HI folks, I cannot overstate how little I know but I have an old XF that I love, cannot afford specialist attention and have been waiting for the local guy for 2 months.

So, I can get around if taking it very very slowly/steady but as soon as the revs hit c. 2,700 or so (via acceleration or a hill) the car goes to restricted performance. As I imagine is very normal this resets when the car is off for a couple of minutes.

The local guy did do a scan and the error message stated that the fuel was too rich on one bank, leading me to attempt to 'research' injectors etc.

The additional bit of information (whilst obviously this could be a red herring) is that although I have never noticed during the past 6 or so years, now as I accelerate the internal fan/air is stronger. I admit that I only know via the internet that the accelerator is linked to the throttle box etc but I am wondering why the sound of the fan is only obvious to me since this issue has been occurring.

Yes, I am unfortunately a low mileage mainly short journey bloke.

You will either go gently with me or you won't but any advice or direction would be greatly appreciated.

 

Do you have an Diesel or Petrol engine? Helps a lot to know the model you have, since different engines have different faulty points.

 

Yes you must give all the car details or the answers you get won't be very good. Year, drive train, mileage and where your at.

Also describing the code is of zero value. ALWAYS post the actual code!
Next be sure and clear all codes and check what returns. You want to make sure the codes your chasing are current and not some left over old codes.

So until you can get the actual codes we are in the dark.
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Get your own OBD tool, an elm327 will do for this simple stuff for $5-$10

 

HI folks, and thanks for the replies. I did say that I was an idiot.
The car is a 59 plate 3.0 D, and has done a little over 140,000 miles BUT the last few years this is c. 4,000-5,000 based on MOT details.
I do have one of those cheap OBD scanners and will see if I can get it to produce anything.

 

Hi again, I found the cheap OBD thing and from cold I have no relevant codes.
When in RP (having hit c. 2,500 rpm) I have P006 and P006A although to me the two seem to be the same thing.
The MAP sensor does not appear to be blocked but I will pick up some of the recommended cleaning spray tomorrow.
With the car still hot but having been off for 30 seconds to reset, I got a message stating P301B - test failed.

Is the latter an indication that there may be a bigger issue, or is it likely that it is simply that the test failed due to the MAF or MAP (or both) as suggested by the other codes please?
The car is 15-16 years old so is it worth simply changing the MAP and MAF one at a time rather than attempting to clean, ie have they passed their sell by date anyway?
Should I attend to these first and see whether the injector error code reoccurs or would you recommend buying a new injector (or testing via swapping) ?

Many thanks

 

Ok.
The increasing fan sound you heard is propably escaping turbo boost. You have an airleak on pressure side.
Check if your throthle body is wet/oily just behind the area where MAP sensor is sitting / Y-part air splits towards inlet manifold. The plastic seam could be split causing air leak. Also sometimes throthle body front O-ring can slip out.
Another item causing same sypthoms is turbo pressure solenoid sitting next to the turbo boost divider in front low of engine bay. (follow red hose)
Most unwanted possibility is crack on inlet manifold. Seek oily areas over manifolds.
I have original MAF:s and MAP. Usually these do not wear. (i have 340tkm / 210t miles on clock on my2010)
You can try to swap MAF:s positions. One of them are primary, used all the time, one secondary, used only when 2nd turbo join.

 

Many thanks Vasara, I cannot find any signs of wet/oily areas anywhere near the throttle body so I assume that I will need to remove it to determine whether there is a split. Would you suggest that cleaning of MAP/MAF is a waste of time or should I do that first just in case I am lucky?
I haven't located a second MAF yet but every time I go out the rain starts again.

 

What year your XJ is? (plate nr dosent tell anything outside of UK)
If you have single airfilter, like i suspect, because otherwise you would been spotted them both: MAF:s are above each other. Top one is for secondary turbo, bellow is for primary turbo.
It dosent harm to check or clean MAP / MAF:s in time to time, but i think your issue is elsewhere.
If all is dry and clean on top of the engine: i suspect boost pressure solenoid.
Its maybe possible to change from top? (when you look your engine bay: left hand, botton corner. Remove big rubber air hose (two clamps) and follow red hose (red hose diameter about 25mm) But i have always removed whole Turbo boost divider assembly from botton since i have an lift.
Three torx screw hold solenoid in place. Spare part is: PIERBURG 7.02207.05.0 Available almost every parts shop, since many brand use same valve solenoid.
However: Seek any crack piping or oily parts and intercooler. The turbos do past some oil for intake system and its good telltale on pressure side for possible leaks.

 

HI again and apologies, it's a 2010 XF 3.0 D and yes it's a single air filter. Is there a way to test the solenoid please?

Assuming that there is nothing disastrous, even the relatively small individual costs of the solenoid, MAF/MAP sensors, possibly a fuel injector, a smoke machine and a Manometer amount to more than the car is worth ;-)

 

Ok. I have same engine, same year, but XJ.
When the solenoid start to play on mine few years ago, i took 1 meter long bar and tap it when it stck open after rewing ~3000rpm. One tap and it closed.
Solenoid costs about 60-80€ (50-70£) and possible to change DIY.
I think your vehicle is more worth than that.

 

Hi, I have done some head-scratching and allowed myself to achieve nothing at all for a couple of weeks. Here, if you have the patience, is an update of sorts..

I am not disrespecting your advice re the turbo solenoid, I just have not gotten to that yet as I thought I would start with the areas that sounded simpler. I now have two new MAF fitted (albeit budget) and a smoke test machine (also budget as hopefully it will do the job and never be needed again).

I ran the smoke into the hoses that connect to the MAF (obviously ?) on the other side of the MAF to the air filter. The only leak I could see, although difficult due to the smoke coming back out of the hoses I placed the smoke hose into, was minor and from the front of the throttle box where I had not replaced the spring clip properly.

Not suggested by yourself but I had checked and found the throttle valve (?) to be in the open position and not resisting being shut (other than the spring). There was some oily residue at the connection between the MAF and the throttle box but I would be surprised if this was considered excessive in a 15-16 year old car.

I cleaned and put some grease around the ring itself as part of my smoke testing as this of course is on the outside of the connection and as such I believe will not create issues. I did the same with the old O rings on the MAFs.

My codes (very very basic OBD) are P006A and P1247(00).

There is some, but not a massive amount, of oily residue on the (I am having to check some of this terminology) cylinder around the fuel injectors - one a little more than the others. This is the one that, from front of car looking in, is the last on the left hand bank (possibly number 5 or 6 ? - Jag diagram and google appear to contradict each other).

As before the car will start and run with no issues until hitting c. 2,500 RPM and then goes into RP. I have been waiting for the sun position to hit the car and am now going to attempt to find the solenoid.

* having looked at the cylinder again there is the residue I mentioned previously ONLY on one side/bank, ie the left as I look at the car from the front.

 

The cheap smoke machine is as good as expensive one.
Yes. Throttle valve is more an air flap and its spring loaded for open. Check that its not sticking on close position. (not culprid for your issue, but once you are there... Clean the edges if its sticking. Make sure the clip goes in its place. Mine once pushed the O-ring out when the clip was not in its position. (naturally -15C temp and in snowstorm)
Intake system will have some oil inside. Its coming from turbos. Small amount is normal.
The plastic black part around your injectors are intake manifold. (both banks) Oil there indicate an crack. Crack can be such a type that it need pressure to open, so might not reveal itself by smoke machine. Clean the area with brake cleaner etc and run engine and try to check if and where the oil coming from?
Manual says for these codes:
P006A = MAP - Mass or Volume Air Flow Correlation
- If this DTC is logged with P1247-00, P0402-00 & P00BF-07, suspect intake air system, high pressure boost leak bank A
- If this DTC is logged with P1247-00, suspect intake air system, high pressure boost leak bi-turbo mode bank B

Also exsamine the Y - part of throttle body. There are an clued seam to the throtlle body (just behind the MAP sensor) known to fail. Oil disolves the clue in time.
In fact you should not have any oily areas = leaks in high pressure air piping. (even old vehicle)

 

Many thanks again, I feel that a crack in the manifold is not the best news but that identifying it would be a major step forward. I will clean it as soon as temperatures allow - at the moment I may leave my fingers attached to something.

 

Tell me about. We had -20C this morning. Not want to touch anything metal with bare hands.