That's a new one!
Can you post the TSB?
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It does seem ridiculous with the X250 for a used engine to be worth more than the car after 8 to 10 years, but I'm guessing its because people buy the engines to replace X150 and X152 which are still worth considerably more at the same age and assumed to be much sooner to go back up in value as collectables. I remember about 25 years ago, my uncle was going into a nursing home and needed to sell his 67 Chrysler Imperial. He got some incredible offers for it but all anybody wanted was the 440 motor to restore a GTX or to put into a drag racer. He couldn't bear the thought of his Imperial being dismantled, so my dad finally helped by arranging to sell it for next to nothing to a collector friend of his who had room for it and promised to keep it intact. I suspect very few XF's will survive beyond 20-25 years because the engines will be taken to fix the more valuable Jaguars.

Almost certainly - and this happens with a lot of manufacturers too. I was into Peugeots when I was a lot younger and living in the UK (and crucially in the mid-90s when they were actually making a few fairly decent cars, as opposed to now) and there were lots of 405 Mi16s (which I liked) scrapped as they were bought relatively cheap solely for the engine so the owner could transplant it into their 205 or 309.

Btw, as mentioned, this is exactly what happened to mine.

I even have the pics to prove it - you can see where the rattly loose chains have worn away the aluminum.

I FINALLY GOT THE CRANK BOLT OFF!!! Had to heat it up super hot, then take a 6ft breaker bar to it. It was the most insane bolt ive ever dealt with. I had an impact gun that is capable of 1700lbs so how that bolt got so tight it wouldn't even budge under that ill never know. My tensioners did have the wear spot where the pin hits for the tensioner. I pulled the oil and no metal in it. i was a bit surprised to say the least. now with no metal down in the pan should I still expect a rebuild or just try and flush it all out?

Well first congratulations on that evil bolt!
Don't forget to replace it.

Al. is soft and forgiving against anything else. You had very little steel on your magnet.
I would clean and flush the engine the best I could and run it.
Bet your fine.
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The one thing I would say is that if you're going to replace the tensioners and guides, you might want to consider doing the job properly by removing chains rather than using the "cable tie" method - timing locking sets are available on eBay for $100ish, although this will require you to obviously remove fuel injectors etc to remove the cam covers to lock the camshafts etc. The reason I suggest this is that it will allow you to also remove the cam phasers and change the mesh pre-phaser filters inside the ends of the camshafts. It would be a great clue as to if any metal has made it past the filter as they'd also catch there (and potentially block piston cooling jets, something else to consider).

Also I don't know what year car you have? Might have missed it if you posted it?
But are you aware that the chains were also updated from 6mm to 8mm?
This was done sometime around 2012.

So you have a chain update as well as a tensioner update.
I would heed Davetibbs comment and plan a complete swap to 8mm chains and the updated tensioners.
Looks like only 8mm parts are available now.

Have you read these threads?
Chains
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I am going to take the valve covers off and do it the "correct way" the tools are like 60 dollars on ebay. I have the 8mm chains luckily, but i will double check before ordering the new ones. I bought a baby snot sucker, to suck oil and potentially metal out of low points and nooks. The car is a 2011 so it was in the transition period between the chains. If i remember correctly, the measurement for the chains is the distance between each chain length?

On a side note, do I need to get the special fuel injector removal tool or is there something else I can use?

Dropped oil pan today after finding limited shavings elsewhere, found this big pin looking piece of metal just laying in the bottom, any ideas? Also the grey sludge in the bottom of the pan is magnetic what could it be? And lastly there was no metal in the oil pickup and no real chunks other that this pin looking piece which is pretty large and worrisome

I am trying to sell one of my 2011 Jag XF's with 77K miles that is super well maintained, engine is like new with fresh everything including cooling pipes, brakes, water pump, tires, battery, etc. Everything works perfectly, and it looks like new inside and out. Took it to a big chain that usually gives pretty good values on used cars just to see what the lower water mark is, and they offered $6K. So sounds like I will be lucky to get $8K in a private sale.

Gotta ask yourself, wtf are you doing wasting your time on a basket case like this?

I'm a glutton for punishment HAHA I bought the car for 3500, was supposed to be a running and driving car, it ran just horribly so I began to take it apart and diagnosi what is wrong with it, i believe the grey sludge is from piston wear but wont know until whole engine is torn apart, which i probably will not do as it's not worth the effort. im about 4k into the car and if the used motors were reasonable id just swap them out but they seem to want as much for the motors as the entire car online.

Sell it for parts, take a bus over to Texas, and drive home a much nicer XF for $8K!

Oh wow, that's one of the oil spray jets from the timing chain area. This suggests the chains were so loose they interfered with the jet and snapped it off. Bad.

Now you've got the bottom pulley off, why don't you pull the lower and upper timing covers off. I've never done this but the Jaguar official "zip tie" method indicates you can pull the upper covers without removing the cam covers. At least it will allow you to peer inside and get an idea what's going on.

THe front covers upper and lower are off, waiting on a fuel injector tool to take the injectors out to look inside. The grey sludge in the pan to me looks like what happens when a piston is rubbing the wall while an engine is knocking....someone feel free to correct me if its not. As for the oil spray jet, should I be able to see where is came from with the front covers off?

Dave Tibbs has lots of pictures in his engine rebuild post so that might give you a clue. Or, you post loads and loads of pictures of your engine as you pull it apart. This will help others and provide a reference for us to give more help.

Sure - from memory, there's a single jet that points at the gears at the end of the crankshaft, and then another Y-piece jet that sprays at both primary timing chains. From the length of yours in the picture, it's from this second Y piece. Check around the left-side of the block as you're looking at the front of it with the center timing cover removed, you should see the remains of this Y piece still screwed in.