable but I believe that trows an error and does not guarantee that the lock pin really stays open.
Chris

 

>prodding the backside and pushing the frontside and it comes undone eventually
I've spayed the sh*t out of it with WD40, and have been prodding/pushing and have gotten it open

>put a screw into the little catch on the flap, so the lock pin cannot go in
Have you actually tried that? Ann side effects other than the flap popping open unexpectedly?

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You dreamed of a big star -
He played a mean guitar -
He loved to drive his Jaguar...

So welcome to the machine

 

This linked thread describes the process of changing it. I blocked the hole on the flap on my car for a couple of days ( while I waited for the parts to arrive ) with a small plastic plug ( smooth topped ), it just needs to prevent the lock pin going into the hole. The flap will still click in/out as normal, except that it can be opened when the car is locked.

There was a fault code logged, but no problem with the rear junction box, I just replaced the fuel bowl/actuator and turning the ignition on and off again as enough to get it working again - no need to clear the fault code. Perhaps if you leave it faulty for a while the rear smart junction box gets damaged due to repeated overloads when attempting to lock/unlock.

 

We had this problem on the S Type and it was fairly common. Keeping the mechanism lubricated would generally work on that car.
Do you recommend to lubricate the area before you have problems?
I ask because I now have a X351 XJ which has the same type of gas flap release as the XF and wonder if this is a problem I will see sometime in the future?
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I don't think lubricating the mechanism will help ( and may just attract dirt which could jam the mechanism), I think the fuel bowl and linkage are probably made from a self lubricating plastic, as were no signs of any lubrication on my replacement fuel bowl. Also the mechanism on the fuel bowl I removed seemed to move quite freely. After moving it slightly I tried connecting it to a 12v source and it moved fine, so probably a bad spot for the motor, I dismantled the actuator and it contains a small motor like in the door locks that are prone to failing, so my take is it's probably to do with worn/contaminated brushes in the motor. Unfortunately I couldn't find a non-destructive way to remove the motor from the actuator housing, it seems the plastic is injected around the pins for the external connector after fitting. Note there are no microswitches for end of travel, so the controller ( RSJB ) must either detect the change in current at the end of the action, of just apply power for a fixed short burst.

The second picture on https://www.megavaux.co.uk/p25025_fu...-polaris-white shows how the linkage runs from the actuator, along the top of the fuel bowl, and down the left edge before going through the hole, and acting as the locking pin pretty well.

 

Thanks much and understood. I will NOT be lubricating anything in that area. So far no problems either.
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