AAM message in the attachment image

 

1.The ordinary version of XF2.0T is my car audio system, 256W, channel 8, now has been upgraded to a 16 channel (825W), CCF has been modified, all speaker amplifier have been installed to replace, covering the console and surround speakers. But the timbre is not as good as that of the original 825W.
2. now I want to enter the car VIN, high version of the SDD in diagnostic instrument to connect my low version of the car, and on the inside of the configuration software update, do not know the feasibility of this method, hope master pointing is feasible. Will there be anything?
3.Before I tried to use Jaguar's VIN number to connect to Land Rover's car, the link was ok, but I didn't dare to go on

 

Show me WERS numbers and SW numbers of AAM module, on left side of this window located picture of vehicle and some icons, press icon with “##” and post photo of AAM module details

 

I have a 2012 5.0 Portfolio.
I have swapped out my front door bass speakers to the yellow B&W speakers.
The bass speakers had paper cones, which I have often feel are inadequate. The midrange were the black polypropylene cones and didn't check the tweeters but think they are the same as the meridian's/B&W. Those are nice and clear.

I had a buzz in the passenger front door, which didn't go away after replacement with the B&W speakers. I have done some taping to try to get rid of the buzzing, but haven't really found the solution..
Fast forward to the next step. I ordered bass replacements for the rear doors.
I ordered the subwoofer for the trunk and installed everything.
The subwoofer didn't turn on, so understanding all of the threads that it wouldn't be plug and play, seemed to be the case.
I ordered the Mongoose cable and SDD software for programming the head unit.
I ordered the 1200 watt amp, unfortunately I ordered the wrong part BJ32-19C164-AG (High 12 version) not the -Bx version which is the premium-16 model. (I had the mid 8 version. AW93-19C164-CU).
I received the amp today, and installed it.
Big surprise, the subwoofer actually works! Big sound, major difference. 11 speakers being powered! I don't know if I will install the center dash surround and the rear deck speakers. Though I know the sound will be impressive if I do. It's just too much work for now. I just want to let you know that it was plug and play, though I don't have control over the subwoofer volume, probably till I get the software to program the head unit. However, nice major change in the bass, which was definitely lacking.


Costs: $34 per bass door speakers (2nd order I got them for $20 each!) Total: $104
$170 for SubWoofer, Though it came in partially broken as the foot was broken, but looks like it still works fine as the foot is only one part of where it rests on the trunk space.
$105 for High amplifier.
Tools.. had to buy a 10 mm ratchet wrench to remove the amp (set was $40), door and audio pry tools $6 (not worth it as I didn't use them and they didn't work too well. I have the Torx screwdrivers for the doors already but you'll need a few sizes. I don't remember which sizes though. And one flat head screwdriver for removing the speakers.

VXDIAG VCX NANO and cable and SDD software for programming: $99.

So in total it cost me: $514 in total for the upgrade. Not too bad. Time to do everything, probably about 4 hours, but once you get a hang of it, it can be done in about 1 1/2 hours. (I haven't done the programming yet)

 

Can someone tell me how to change the CCF file to upgrade the audio from Mid to Premium? I don't seem to be able to change that selection in SDD.

 

Follow up to my trials and errors:
Note that codes for engineering mode only works once, even though you think you are still in engineering mode you may not. The seed number comes up at the beginning of using the SDD when you click the key. Once you've entered in your code it is in engineering mode and you won't be able to tell unless you are in the CCF process (second one towards the bottom on the recommendation tab under service.) If you save/export your session and you import that session again in the future, you won't have access to engineering mode. You have to start all over with a brand new session so that you get another seed number. This process really buggered me out as I kept requesting a new code with the same seed number and the codes which I got were the same as the last time. So I wasted money buying additional codes thinking that they would give me new codes with the same seed number. A couple of times, I exited or the screen froze and the session ended prematurely and I had to start all over with a new code. One lesson learned is not to do an amplifier update because for whatever reason, it flashed something which didn't work and basically rendered my amp useless. it could be because of using the original CCF configuration thinking that I had mid-end amplifier but it was the high end amp and flashed the mid end on to the high end. Now I am waiting on the Premium amp to be delivered this time.
As far as the CCF changes, I changed the CCF file for the audio system from Mid to High. What it shows on the front end display is just the woofer volume control.
If you change the audio system from Mid to Premium it shows the Surround functions such as DTS and another surround option, the subwoofer volume control also shows up. That's basically it. I did a change in the "amplifier type" but it didn't seem to make any difference as the flash data for the amp never did change.
Hope this helps others when they go through this process. I may make a video next time and put it up on youtube.

 

Can you guys tell me what is the difference (if any) between these 2 models and can I fit the BD model to my car:

CH32-19C164-BD
CH32-19C164-BG

The strange thing is that I could get the BD model (premium 16) with a very reasonable price here locally but the prices of the BG models are almost double?
What I have searched and discovered is that they both have same DTS and dolby features, same wattage and same speaker amount?

I would retrofit this BD model to a "facelift" 2012 model XF.

Thanks for advance !

BR. Mika / Finland

 

CH32-19C164-BD & CH32-19C164-BG are for the Harman Kardon Logic7 Surround Sound in the 2012-2013 Range Rover Sport and Land Rover Discovery 4.

The do NOT work in any other vehicles.

Well you may get sound, but the Surround modes do not function.

It has been tried before, without success, so do not waste your time/money on the Logic7 amp.

 

Could you tell me what are the correct 16ch amplifiers to use?
(Re-programming the car is not a problem), I just do not want to spend money on something that does not work...

BR. Mika

 

bj32-19c164-b* or AW93-19C164-B*

 

I have noticed that the base level audio system (8 speaker, no sub) has only 2 channels amplified/side for the front speakers. All other larger amplifier setups have fully active front speakers (3 channels / side).
I think this is why the guy in the thread (earlier) had the bad sound. Changing amp to better version from base version, is not a plugīn play installation.
I have tried to find out where the cabeling changes because from the trunk (amplifier) the cables for the active 3 way system are all present. There has to be a connector somewhere, propably inside the doors, which divides the second channel to 2 channels with passive crossovers.
When the weather here in Finland improves and I can start to do things for the car outside, I will dismantle the door and figure it out.

BR. Mika

 

The wiring in doors are the same for all sound system! Check wiring diagram

 

IF the wiring in the doors is the same, then where is the 2 channel passive crossover located?
Here is attached the correct diagram for the base level audio system.


BR. MR

 

Excellent! Now check with wiring diagram with 825W system from my first post in this thread

 

Why? It just proves my point, the cabeling is different on the base model sound system. There are passive crossovers beeing used for the midrange + tweeter combo and if you change the amp, your midrange speakers are then driven by the tweeter channel. Ie. If you hook up a better version amplifier (without removing the passive crossovers and connecting the midrange speakers to correct cables), your tweeters and midranges in the front doors are still passive and not active, like they should = bad sound quality?
OR have I missed the part where you have removed the passive crossovers and made the right connections? I could not find any info on that?

MR

 

You are wrong! There isn't any passive crossovers!!! Again check wiring! Difference only in one connector housing.

 

Unbeliveable that you donīt see the missing mid range speaker channels? Please check the following diagrams, I used a marker.
Un my amp, we connected speaker directly to the front door midrange output and there is no sound. Instead from the tweeter channel, we get all frequencys starting from quite low human voice. so there has to be at least a condensator for the tweeter somewhere.

and yours:

how about that...

MR

 

Unbelievable that you wrote it to man who first one who made full retrofit from 250W Jaguar Entry level system to 825W Meridian Surround

I know both diagrams very much, believe me! As I'm understood you can't reading wiring diagrams correctly!!!

Just check again what the difference in both diagrams for front doors? you still can't understood? cheek this one part:



Entry level sound system





825W Sound system

I hope now you understand!

 

No I donīt. I have a background of +20 years in electronics development (work in company that designs and manufactures gsm technology) and I have also competet in car audio competitions for almost a decade (won 3 times in championships) and I really do not?
It just amazes me how do you get the midrange signal (GNBU) and (GYBU) to jump in the air because they are not connected at all to the actual speakers in the base level system?
I understand that the connector you prefer needs to be changed (pinout) but there has to be a crossover for at least for the tweeter that needs to be removed because the other amplifier is fully active.
Another issue is that where is that parallel connection actually made - located, which I have been asking in the first Place.

MR

 

If you yourself replace amplifier you must saw the C4ME22E connector housing:



connectors location

It's blue one connector, all wiring for Meridian surround system (midrange & tweeters front doors) already present from factory!

If all necessary wiring present, in this case what the difference in both diagrams? The difference in one connector housing! Now you understand?