I did the coolant lines under the Supercharger a whiel back and had the crank pulley installed. Haven't driven much

Car runs great (no codes, stalls any issues, great MPG.

Its just slow, slower than stock ( I have Tune from VAP

I am wondering if something was screwed something up putting the SC back on (replaced coupler and snout at the same time)

Weird sound here, Probably need to pull it, may have messed something up

 

What sort of "weird sound" are you getting?

Also if the bypass valve was not connected properly that would cause low power in that if it is open all the time the SC will have no effect.

 

Tried to post a recording, I will try to post a link to youtube

 

I just read the OBDII

No boost, at all...

I am thinking something got screwed up when the SC was taken off. The sound I am hearing at idle I think is the boost pressure being bled off. Could be a bad gasket but I pull plenty of vacuum and have not performance issues or codes.

How do you check the bypass valve? I get no codes, car drives fine, just slow....I wnat to check the valve and see if there is an issue with the actuator or valve itself.

Ho

 

The bypass valve is deep within the supercharger, no way of physically checking it without removing the supercharger.
Sounds to me like it is stuck fully open which could be either a mechanical problem or an electrical/software problem.
The simplest thing to try first is a battery reset - disconnect the battery for 30 seconds then reconnect - unlikely it will do the trick but stranger things have happened with these cars.
Then, assuming that doesn't work, you may need a new ECU (PCM) tune to get the bypass valve working again.
Last resort would be removing the SC.

 

Thank Oz, the valve looked fine when i went to install it ( was fully closed) as it was when I took it off. I was thinking the actuator may be the issue, it is electronic, so you never know. I have a spare, so I may just try swapping that,

I was hoping there was a way to unplug/jump/bypass to see if I would be able to get boost up just to see if the butterfly was moving. In my Saabs you would pull one of the vacuum hoses of the BPV and it would hold boost at max ( you wouldn't want to drive it like that, but it was a way to see if the valve was closing.

I will try the battery method, I have talked to Chris at VAP, I have their tune but added it after fixing the SC and pipes. He asked me to do some logging but I figured I find if the hardware had any issues I can deal with before doing that.

If its not one thing its another... only Jaguar.....

 

Is there a wire missing from this plug. I cannot for the life of me remember if this was like this before I pulled the SC, but that was a long process over a long time but I usually would have noticed something odd like this

Is this just a wire piece to keep the pin in place. I did not see a corresponding wire in the loom

 

I'm not saying it's not supposed to be like that, but that does look pretty unusual - usually if there's no wire they just don't bother pinning the plug for that position in the first place. The only way you'll know for sure is to get the wiring diagrams for your specific engine/model.

That said, I'd say the actuator or the wiring to it is a pretty good place to start in terms of ruling out faults, so if you know the spare is good first thing to try is swapping that over.

 

I actually have a spare entire SC (picked up an entire unit with the actuator for $200 to experiment with porting, I will swap the actuator out)., it seems easy, I cna also make sure the valve moves and closes completely

Quick Q, wouldn't I get a CEL if the actuator was not operating (but wait, maybe without that ire the ECM does not read it correctly). I think there is a code for incorrect position reading.

My other thought was the MAP not reading, (is it on the back of the SC?), but I would get a CEL for that as well I figured...

It should be warmer tomorrow so I will give it a try

 

There are two MAP sensors on the AJ133 SC, one in front of the SC (the "main" MAP sensor) and one behind the SC which is the TMAP sensor. T = temperature.

 

Thanks OZ, I will check them all

Seems I was right, that green piece is a pin cover, there is no corresponding pin n the actuator. Must be put in place to keep moisture from getting into the plug.

As of now I will be swapping out the actuator for my spare and see how it goes...

 

Hers' and update, Seems the actuator has the valve in the CLOSED position when the car is off. Trying to figure out if that is correct. I would think not, but cannot figure out why the ECM would not know the position and correct it.

I have dealt with AC servo motors in the past in my Saab, they needed to be "indexed" (reset prior to being installed) for them to be matched tp the setting of the AC system when it is installed

Perplexed but I am thinking to put a current on the actuator off the car and move it to position it to open the valve while the car is off.

Nothing to lose I figure on that unless there is differing opinion

 

pulled the actuator from my spare SC, Seems that the electronic bit actually has the spring that keeps it open and the actuator drives it closed under current. I am going to swap it for the one on the car and see what happens ( and check the set screw at the same time)

 

At this point I'm assuming the actuator on your engine's supercharger isn't actuating, so the bypass valve is permanently open, but I'll wait to hear the update...

 

I hope its as simple as that. I only wonder why I would not get a code or it that it did not go into reduced performance (although the car drives fine, like a standard V6)

I do distinctly remember (as much as my feeble brain can), that when I installed the other one when I changed the pipes the valve being closed and wondering at the time if that was right. It looks like the off position is open and the valve closes when actuated,

Hoping to have to time to check it out tomorrow and update then.

 

We’re you able to fix this issue by installing a new actuator?

 

were you ever able to fix this issue?