By the way, I found this the other day when looking under the hood. It was just laying there as if the mechanic left it there for me to see...

This must have been the piece that broke:

 

Yep, that's the retaining clip end of one of those two small hoses, the one that sits underneath the other and the one where below I commented that you squeeze the two tangs together to remove it. The clip on the end of the other small hose looks very different.

 

Oh boy, I wonder where the plastic bits that made up the nipple ended up?

Hopefully they fell off after the mechanic removed that piece and they didn't fall into the cooling system. That's a big problem with the previous generation of the Range Rovers. Those pieces of plastic break off and get clogged in the heater core and then you lose heat on the driver's side of the car.

 

Another Low Coolant Warning last week on my morning engine startup.

Checked under hood and indeed coolant reservoir was low - i guess from the previous day I was doing the "italian tune up" on an onramp to celebrate good weather and my new tires - I drove the RPMS up and and then after heard belt slipping when giving it some "cam-change" throttle - Just babied her back home safely.

Essentially it was more coolant piping cracks but this time they mentioned they needed to take off the intake manifold to verify and replace it.

Below is as similar to the job card:
I hope I didnt do heat damage to the engine this time - unfortunately I left the car running for maybe couple minutes before shutting down (my engine burns oil on morning startup too)...car seems to run good though after I got it back (felt like they cleaned the intake manifold - carbon buildup?). Anyways the great news is she's still alive! phew i wonder if cats really do have nine lives.

They said they changed some other pipes/hoses/tubes they thought were prone which were good to change due to the access opportunity of lifting the intake.

Im wondering if I should be worried though because where I live we can have very cold winters and hot summers maybe adding more brittleness effect to plastic pipes.
I am currently at 97,000 Miles, I think Built in End of 2011.

 

Since they are changed, I would not worry too much... for a while.
Glad to hear she dodge another bullet.

Interesting that they replaced all those hoses/pipes, but they didn't touched the one that is the most dreaded... the crossover one in the back of the engine.

 

I aswell have a 2010 XFR 50,000 miles roughly and am experiencing a loss of coolant over time around every week I’d say I have to pour a half cup or so in I don’t know why or where to start?

 

You need to pressure test the cooling system when it's cold. Most part stores have a loaner tool program where you can get a pressure tester.
It too hard to see where it's leaking when the engine is hot.

Can you DIY the repairs?
If not I would just take it in and let them find what's leaking.

Has anything been replaced? There are a few known items that will need to be replaced and I would start with the correct updated water pump if it has NOT been changed yet.
Also a better plan is to combine the repairs so you only take the car apart once. Read the rest of this thread. There are several plastic cooling parts that need swapped out. Including the one on the rear of the engine that requires the SC to come off.
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So I’ve found the issue it’s the tube coming directly off of the overflow tank leading to the top of the split intake that’s connected to the metal crossover pipe... (yeah I’ll include pics because I’m sure my description has you glaring at the screen in confusion haha) but yes I’m taking it to Jaguar today in a few hours and they’re going to replace the part costing $27 US and labor is unknown but I’ll just do it myself if more than $40 US I recently attained the vehicle so I’m not sure what’s been replaced and what not but I’ll have to go through the pages of service records for sure because I know these engines can’t tolerate heat AT ALL😂

 

I replaced that exact part on my F-Type V6S a couple of days ago!
Part # T2R5910, possibly the exact same one for the V8.
It comes as a single piece, the large pipe/tube from the expansion tank at one end then the two small/thin plastic tubes at the other end which plug into separate places on and under the cross-over pipe.
Long story short the mechanic who fitted my larger crank pulley noticed a small coolant leak coming from the end of one of those two small tubes, it had gone very brittle and had cracked ever so slightly. So with no replacement part in sight he cut that tube off and replaced it with a piece of rubber hose, clamped on at each end. All was good for a few weeks until one end of this replacement hose developed a small split where it was clamped and was leaking coolant fairly badly/quickly, way worse than before. I bought a new clamp, cut the split end off the rubber hose (only about 1 cm) and refitted it with the new clamp, all good!
This was two years and five months ago now and as I was expecting this bodged repair to fail at some point and/or the other little plastic tube to split or crack, I bought a brand new part from Britcar (in England) for not a helluva lot of $ even after postage.
Well that repaired tube/pipe failed again a couple of days ago so it was time to fit the new one. I don't know exactly where it failed, it was hard to see, but I don't think it was in the same place as before.
Anyway, it's not a particularly difficult job to replace this tube, if I can do it anyone can, I suggest you have a good look at the connections on the new tube to figure out how they work and hence how to get the old one off.
Just two minor hassles and hints:
1. The tangs/clips on the two ends of the old small tube were so brittle that they snapped off as soon as I tried to squeeze or pry them open and pull the tubes off. Not to worry, these are just locking tangs that the new part comes with anyway .
2. The furthest away and lower tube end was a minor PITA to fit as it goes under the cross-over pipe and access to it is largely blocked by the main coolant pipe on that side. The trick is to wiggle the end of the new tube into place with one hand while holding the connector it goes into (a small cylinder) with a pair of pliers (it is very wobbly!) then use a long thin flat blade screwdriver under that main coolant pipe to locate the "back" of the new connector and gently push it fully home into the cylinder.

Edit - see post # 9 of this thread by Hen555, it shows the coolant pipe in question.
No doubt it is slightly different to the one on my F-Type but the fitting method should be much the same.

 

So yes it is the exact same part # surprisingly! Thanks for the detailed description of how to install it, I attempted to do it without doing any research all was well until I looked closer and noticed like you said the ends of the pieces were so rotted I suppose they had broken off When I roughly extracted the part 😂 so i used a pick tool to extract them out. This was yesterday so all is well drive the car to work and home good levels of coolant definitely a relief from thinking I had gasket problems... once again thanks!

 

Hen555, great post, thanks. I wonder how you obtained such great parts pictures. The version of JEPC that I have doesn’t give me pics like these. Please let me know about where or how you got such great parts pictures.

thanks

 

Those look like the on-line parts catalogs from Jaguar dealers?
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Yes the pictures from googling images of the part number. The blowout schematic, like clubairth1 said, can be found from a jaguar dealership website that sells parts. Many of the dealerships in North America I notice have the same online catalogue which is great for determining the latest part numbers for your specific car. You can even see their quoted price.

 

And annoyingly as I've just discovered after placing a $750 order for "all" the pipes and hoses is there are at least two coolant pipes (those that go to the throttle body) that are NOT on that picture.

Damn it........

 

thanks

 

wow, checked ebay and there is a guy with 80+ sold of the replacement part.
mine blew today.
must be pretty common

 

Before changing reservoir. Check battery in Key Fob. Frequency use by both fob, tpms and possibly sensor in coolant reservoir. If tpms gets nutty along with low coolant message...could be? Fixed mine.
I'm not a mechanic - obviously.

 

Definitely not. The coolant reservoir sensor is connected on the cable harness, its not using wireless signals.

Chris

 

Just bought a 2010 3.0 d 1 week ago, had 3 trips (around 100 miles each) no lroblems until nearly home, then the low coolant light. I slowly drove 2 miles to the nearest carpark and found empty or near as damn it coolant tank... and a lot of steam, im hoping i can have the same outcome of she not dead. Otherwise i am gutted, saved my *** off and its such a nice drive of a car.

 

Leon just a comment as I see you drove an additional 2 miles AFTER you knew the car was over heating. This is the number one reason for destroying engines. We have to understand that the car must be shut off immediately. No driving ANY further regardless of where you are. There are dozens of threads where they "just" drove to the next exit or home or whatever.

None of that matters. The car must be shut off now to prevent damage.
Hope yours is OK too!
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