I'm getting ready to do a four wheel brake job including rotors on my 09 XF and your very thorough write-up was just what I was looking for when I came to the forum today. It answered several of the specific questions that I already had in mind and a few I didn't yet know to ask.

Thanks!

 

Here's a way around the special tool that's worth a try...

Got a pair of smallish to medium sized needle nose pliers? Of course you do.

Open them up, put the tips of the pliers in the holes in the caliper piston. Using medium pressure screw the caliper piston back in. Works like a treat.

 

Here is a Brake and Caliper tool kit that might work. It's from Harbor Freight, but it still might be useful. Cost is currently $40.00.

18 Piece Disc Brake Pad and Caliper Service Tool Kit

Harbor Freight stuff can sometimes be good and other times a POS. But this looks as if it could work for the occasional brake job.

 

Thanks for the how-to. I swapped brakes onto my 09 XF Supercharged yesterday. I went with these pads:

Centric Ceramic Front:
Centric Ceramic Rear:

One thing you may want to note in the original post is that my 09 XF Supercharged does not have pad wear sensors, which I prefer. Otherwise, the how-to was spot on for me.

I only swapped pads. The rotors were fine. The new pads don't feel as grippy as the old pads. The brake dust is significantly reduced (near zero). I'm very happy.

 

I went to mount my new Porterfields on the front but there is a variation in the outboard ear shape that was enough to prevent the caliper from mounting far enough to get the bolts in. Very frustrating.

 

I have completed the front brake/rotor replacement on my XF and want to thank Ed again for the well composed guidelines.

 

Thanks for the information. I added a note for 2009 models regarding sensors. When to sensors cost as much as a rotor or a set of pads, whats the saving vs. the chirping of the old metal wear clip?

 

I'm getting ready to replace my brakes and have a few of questions.
1. The front pads are still plenty thick, the back are very near the minimum. Will I be okay just doing the rear or will it mess something up?
2. I really don't like the brake pad low warning coming on for months before they actually need to be changed. Has anyone tried not putting a new sensor in or installing one but making it so it won't ever go off again by tying it to something?
3. How can i tell if i need to replace the rotors? I don't feel any vibration when braking and i don't see any big grooves. Anyway to tell if I definitely need new ones?

 

1. If the front brake pads are not worn out then it is not necessary to change them. However, some elect to change over to ceramic pads all at once because they do not like the heavy black dust from the OEM semi-metallic pads.


The rear pads on this particular vehicle seem to wear faster because of the traction or stability control braking the rear wheels and/or the integrated emergency brake feature may drag slightly after it is released.


2. The brake pad sensor wears out and causes an "open" circuit. You can "bridge" the sensor at some point and that should stop the warning light. This has been accomplished by cutting off the sensor and exposing the two wires and connecting them together. I would highly recommend just replacing it with a new sensor.


3. Brake rotors should be turned, if the wear is minimal, when replacing pads. The pads wear into the rotors creating an uneven profile sometimes. When you install new flat pads, you want them to contact a equally flat rotor surface. There is a minimum thickness measurement usually stamped somewhere on the rotor. A machine shop or even an O'Reilly's Auto Parts can measure them and machine them if there is enough thickness left after cutting. Most people usually just replace the rotors instead, because the cost of machining verses the cost of the rotor makes it impractical sometimes. In some instances machining will not cure a pulsating pedal and replacement is the only solution.

 

hello,


Old thread reply,


but "resetting/calibrating EPB" is a little confusing...


I just replaced my Rotors and Pads (front and rear) and I am not getting the 'NOT CALIBRATED' or 'APPLY FOOT AND PARKING BRAKE' in the instrument cluster.

I dont know if Im calibrating it correctly, I assume after I disconnect the battery it will re learn it..


Can someone tell me how to properly calibrate EPB after a brake job on an XF specifically?

 

In the HOW TO SECTION in this forum there is a https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...job-how-85582/ link.

An entire section on doing XF brakes. At the end there is a step recommending calibrating the EPB and refers you to the attached .pdf file, with the Jaguar parking brake calibration procedure. Please review and follow. It should solve this issue in a couple of minutes.

 

Thats where i got the calibration steps from

I downloaded the attachment...

My rephrased question is...

After replacing rotors and brakes... If you dont receive that message where you need to calibrate the epb... Do you have to? My epb still catches and stops the car from rolling or moving without the calibration..


Thanks

 

No. If no errors then the system is happy with the EPB.
.
.
.

 

So I followed these procedures for the fronts. No problems. For the rear - did not work. Was able to remove the caliper and pads. Looked at tension on EPB and it had some slack. Started to retract the driver side piston with tool. Was dificult but done. Now can't remove tool. Plate is now bending from pressure of piston. Don't know how to release EPB Pressure. Didn't seem like this thread or the instructions/PDF covered releasing the EPB or cover releasing EPB now that I have everything apart. WTF!?! Really need some help here...

 

in addition, in the section for REAR BRAKES, the instructions state: "The cable attached to the rear calipers should be in a relaxed, non-tension condition. If not follow the procedure to release the parking brake."

Where is this procedure? It isn't posted anywhere.

 

Each time I bought Porterfield pads, there was some problem. They just can't seem to get it right the first time. Luckily, now there are better alternatives like Akebono and Powerstop that are better and less expensive.

 

Nice write-up. When replacing the front pads, how exactly do you remove the spring loaded rattle clip located on the middle of the outboard side of the caliper?

 

Just stick a flat blade screwdriver under it and lever gently.
On the XFR at least, with the 380 mm front brakes, this clip can be a royal PITA to put back on. You have to position it just right then lever it "up and back" with a screwdriver, usually takes me several tries and a stack of cursing before it works.
I recall that this clip on the smaller front brakes (355 mm vs 380 mm) is much easier to replace.

 

I only find the front sensor when I search for 2010 XFR. Can someone please help with partnumber and/or link to rear sensor? i see 4 different front sensors and everyone has different prices, should I just go for the cheapest?
Partsgeek.com is the webside I'm talking about btw

 

I got sensors for my XFR from eurocarparts - pagid branded. Fitted and worked fine, about £25 each.