This spring I will be doing a tune along with the lower pulley (Mina which I have now). I currently have the Eurotoys upper and intake. I recently did new plugs, supercharger service, and the entire cooling system plastics service. I'll also be changing the trans and diff fluid. Lastly considering 200 cell cats/cat delete (while switching to Euro 2 tune as I've read here on ECU), an X pipe (have) and potentially some other exhaust mods. I'm hoping to get to a budget "FBO" level and extract all the easy power we can get here short of porting or a bigger TVS which still seems like vaporware.

As with most modders here I'm well aware of the heat soak generated by these motors (I think a lot of it comes from the cats so close to the block but I digress).

While I'm well aware of the common solutions (Alisport intercooler, Bosch 010, additional universal intercoolers), the cost to upgrade the pump and do an Alisport intercooler is about the same as a Killer Chiller setup. water meth seems like more of a hassle and I wouldn't be using it to advance timing so why bother.

https://killerchiller.com/products/universal-parallel-kit
Has anyone actually done this on an XF? Or on other 5.0 platforms? I know it's been discussed but have not seen it implemented.

My car is a summer daily but does not have many miles put on it annually. I live in Michigan and use the AC only in June/July/August. The car serves mostly on the highway and fun drives when 4 seats are necessary.

In theory this looks like a better solution for IAT's with possibly some user complexity in relation to switching between the A/C or cooling the charged air but I believe both are possible at the same time.

Looking forward to everyone's feedback!

Car is a 2011 XFR w/black pack, 70k miles.

P.s. I read that the AC shuts off at WOT? So this could potentially be a bad solution for long highway pulls?

 

Yes just about all cars kill the AC at WOT for better performance. Don't know how you would get around that but the Killer Chiller people probably have run into that problem before. Maybe they could help?
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Apparently to extend life of compressor.

 

if u want a cheap yet effective solution to eliminate the heat soak remove those ridiculous intakes that jaguar puts directly over the insanely hot rad and fabricate a direct line of fresh air fron iutside the car. I ran mine down behind the front bumper one on each side to the lower grill section and there is a significant drop in temps and noticeable difference in performance (no heat soak or lag at all since fitted)

 

Do you have any 3rd party measured numbers of the before and after of this mod?
Have you taken it to the track and raced it? How much did this lower your 1/4 mile times?

If not just feeling increased performance does not work. We all feel things and that's why we run them on a track! To remove ALL the feelings and just get to the facts!
Even Dyno numbers are suspect because of the vast differences in how the dyno run is done.
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I'm assuming this was a response for me.
no I do not have track times or dyno times or 3rd party times. Sorry poor choice of wording when i said performance i thought the words in brakets after would explain what i meant.I wasn't really leaning towards the feel more power but more so to the feel the difference on those hot hot summer days when ur engine is piping hot and u go to put ur foot into it and u feel that lag or delayed response in the throttle aka "heatsoak" compared to my suggestion where I've not once had that happen since modifying it.
I can come back in the summer when the tracks are back open and post some numbers from runs both with and without the intake mod, if you fancy that

 

Yes I want to go the track too! Just too far away and I like to go with a couple of other guys to make it more fun!
I find these 5.0L engines don't heat soak very bad. Of course I came from an S Type R which REALLY heat soaks bad! On that car there is no doubt when you get too hot! It just lays over and DIES!

I have added a bigger all Al. inter-cooler and a bigger after market IC pump in hopes that I can reduce the heat soak. Trouble is there's not any good way to see if this is an improvement or not?
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it's not an easy feat to get some accurate numbers to see if any mods actually have some benefits. Track runs have toomany variables that affect the times and or performance. Dyno runs are slightly better but still some variables that can affect the final numbers. But all in all from stock if u add a few things and do a dyno run will be your best bet to get an idea of enhanced performance and ball park of power and torque. Unless u run the track regularly, understand how to do a proper run and know your car inside and out I wouldn't relay on track times for accuracy

 

I stopped reading after this, that hot air intake is killing your mods bro.
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In all seriousness though - im also interested to see if anyone is running a killer chiller.

A thought on the A/C Comp shutoff at WOT - My guess is a pull isn't long enough to diminish the results of the shut-off but I could be wrong. The cold air being generated by the system likely stays cold (maybe marginally starts to warm/become less cold?) during the WOT pull if its 20-30 sec. If compressor protection is the goal, I would think high rpm not WOT would be the activating event perhaps its both.

 

The cut out again is NOT to protect the compressor. It's to give the car maximum acceleration when needed. It would be silly to sell a car that the AC compressor can't take the RPM's the engine turns?? Kind of a basic design mistake if they did that. Plus the easy way to limit the RPM's would be a rev limiter on the engine which we also have.
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Just going to leave this right here...
Flip a switch have A/C cooling 24/7 even during WOT.

You could also use one off a Prius. It's 12v electric and is designed to be efficient as possible and not draw too much load. maybe you could wye connect the drier and heat exchanger with the stock system.

 

The Toyota Prius AC compressor can be an alternative to avoid this. They run on 12VDC and can be used separately and be designated for the chiller system itself. You’d likely need to upgrade your alternator and battery to run this but it would essentially reduce the parasitic draw on the engine as well as avoid the AC off at WOT. But to be honest, how likely are you to be running WOT 100% of the time? If the purpose is for a drag race, then I am sure the temps of the coolant in your chilled reservoir would last you through your pass and as soon as you let off WOT, it’d just kick right back on and resume chilling. (Currently working on an installation of the Forced Inductions Interchiller and have spoken on many occasions with the sales representative about this.) but otherwise if it’s just being ran like a circuit type or even just having fun, to my understanding, it will run continuously under loads. Just at WOT it shuts off.

 

Hello, my name is Douglas Rogers I live in Chesapeake Va, I own a 2015 Jaguar XF 5.0 Supercharged modded. upper pulley, lower pulley, larger intercooler 8 speed gear throttle kit from Wraptor customs in UK. UK switch tune and Kincade chiller killer. The chiller is working most shops don't know how to install this kit on jaguar so they will have to call Kincade to get direction on installing it but it does work. I have separate reservoir feeding my chiller killer but it does use your charge cooler to your air-conditioned im getting 98-115 IAT temps on cooler days and 125-135 on warmer days 80% or better. still working with my performance shop to get the temps lower on warmer days but all in all it work to keep my temps lower with no heat soak. I'm getting 707hp to the wheels with this setup. If you want more info email me douglasrogers28@gmail.com

 

VICVEGAS84
I have sent a post quote from faithstudio on this forum check it out hit me up on my email about the chiller Killer