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Hi guys I'm having a slight coolant loss that doesn't seem to go anywhere, there are no visible leaks, i do get some white smoke when starting up, for about 40 seconds then goes away, it doesn't smell like coolant it smells like gas.
Here's a video, comments form more knowledgeable members are welcome, i guess it's not head gasket, never overheated.
Start with the basics. Let the car cool down then pressure test the cooling system to find the leak. No amount of pictures from your phone will help.
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Start with the basics. Let the car cool down then pressure test the cooling system to find the leak. No amount of pictures from your phone will help..
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If you do a lot of short runs, in humid conditions you can accumulate condensate, as in water, in the muffler which then shows as steam on each start up. So as suggested in the quote you need to do a proper leak check.
When I got my car last year I actually took the mufflers off and drained the condensate out, after which iget very little visible steam on start up. The coolant level has not changed in my car since I first serviced it last November.
Last edited by Six Rotors; Aug 28, 2021 at 10:24 AM.
Start with the basics. Let the car cool down then pressure test the cooling system to find the leak. No amount of pictures from your phone will help.
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Thanks I'll get that checked, but regarding the smoke, does it look something to worry about?
Ideally monitor the coolant temp with a scan tool when doing the test so you can verify the thermostat is open.
If you have owned the car since new and can confirm it has never overheated you most likely have a very small external leak that's hard to find without a pressure test COLD so it doesn't evaporate.
Ideally monitor the coolant temp with a scan tool when doing the test so you can verify the thermostat is open.
If you have owned the car since new and can confirm it has never overheated you most likely have a very small external leak that's hard to find without a pressure test COLD so it doesn't evaporate.
Unfortunately they are not available in my country i guess I'll have to get it overseas, but the car has never over heated, i have cambos custom pids to keep an eye on everything, it seems perfect so i guess it's an external leak i was just a bit worried about the white smoke on startup, it's not always yesterday no white smoke.
I can smell a bit of coolant in the front on the driver's side when I get out of the car after driving.
Pressure test would be the next step, i have read that these are early symptom of water pump starting to fail.
I just checked the coolant level without turning it on after it's been sitting overnight, it dropped a bit more.
Any ideas?
Have you performed a cooling system pressure test following a cold soak as recommended in the other posts above? If not, it's all guesswork, which can be quite expensive on a Jaguar.
Obtain a cooling system pressure tester and when the engine is COLD, pressurise the system to 1 bar and watch the pressure tester gauge to see if it begins to drop. If the gauge shows a loss of pressure after 10 minutes, begin looking for external leaks.
Have you performed a cooling system pressure test following a cold soak as recommended in the other posts above? If not, it's all guesswork, which can be quite expensive on a Jaguar.
Obtain a cooling system pressure tester and when the engine is COLD, pressurise the system to 1 bar and watch the pressure tester gauge to see if it begins to drop. If the gauge shows a loss of pressure after 10 minutes, begin looking for external leaks.
Thanks buddy , that's what I'll do next but unfortunately there's no way to get one of those test tools here, do you think a tire inflator would work, sticking it to the return line at the reservoir and clamping the other end?
It's funny you mention that six rotors!!
In the past I have drilled holes in the bottom of mufflers to help the condensate drain faster.
Some cars just seem to produce a heck of a lot of water at times.
Carlos it will help if we can get complete data? Like your country because it's very easy in the US to do this as many parts stores will loan you the pressure tester for free.
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It's funny you mention that six rotors!!
In the past I have drilled holes in the bottom of mufflers to help the condensate drain faster.
Some cars just seem to produce a heck of a lot of water at times.
Carlos it will help if we can get complete data? Like your country because it's very easy in the US to do this as many parts stores will loan you the pressure tester for free.
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Thanks Buddy I'm located in Chile, just checked my exhaust tips they have a hole on the bottom.
I have a hose and a manometer from an old pump, i might be able to connect it to a small compressor i have.
Thanks guys for all the help.
I managed to do the pressure test with the old stuff i had laying around. I removed the return line and attached the compressor hose, on the other end i added a manometer i had from work, both showed 1 bar as instructed i had it there for 15 min, pressure didn't drop.
But the level in the reservoir did drop while under pressure, as soon as I released the pressure it went back up.
Swelling rubber hoses or air in the cooling system somewhere?
Pressure test turned out fine don't know if it's normal for the level to drop, when pressurizing, i believe there might be an air pocket. Or the expansion tank cap could be the culprit, it's 11 years old maybe it's not holding up.
I don't know what not look for next, do these system autobleed?
Pressure test turned out fine don't know if it's normal for the level to drop, when pre
ssurizing, i believe there might be an air pocket. Or the expansion tank cap could be the culprit, it's 11 years old maybe it's not holding up.
I don't know what not look for next, do these system autobleed?
I don't think it will. I have attached a pic from my 2012 NA showing the bleed port. There will be a similar fitting on your cooling system. Care is required to remove the black plastic screw. Some forum members replace this with a brass screw. It's on my to do list!
I don't think it will. I have attached a pic from my 2012 NA showing the bleed port. There will be a similar fitting on your cooling system. Care is required to remove the black plastic screw. Some forum members replace this with a brass screw. It's on my to do list!
Is there any specific procedure for bleeding, run the car remove the screw and wait untill all air is out?
Can't seem to find the part number for the screw,
This is the one i found don't know if it's bathe same one. Bleed screw
Last edited by Carlos Saez; Aug 30, 2021 at 09:54 AM.
1. If you have not done it yet, you should download a FREE copy of the Service Manual for your 2010XFR. Go to the stickies at the beginning of this Forum and find post#29 in the Hand Book sticky.
2 Then go to pp1126-1140 and you will find info you need to fill your coolant.
3 As I said above I have not replaced my vent plug, but if you use the Search function there is information from those who have.