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I'd take Shadow993 advices with a grain of salt. You can say, it's full of...
What does he say....
Please tell me besides a typo where I'm full of shitaki ? If you notice c and v are next to each other on the keyboard. I had all timing parts replaced to avoid going back in... the increase oil pressure did eliminate the noise, as the tensioner are oil fed. My chain was tight on the drivers side where it didn't make noise. Excessive and Crazy retail cost on parts was the only reason I didn't tackle this.
My point on the fuel was to take caution opening the line, as it will spray harder than you expect when you open it.
Interference engines are all over . I did a timing belt on my 1980 fiat at 16 years old. And guess who didn't screw it up? They are nothing new.
I may not be a jag master mechanic but I can work on cars and motorcycles. I do all my own work on my 911TT and on an air cooled 911. The great master mechanic at jaguar cross threaded my intake tube bolt. Oh and he didn't seat intake tube either after a simple injection cleaning. So much for master mechanics. And did nothing but confirm what I thought was wrong ... oh and wanted $2k more and replace fewer parts.
The indi mechanic that worked on my jag wasn't a master mechanic... just a jag only mechanic.
You may know jags ... but don't ASSume others cannot work on them. Cars are nothing but big puzzles that require you to know torque when reassembling. Timing isn't complicated you just have to lock down parts from moving, match up a few timing points and be at tdc.
Why not share your wisdom and tell him how to do it and avoid pitfalls? Help the community instead of talking them out of it.
I'd take Shadow993 advices with a grain of salt. You can say, it's full of...
What does he say....
Please tell me besides a typo where I'm full of shitaki ? If you notice c and v are next to each other on the keyboard. I had all timing parts replaced to avoid going back in... the increase oil pressure did eliminate the noise, as the tensioner are oil fed. My chain was tight on the drivers side where it didn't make noise. Excessive and Crazy retail cost on parts was the only reason I didn't tackle this.
My point on the fuel was to take caution opening the line, as it will spray harder than you expect when you open it.
Interference engines are all over . I did a timing belt on my 1980 fiat at 16 years old. And guess who didn't screw it up? They are nothing new.
I may not be a jag master mechanic but I can work on cars and motorcycles. I do all my own work on my 911TT and on an air cooled 911. The great master mechanic at jaguar cross threaded my intake tube bolt. Oh and he didn't seat intake tube either after a simple injection cleaning. So much for master mechanics. And did nothing but confirm what I thought was wrong ... oh and wanted $2k more and replace fewer parts.
The indi mechanic that worked on my jag wasn't a master mechanic... just a jag only mechanic.
You may know jags ... but don't ASSume others cannot work on them. Cars are nothing but big puzzles that require you to know torque when reassembling. Timing isn't complicated you just have to lock down parts from moving, match up a few timing points and be at tdc.
Why not share your wisdom and tell him how to do it and avoid pitfalls? Help the community instead of talking them out of it.
Why explain all the things you suggested when you didn't even do it yourself? You had a shop do it!
If i'm there in person I don't mind helping them, But helping a person on timing chains over the internet is like diagnosing a car over the phone. ?!?!?
Should of have just installed a Ford Coyote engine your self then... their the same right lol
[quote=sir2]Why explain all the things you suggested when you didn't even do it yourself? You had a shop do it!
If i'm there in person I don't mind helping them, But helping a person on timing chains over the internet is like diagnosing a car over the phone. ?!?!?
Simple ... my time is worth more than a mechanics on my daily driver. I guess you cannot read ... I clearly said dealer rip off on parts Cost was the deciding factor.
It's not rocket science, and like the PDF I posted... jag master mechanics just follow those like paint by numbers.
The real truth is all mechanics like to say take it to the shop. Otherwise they are admitting their skill isn't that special. In honestly... it's not. It usually comes down to space, time, and tools for most. Dealer mechanics just see the same problem over and over.
Oh by the way. The great master mechanic thought my misfire was dirty fuel injectors. It was actually the vacuum hose on the supercharger and a bad coil.
Oh guess who figured it out ... this guy.
Ps. There are you tube videos on the 4.0 timing job. Why not do the community a favor and do one on the 5.0? It's 2017 ... do a video instead of a phone call.
There is even one showing how to do it on the coyote engine. Bwahaha!!! So many similarities it's 😂
Last edited by Shadow993; Jul 28, 2017 at 11:42 PM.
I have same noise after water pump and supercharger replaced 3 months ago..now have engine light on 4 codes leading to cam sensor and crank sensor then told timing skipped a tooth. Is that possible any relation
Could the replacement of the supercharger and water pump cause timing chain to skip a tooth and cause an engine light code..had it done 3 months ago..now they claim I need timing chain replaced 2013 xjl supercharged 86k mileage..what are your thoughts
There is nothing to adjust if you are just changing the tensioners and guides.
If you are doing the chains too you have to have the rocker/valve covers off which means removing the injectors, in that case you lock the timing with a timing tool - a bar(ish) tool that slots into the cams at the rear of the engine. Again there is nothing to adjust. Its not a fun job at all, especially with the engine in the car and in an XF.
If you've skipped a tooth you will need to go the whole hog and pull valve covers so that the timing can be reset with the chain off. If you haven't skipped a tooth you can get away in most cases with just doing the tensioners/guides. Yes the chains do stretch, I have before and after pics if anyone wants them however the main issues are that the tensioners wear into the guides and also that the tensioner mech/ratchet which is there to keep some tension when there is no oil pressure (start up) fails.
On my XF the chain on the UK passenger bank caught on the oil suction tube (the one under the oil cap), it bent the oil suction tube and caused the chain to skip a tooth... unlucky but I bet the chain was making plenty of noise before that happened (I bought with a gone chain and EML on). My Range Rover with this engine is starting to make a noise similar to the 'clonk clonk clonk' mentioned at the start of this thread, I'm hoping to get away with just tensioners and guides.
I would strongly advise that anyone with timing chain noise and no EML get busy and do tensioners and guides. Skipping one tooth is a problem, skipping 2 teeth is a much bigger problem.
If you've skipped a tooth you will need to go the whole hog and pull valve covers so that the timing can be reset with the chain off.
I have actually had good luck correcting the timing after it slipped by putting the cams back into the correct position after referencing photographs I had showing the correct orientation of the VVT sprockets.
I did consider this while mine was in bits, my issue was that it was a lot of work even getting to the chains and I was on a fairly tight deadline so didn't have enough time to do the job twice... this was also my first chain and originally I thought the VVT spanner step was pre tensioning something inside the phaser somehow - while in reality it just making sure the chain slack is on the correct side. I think with an inspection camera you could perhaps also see the marks on the top sprockets. As it happens I'm happy I went the whole hog as I found someone had removed one bank of injectors before and damaged one, they had also refitted without replacing the teflon seals.
Perhaps next time I'll risk it. My XF had been neglected on oil changes, they had been done each year but not with the correct oil, I found my original chains to be quite stretched compared to the new ones so perhaps my threshold will be how close the chains are (at their closest point where the tensioner is).
I also forgot to count links!! A good way of resetting timing with the injectors in might be to count links up to the top sprocket timing marks... Oh well.
