Off topic, but for your info: On 3.0D (AJD-V6/DT20 engine) used on x351 the high pressure diesel pump std max pressure is 29,000psi and the pump is timed. (running with belt)
The timing is needed for high accuracy injection timing. Up to 7 layers per one combustion cycle is injected for smooth running and high torgue. A wonderful engine for x351 since its high low rpm torgue. (have to think twise about pressing traction control button in winter or even wet )
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_AJD-V6/PSA_DT17

 

Actually, as far as I know, Jaguar engines have always been designed and built by Jaguar employees. Admittedly they were working in a Jaguar factory which was housed within a Ford engine plant in Wales for a number of years but the engines were never built by Ford employees.

 

As far i know, TATA changed this policy 2009 (propably part of the deal) and bought ready assembled V6/V8 petrol short blocks from Ford. This is also mentioned on National Georaphy megafactory episode. All others (diesels and 2.0l petrol) were long blocks from Ford/PSA ready to be mounted, until of era of Ignenium engines.

Edit: Btw: Tata do build cars. A lot of cars. Over 1milj vehicles sold annually.
https://www.tatamotors.com/

 

you're absolutely right! On this engine, the pump is timed! That said, it’s gear driven, not belt driven.

however, that puts me back to my original question…if everything is timed so precisely, would!’t the 4 link per “alignment event” be a serious problem for this engine?

I don’t suppose anyone has their engine open and is willing to crank the engine over 141 times from alignment to alignment to see if the accessory drive timing marks line up every time the cam/crank timing marks line up.

it’s just one of those weird things, and in my gut I feel like I’ve screwed something up….I’m just not sure what it is.

they say a video is worth a thousand pictures, but please double check my logic.

Or, as you say, am I just over thinking this?

 

On AJD-V6 (3.0l diesel) the high pressure pump is belt driven. Been changed "several" of these myself. Soon will be 2nd time i will do it for my own. Here is good peek for the set:
Exept the fellow in video do not know that there is a timing tool for 3.0L diesel high pressure pump: 310-212
Timings hold very well. After change interval of the AJD-V6 belt (180.000km / 112.000miles) the timming usually are spot on in every sproket. (at least ones o have made) Timing are set on locking pins / tools witch dosent go in if there are even 2 degree misaligment. Same seen on chain driven engines. Only if the timing guides, rollers, chain/belt itself have been failed, the timing have been wrong.
If average rpm / km (or mile) is something like 1700rpm/min and average speed is approx 60km/h (40mil/h) you can calculate how many rpm engine have made on change interval.

Edit: On AJ133/126 V8/V6 petrol engines the fuel pumps are driven by chain. This is good video to see internals:

 

Guys, this thread is not about diesels ! Keep on topic please or start a new thread of your own

 

I agree, wasn't trying to go that route. I was more focused on whether I made some small mistake or oversight in my conversion from Tsubaki to INA chains causing a HP fuel pump timing issue. I'm trying to track why this engine I've built isn't running...and at this point I figure it's best to go back to the beginning and have the collective double check my steps. Or at least confirm or disprove what I think is wrong.

 

I'm currently completing a tensioner and blade upgrade on my XK 5.0 n/a and would like to add my observations to this excellent thread.

My vehicle is 2010 has 83,000 miles, INA chain, no chain noises but the front crankshaft seal leaked so doing both jobs together was worthwhile. (Seal turned out to be split rather than a wear related leak).

I discovered the typical depression worn into each blade by the tensioner piston, no sign of wear on sprockets nor a stretched chain but the tensioner movement was becoming restricted or trapped due to it's engagement in the hole of its own making. The wear is 1 to 2 mm deep and elongated about 0.3mm.


Typical wear where tensioner bears on blade.

Laying the tensioner and blade out in their relative positions you can see that the tensioner piston is not at right angles to the blade pivot point. Therefore the piston has to slide along the blade as it moves in and out.
The tensioner piston becomes stuck in the depression it has worn in the blade which effectively stops the piston extending any further. The tensioner stops tensioning well before the chain reaches the end of its service life.



Early INA tensioner and blade. 62 degree angle between piston and blade movement. The contact point slides half a millimeter for every millimeter of piston movement.


Latest tensioner and blade with steel insert. Same mounting points, new angle of 83 degrees between piston and blade movement. Sliding motion is now reduced to one eighth of a mm per mm.

The new set-up is designed to improve the wear issue by increasing the angle closer to 90 degrees and use of the steel insert.

I kept the original chains and sprockets in situ and didn't remove the cam covers but tied the chains securely to their sprockets. Removing the upper and lower timing covers is sufficient access but only after removing the radiator pipework, thermostat and cooling fan and moving the radiator forwards. That was on an XK.
Currently waiting for a new crankshaft bolt before I can finish.

 

I reuse the crank bolts but never tighten them to spec anyway as I have no way of measuring that degree of tightness. How are you intending the measure the torque?

 

Please delete

 

Good morning,

I had considered re-using the bolt, I measured the thread pitch though and it was stretched about half a thread pitch over a 90mm length. So, no.

The new bolt arrived yesterday and it's fitted now.
The most expensive bolt I've ever bought: £20 from Craddocks. I used them for the Landrover parts as they were easier to get and slightly less expensive than Jag parts but identical.

I invested in a pulley removal kit (Nielson) on eBay, that includes the tool that stops the pulley and crank from turning. It came with a 3/4 drive socket, I shimmed that with 1/4 inch pieces to use a 200Nm torque wrench. I then used a 3/4 ratchet drive with a 5 foot steel pipe for the 270 degrees. (cheap Chinese thing but it coped ok).
I was interested to find the actual final torque and used a luggage weighing strap thing to read the pulling load in kg, it finished at around 35kg at 1.5m equating to just over 500Nm.

 

So based on this thread should I keep my 6.35mm Tsubaky chain and just replace the guides, and tensioners? If so, what other parts do I need from Jaguar for this timing replacement job? Or should I do a conversation for the 8.0mm INA chain belt? I have 2010 Jaguar XFR

 

Do you know for a fact you have the early chain? 2010 would be very late as far as I am aware. My 2010 XFR was INA, my fathers 10 XKR is INA.

There are two ways to do the job. One keeps the chain in place and you only change the guides, blades and tensioners. You can keep cam covers and injectors in place (search zip tie method), the 2nd is to do everything. Each method has a different total parts list.

 

While I'm logged in, this might help others;

Using a torque multiplier, available from ebay for sub £50 made the crank bolt a breeze 1:64 ratio, rated to >4500 N.m. Super controlled. My father suggested it and I'm very happy he did!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315456535247?

 

Yes it's the 6.35mm Tsubaky chain, look at the photo. Would I also need to change the camshaft and the crankshaft sprockets too? I heard another member here on another post mention that I would need to if I have this chain.

 

Interesting! Even my 09 Range Rover has the INA chain.

Is the chain noisy? You would have to change cam and crank sprockets for a switch to the INA chains yes. Crank sprocket is relatively cheap but cam sprockets include the VVT units making it an expensive change. If you can change just the guides, blades and tensioners I would do that, your issue will be finding parts I suspect.

 

Thanks for the fast replies. My local Jaguar has everything for the 6.35mm chains, like the guides and tensioners. They even have the chain itself for sale too. My chain isn't noisy at all, everything is normal. I just want to do preventative maintenance, that's all.

 

I would perhaps see if you can share a few messages with Kansanbrit above as he seems to have experience with the older chain which I don't.

After doing the job on my car and hearing the before and after my opinion has changed quite a lot, its very obvious when the chain is failing, people who have skipped teeth/timing have run the chain slack or abused the engine with a slack chain in my opinion - so I would not be doing this job unless there was a good reason and would instead continue with a good service routine.

What I would do (assuming this is a car you want to keep) would be to buy the parts to do the job if your dealer has them in stock... they will not have them forever.

However if you do carry on my suggestion would be to change the plastic guides (which can crack) together with the tensioners and blades, I would leave the chain. You can pull the timing cover and see how close the chains are, this will give you some idea on stretch and might inform your decision. Removing the injectors is no fun. I can see no reason for the 'zip tie' method to not work on the early chains.

Good luck!

 

Sounds good, can you tell the member "Kansanbrit" to message me? I'm new to the forum and it says that I can not send messages since I'm new here. Thank you

 

I am also relatively new and do not know him. I suspect he will see your messages here and reply