WTH? It's like a light show sometimes. Map lights randomly turning on and off.'12 XF Portfolio fwiw. Other drivers must think I'm beating the car for doing some mischief as I'm driving down the road whilst I pound on the headliner....

Searching fora, seems to be a not uncommon issue. Is the fix still swapping out the bulbs with T10 LEDs? Figure put them in with a squirt of Deoxit, while at it, if so.

Assume you have to drop the console down to get at? Don't see the attachment mechanism for it (unlike the XJ8s I had...guidance welcome, if this is in fact the accepted fix by the collective.

(And found a crack in my right headlight face...not in line with the bulb, but up along the hood line. Sigh. Always something. Wondered why I had condensation in the unit a few weeks ago. New would require donating a kidney...maybe from a breaker yard? I carefully leached some CA into it...temp fix, I know. If I do find a breaker with a salvage unit...do I need to get SDD to update? Everything else in this ride seems to need poking it with the software...)

 

this is the fix

 

Thanks. Now to track down the GTR 501-12 instructions... Appreciate the guidance!

 

WSM procedure is attached. Simple to remove.

 

This appears to be a more recent TSB.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...96034-1020.pdf

I successfully implemented this solution about three years ago. Quick google search seems the kit is out of stock a many sellers in the US but listed in stock on multiple UK sites. Apparently the LR Evoque had the same problem so searching LR suppliers may yield more positive results.

Or what they call "Carbon Contact Pads" appears to be just little slices of approx 1/4" diameter, thin-walled, black, Conductive Silicone Tubing or Antistatic Tubing (looks like shrink tube but obviously not an insulator) if you could figure out where to buy it by the foot or a roll or something.

 

This is a guy that did some good video on the xf
he had the three versions of then but finally decided to change marqe

 

Looks simple enough; thank all for your guidance...when it gets a LITTLE warmer (just went from light jacket temps here in SE Massachusetts last week to snow flurries this morning and freeze warnings today..

 

Glad to help
I very rearly use my xf, I have it standing on my drive with a C-TEK Charger attached to the battery
Well I went out to check it see how thing were going only to find the chaeger had given up on me and the batteries completely flat
anyway charged the battery with a new C-TEK charger
gor in rhe car and started ok, everything woekwd apart from thw rear doors not locking and unlocking and wing mirrors not folding in lndicaters flashed when trying to lock it followed by two bleeps
So the cars alarm set but the wwre atill unlocked
I took it to my jag indi specialist he stuck his computer on it, and aure enough the BCM has had water ingrese and nweda to be replace at a staggering cost new of nearly 2 grand so I've had a wonderful day today
I'm going to try and source a second one with the same vin no. and see if they can get the garage can work their magic, fingers cross

 

Tough on a BCM, the coding has to be exact and the VIN won't match, as it can't be programmed once it's been programmed the first time, so you may have issues if the donor vehicle is not exact, and mismatched VINs in that system can cause all sorts of issues, CCF may never be right as well.

 

Maybe this is related. The interior lights on my 2010 XF don't go on when I open the doors. The manual says it is automatic,
The manual also says you can turn OFF the auto switch on the lights by press and holding the centre roof light for two seconds.

So I tried the reverse, when NOT working press and hold the centre light for 2 seconds.

Now the auto switch ON works!
I hope this helps somebody.

 

Jeez louise, how to complicate something ! Just clean all connectors with contact cleaner spray, put a little conductive heatsink compound ( like you'd use to mount a CPU) and you're good to go, probably forever .

 

Agreed. Took apart (an excuse to go to Harbor Freight and pick up a set of upholstery/trim removal tools), gently pulled the interconnect flexible wiring out, cleaned end contacts with contact cleaner paste (I had an avionics shop, so have the right stuff to do this with), DeOxit Gold into the female side, a light coating of dielectric connector grease, all together, works, and the gremlins probably moved down the CAN bus to somewhere else (for now).