What size is that core?

 

ya, thats where my air for aftercooler will be coming from , lol

 

core size is 77cm i think, but can send specs to you, it cant be any longer, in fact if it was 5cm shorter or 2 inch , would make the houses easier to run, and higer would obstruct existig cooler more, this compromise , and will see temp changes/

 

well work is Going, not allways as planed , LIKE PULLLEY REMOVAL, but done....

 

Original Belt was TOO SHORT, suplied BELT WAS TOO LONG!!! WHTF

I HAD to GRIND the Stopers on the existing tensioner to allow it to GO FURTHER, as no belt of right size can be Orderd in Czech REP.

WELL tomorow will go fer TEST.

Alex

Also will start new post on small noise form engine on startup from right side of engine,

 

Awesome how are you controlling the 6" fan, I cant wait to see the results.

 

I ran the cable to the extra cuircuilation pump and fans , to a seperate relay, which will control from a remote control, that will also control my CUT back exhoust,

but can be operated by a switch, i just see where to pun one ....

 

Well, i WENT TESTING today, the engine sounded same, went for drive boost was basicaly same!!!! power seemed same!!! I did a 100m dash to the police speed cam , and was actually 2km slower on take of, tried again, 1km slower,


fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuclkkkkk, but was smelling a litle water coolent the G12 burning, figured it was what poured on engine during work.

 

Well it wasnt , thesupercharger belt cut a litle hole in the pipe to intercooler, so was losing a litle fluid BUT MOST OF ALL, lubricatong the belt with water and G12 which is acctualy Greasy!!!!!

ohhhh shiiiii

 

OK< fixed pipe, washed belt with detergent in shower PROPERLY, washed pulley is brake cleaner spray, and then damp cloth, rerouted the pipes,

AND THIS MIGHT BE WRONG!!!! BUT TO HELL WITH iT, I rerouted the supercharger belt, this gives it more GRIP, and is further from the houses, its close !! to the adjuster , but with the adjuster allready drilled out stopers for longer belt,

its OK<

 

new BELT rout

 

STARTED ENGINE, and ohhhhhhhh BOY, the supercharger Whine that was NEVER tehre, IS SUDENLY THERE , even on stand still just reving the ENGINE, it just revs so fast and the sound is so smoothhhhh , and superchargy , like on drift tracks ......LOL


goind to take it for a spin again, but it started raining......(: , and the way its sounding now a litle scared to go for first drive in rain, so will wait for road to dry off.


ALSO since its summer i put 5-30W in the engine with MILTEC chemical, and engine seems much smoother and quieter, or its the supercharger that is overpowering noise of everything else.
]

 

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Changing oil is one of the most important car care tasks. Most cars use 5W-20 or 5W-30 oil because those oils work best in hot or cold temperatures.
by Cheryl Knight on November 18, 2015



In terms of taking care of your car, there's not much more important than changing oil. The reason 5W-30 and 5W-20 motor oils are so common is because they work very well with a wide range of engines. Most often, these types of oils best cover the range of possible temperatures, with a 5W-20 oil more geared toward colder climates and a 5W-30 oil more appropriate for warmer temperature extremes. For the most part, either one should work just fine in an engine regardless of the prevailing temperatures.



AFTER READING THIS DECIDED FOR SUMMER to go with the 5-30W will see.

 

I always run the weight that the manufacturer built the engine to.

Going to a higher weight is stupid.

 

Did you take the car for a drive? How's the car drive and do you have any videos.

 

OK, went for a drive, well what to say, i think I AM DISAPOINTED FOR NOW, yes the car is fast, but it was fast, I BELIEVE in NUMBERS, and my speed at 100m , is still the same, ....... this could be due the traction control limiting the exess power. MAYBE,

BUT dont seem to notice much higher BOOST , still 7-9 psi, ,

did notice a funny thing in the morning, while hitting 6250RPM, and the gear changing the boost for split second jumped to 11 psi, ,??? but later on no,

also noticed that around 130MPH + at close to 6000 rpm, the BOOST starts droping, ???? could the carger be maxed out, could the belt be sliping???

not too happy today...

 

AT this point a am thinking of checking the TUNE again, ..... before the tune at heavy acceleration there was puff black smoke, and bit of smell from exess fuel, now its clear, so i guess more air,


Also as if there might be more of a punch while in gear, 2nd , 3rd, in S , as you punch the accelerator there seems to be more instant response, I cant remeber the head rest hiting me in the back of the head like that during the pucnh of the gas,


........ need a dyno, but the Dyno guys told me that i should bring a spare set of tyres, as might burn one set, they said that around 600hp +, that before the tyres catch the drums sometimes the tyres get hot., and they have burned a set while testing a tuned M4, they said it took 5 attemps before the tyres griped the drums, other times it was just burning the tyres but not getting the power down, dont know if this true,....

 

In order to truly know what you have gained, you should have dyno'd before mods, then after on the same dyno. There will be variations in weather that will alter the numbers, but there is also a lot of variation in the dynos themselves.

I'm glad I did that process with mine as I know what I truly GAINED and was not left with a final number (although I am happy with the final number &#128523

Was also happy that my tuners gave me the raw dyno run files that I could use the free Dynojet software to play with and make graphs and tables.

 

Ya, I wish also, but only Dyno that can safely handle over 500hp is 3hours away,
��

 

Did find out yeasterday that I have some belt sliping , when HOT, THATS WHY LOOSING BOOST, getting new belt and tensioner tomorrow hopefully and will see.

Also found I have RSV 1900 CHARGER, NOT Eaton M 112, as I though , lol ��