This is long, but I hope it can help others. I've had problems with these check engine codes for a couple years now and have posted about it here, and other forums and nobody recommended the repair that I ended up doing. I discovered it on my own.

So my 2013 Jaguar XF was getting reoccurring check engine lights. The codes were: PO137 (O2 sensor), P0420 (catalyst) and P2187 (idle bank). No matter how many times I cleared it, it came back. My concern was that I was told it would be an automatic fail for smog (California) and to make matters worse, Jaguar doesn't have the catalytic converter in stock, nor does any after market builder (I posted about it here before). I can't find it anywhere (STILL on a waiting list). Also, and this is another sign that your purge valve might be going out, I noticed almost every single time I would put gas, when I started the car after, it was start up rough. It was ONLY after I put gas. I had to push my start button a couple times and the car struggled a bit. Again, I didn't know it was all tied into the purge valve.

While adding some coolant, I noticed that my purge valve regulator was loose (which has a sensor attached). It wasn't attaching properly any more, which was causing the engine to almost lag, you can hear a difference when the regulator was disconnected, the engine sounded stronger. I had heard this lagging sound from my engine before, but didn't think anything of it because the vehicle ran normal, even though the check engine lights were on.

Purge Valve Regulator

I was quoted $2100 to replace the entire purge valve line assembly. Apparently, the entire unit, which goes throughout the body of the car and the engine, had to be replaced (according to Jaguar). I came across this video on YouTube (which is the same valve as my 2013 XF)


I bought the kit from Amazon:


I added it on by following the video on YouTube (with some help from my mechanic buddy) and it was really simple. We didn't have to fabricate or grind anything like the guy in the video did to fit the vehicle he was working on. The valve it fit perfectly into all the spots on my car.

After adding the purge regulator valve, I drove the car around for a while and it cleared the codes on its own. They came back on a couple times, and then cleared itself (which it never did before, I always had to clear it myself by using my scanner). After a couple times, it stayed off, and I took into smog and passed with no issues.

That valve regulator with the sensor, is what was causing so many issues. I had three different codes go off my car and it was all coming from that one part that was either broken or not working correctly any more. Rather than pay thousands of dollars for the entire line assembly with the valve, and a new catalytic converter, that kit did the job and worked for me!

I'm hoping this can help someone else, because again, I went on several forums about these codes and was never recommended to look at the purge valve regulator.

 

Thank you for posting up both the problem and your solution! Adding to the codex of info is laudable.

In case that Amazoo link fails in the future here are the relevant PNs for the valve in question:

• LR045109, 0280142498, AG9N-9C915-AA, C2D19426, LR027894

 

Can you replace just the solenoid part without the hoses? I see the whole unit for sale and just the solenoid. I’m having p 2187 and p 2189 codes that won’t go away but car runs fantastic.

 

Yes, you can. I was in another forum where someone pointed this out. And it's a lot cheaper.

However, you have to be careful because with my car, the hoses are like a plastic material and can crack pretty easily. I think that's why they do a clean cut and then attach the hoses to them from the new solenoid, I have a feeling if you just try and disconnect the hoses, in some cars,they'll crack and you'll end up replacing them anyways.