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winner winner, so when this broke did it hurt anything or just fall in the oil pan? Any guesses about the grey magnetic sludge in oil pan in one of the above pics. Thanks for the answer about the jet.
Too bad you don't have a YouTube channel with a lot of followers. Those guys are able to make trainwreck car projects pay off in ad revenue. The bigger the trainwreck the better.
Tavarish is really taking the trainwreck concept to a new level with this one:
Take a look at the broken piece and see if it has any witness marks from contact with moving part. There is a chance it snapped on it's own (maybe a resonance issue and fatigue related failure) since JLR have moved to a shorter version.
What state are the chains in? Loose? And are there any signs of contact between the chains and the block which would account for the amount of metal parts in the filter and oil pan?
winner winner, so when this broke did it hurt anything or just fall in the oil pan? Any guesses about the grey magnetic sludge in oil pan in one of the above pics. Thanks for the answer about the jet.
Heh, I thought so. Yes I think it could have broken quite a lot - a snapped off oil spray jet could potentially result in a reasonable loss of oil pressure as oil is able to just **** out of the hole of the broken shaft, rather than spraying as a mist out of the end of the jet - but I'm no expert on this. I do know that grey magnetic sludge is definitely not something you want to find in any oil pan. It's almost certainly been through your engine - including oil pump, bearings, VVTs - which isn't a fantastic clue as to the current condition of the engine internals.
The chain guides were in good shape except where the tensioner hits and wears out. The block is not showing any signs of the chain making contact with it like ive seen in other threads. I had good compression on the drivers side bank where I was getting the misfire codes prior to taking it all apart. When the fuel injector tool gets here ill pull the valve cover and have a look. With the sludge being magnetic I assume its super fine metal wearing from somewhere. I hope it was from the tensioner contact point on the guides. Im at a crossroads right now before buying all the new timing pieces I want to try and figure out if something worse has happened.
You're doing the right thing by working out whether to carry on or ditch it. Definitely pull the valve cover and check the condition under there - if you've taken the chains off then pull the cam bearing caps (numbered - need to go back to their original position) and take a look at the cam journals as well as inside the bearing caps to see for any scoring or pitting. Maybe even clean it up and get some plastigage in there to see if it's vaguely within spec.
Also - if you're at that point you may as well pull the VVT phasers and check the filters in the ends of the camshaft, as these will need replacing anyway.
Last edited by davetibbs; Nov 5, 2019 at 11:00 PM.
Is that covered in the other posts you had about the timing chains? Also I will be out of town for a few days for a wedding so updates will be a few days. I just hate when people are trying to help and they get left high and dry with no responses so you never know if the problem was fixed or not.
Well I would pull some crank and rod bearings before I made a decision. You have the pan off so it's all right there.
The condition of the bearings should be another clue.
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Well I would pull some crank and rod bearings before I made a decision. You have the pan off so it's all right there.
The condition of the bearings should be another clue.
Actually, that's not quite true. In order to get to the main/rod bearings you need to pull the full oil pan off, not just the extension - and that requires removal of the transmission/flexplate so you can remove the rear crank seal.
>removal of the transmission/flexplate so you can remove the rear crank seal.
This just keeps get'n better and better! Between davetibbs and Projectjags6 we're getting to see lots of sexy internal pix. So please keep tearing it down showing us all what you're finding.
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You dreamed of a big star -
He played a mean guitar -
He loved to drive his Jaguar...
Sorry for the delay it took a minute to get the injector removal tool from china (it worked surprisingly well) Anyways the valve covers are off and here is what it looks like, no metal flakes uptop. Everything looks normal to me but I am not an expert. Where are the cam bearing caps to check them?
If you can't identify the cam bearing caps in that image, should you really be removing them?
You'll need to at least remove tension from the timing chains beforehand. The caps are what hold the camshafts to the head, and are labelled "IN" for the intake cam and "EX" for the exhaust cam, and are also labelled 1-5 for the position they go in - they must be returned to the same position. And with everything going into these aluminum heads, careful not to overtighten the caps when refitting.
Last edited by davetibbs; Nov 22, 2019 at 01:19 PM.
I meant to type "filters" and put caps HAHA but you're right if I didn't know caps I wouldn't be taking it apart haha. Plan on getting underneath and checking bearings tonight or this weekend. Pulled the oil filter housing off to clean really well and ran a scope down the holes to check for metal and didn't find anything. At this point i think the metal was from the timing components wearing but will still do all my checks to make sure with as much certainty as possible.
The filters are tiny and inside the ends of the camshafts, you'll have to remove the cam phasers to get at them. You'll need the timing kit if you don't already have it, plenty of copies knocking around on eBay now for like $100
Can you get to any of them with the oil pan off? I haven't looked real hard underneath yet, I already planned on getting the timing kit if I can determine that the motor has a decent chance of being ok. Don't mind spending the money but wanted to make as sure as possible motor wasn't dead before I did. This picture is behind where the tensioner sits and wears on that spot on the guide. That same grey metallic sludge is what was in the bottom of the oil pan.
