Hi All, I have a 2015 (x250 facelift) XF 3.0L SV6. I am wishing to replace factory 20" Kalimnos wheels, for a change. The factory wheels are 20"x8.5" ET49 for all 4 wheels, I run 255/35ZR20 Michelin PS4S tyres on them. I am looking to change the offsets. Most people achieve this by adding spacers, but, seeing I am buying new wheels I am thinking about just buying wheels with the necessary offsets. So I am thinking 20"x8.5"ET 34 on the front and 20"x8.5" ET 29 on the back. I intend to use the same tyres. In changing the offsets, do I have to worry about anything else such as new lug nuts or wheel studs?

 

Those offsets should work nicely, same effect as 15 mm spacers on the front and 20 mm spacers on the rear.
No need to worry about studs or nuts as they are not effected by changing the offsets.
But two things to consider:
1. Whatever wheels you get may not use the uncommon Jag OEM "mag seat" (flat washer) nuts and may use the much more common "acorn" or "bulge" nuts instead. OK if the wheels come with nuts but it will cost you extra for new nuts if they do not.
2. If the new wheels use mag seat nuts then consider ditching the crappy OEM nuts which are prone to break and get solid one piece nuts instead.

 

Thanks OzXFR, much appreciated. You’re a font of info. Pre-COVID I used to be in Adl every couple of weeks. Would have been nice to catch up. I am still thinking about upgrading brakes!

 

Hmm I’m now thinking I should do ET29 all the way round to enable rotation. I measured what the distance is for the current tyre walls to be flush with the panels and it’s 20mm in front 25mm in the rear.

 

Seems unusual to get different offsets that are so close as you can't rotate. If you're doing that I'd get staggered and put 9.5 or 10inch on rear and 8.5 on front

Also depending on wheel company you may not be able to specify precise offsets so you may have to use spacers and a different offset to get the look you want

Some 20inch wheels look great but bend easily. Do your research on the company!

I put Rohana RF2 on my 2010 XF SC 5+ years ago and been v happy with them. Without spacers. But the rear hubs of the XF SC and XFR have a different offset than yours

Of course goes without saying, you need to get the 5x108 bolt pattern for it to work. And I'd strongly encourage hub centric (might need hub rings to match the hub size on the XF). Otherwise the wheel is centered by the bolts rather than held true by the hub. And it can easily misalign

 

Yes I think I’ll do ET29 all around. Although I’m not sure my tyres have ever been rotated by the dealer over the last 6 years. Am probably going to get custom wheels, I think they get them in with the correct PCD 5x108 and then machine the centre bore 63.4mm and the offset to customise. They are so cheap compared to the factory wheels (which are about $6K) I’m almost thinking they are disposable. If one bends just buy another one for $600. I’m likely to put the factory ones back on at some point. Just feeling its nice to have a change at the moment. As the new wheels are likely to be more open I’m making the brakes more visible, so will probably upgrade those as well. The rear brakes are embarrassing.

 

Problem with going staggered is the OP wants to swap all four of his existing tyres over - all MPS4S 255/35ZR20.
These may be a little skinny for 9.5" or 10" rear wheels.
If I were the OP I would also consider going staggered with 10" rears and 8.5" fronts, and get a new set of rear tyres to suit, say 285/30ZR20 (same as XFR spec).
That way he would have the looks and stance he's after plus more rear traction and grip and a spare pair of front tyres to boot!
I did that with my old XFS, using Coventry Whitley "hyper silver" wheels, see here: https://www.coventrywheels.com/Jagua...-rims-whitley/
(scroll down a ways for the different sizes and offsets).
Here's a pic:

 

Yes - if you go for more open spokes (which I like) then you will want to upgrade to larger calipers and discs, perhaps do the slotted/drilled (which I have) and paint the calipers too

Would look great.

 

Yes I already have the calipers painted. I'm definately interested in slotted/drilled rotors I'll probably upgrade to the OEM 380mm front and 376mmm rear brakes. I've currently got 355mm front and 326mm rear brakes. Although I have read somewhere that the F-Pace SVR brakes may fit. I do need to find a decent mechanic because I don't want to go to the dealer anymore. You can see in the pic the rear wheels could definitely be pushed out by 20-25mm.

 

Dunno if the F-Pace SVR brakes will work, I suspect the hubs and mounting points are different, I know that the X260 brakes are different to the X250 brakes so maybe the same with the F-Pace.
Yes, 380 mm front and 376 mm rear brakes will bolt straight up to your car but it would be a very expensive upgrade as the parts are not cheap.
If you shop around/search Fleabay etc you might get lucky and find used calipers and brackets for a reasonable price but you will need new rotors and pads and splash shields for sure.
For the 380 mm calipers and brackets (and rotors) they are all the same across XFR, XJR, XKR and F-Type R so don't just restrict your search to XF, but 376 mm rear brakes differ across the Jag range (the rotors are the same though) as some (such as the X250) use the old single EPB motor driving a pair of cables whereas others use the more modern separate EPB motors one on each caliper (eg F-Type) so make sure you get the older type.
You can get new slotted and/or drilled rotors from Fleabay where there are dozens of listings at good prices, way less than the OEM rotors, just search for "Jaguar XFR brake rotors".
Many of the slotted and/or drilled rotors come as kits with pads included but I would steer clear of them as you are taking a punt with those pads on quality and composition, better to get known good quality low-dust pads separately such as Porterfield R4S or EBC redstuffs.

 

Thanks for all that useful info. Yes maybe the F-Pace SVR go onto the x260 and not x250. I am hoping I can get away with $6-8k, do you think will be much more than that? I note from your many useful previous posts that you have a lot of experience upgrading brakes.

 

For all new parts you should get away with paying less than $8k including labour (even crappy Oz $s).
However the most expensive new parts by far are the calipers and brackets, especially the 380 mm fronts, and you could save a bundle by buying those used.
When I upgraded the rear brakes on the F-Type from 326 mm to 376 mm my total cost was less than $1,000 AU, mainly because I got lucky and found brand new calipers and brackets going real cheap on Fleabay, I already had the rotors, and also because I did all the labour myself.
Changing the brakes yourself is not that difficult providing you have the time, space and tools and very basic skills with the spanners.
If you don't and you get a mechanic to do it I can only guess the labour cost but it should not be more than say six hours at $80 per hour = $480.

Edit - I forgot to add - nobody but nobody in Oz sells any of these parts other than JLR dealerships, so you have two choices - buy from OS and pay a fair whack in shipping costs, or buy from JLR and pay waaaay more again.

 

Yes I’ve become good at ordering from RimmerBros and BritCar. The shipping is not too bad. Seems best to buy separately and keep <$1k to avoid import costs.

 

Yep, same two I buy lots of parts from.
Also don't forget Rock Auto in the good ol' US of A for service/maintenance things such as oil filters, air filters, cabin filters, brake pads and so on.
They are usually the cheapest going and their postage costs are a lot less than the Pommy bunch.