XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

traction control/abs/stability control lights - FIXED

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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 02:00 PM
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Default traction control/abs/stability control lights - FIXED

1999 VDP. I took the car to the local Jag mechanic because the traction control/ABS/stability control lights come on as soon as the car stars moving at about 5 mph. Once shut off and restarted the lights do not come on until moving again. Also, the wipers don't park and run as they see fit (no rain sensor). So, he has it for two days and says that it is possible a speed sensor in the transmission or traction control unit is bad. I need that car back and when I get in to drive it, the remote lock does not work (however after manually using the key it does unlock with the fob), the drivers window won't go up and down, the key control functions do not work, and the sun roof opens for about 2 minutes and then closes on its own - every time. Oh yeah, the traction control/ABS/Stability Control lights are off now and have not come back on. My suspicion is that as soon as the rear wheels slip enough to engage traction control, they will come on as before - that's what happened to trigger all of this to begin with. Any ideas?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 02:13 PM
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1. old battery
2. dirty wheel speed sensor
3. ABS pump solder points bad in ABS control unit.
It's one of the most common issues with these cars.
The post under yours for example...
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...failure-61545/
Use the search function!! You'll find a lot of reading on how to go through the steps to fix the issue.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 04:59 PM
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Whoa, a few issues. Sean gave some good info above. Has the car been sitting for a while ? The battery can cause funny things to happen.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 09:35 AM
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Thanks guys, I did read the previous entries before posting and did not find exact issues on point. ABS is now working; it seems that when traction control engages, that sets off the errors. As to the battery, it is less than a year old and is the correct battery for the car. What I don't understand is the possible relationship between the car being diagnosed by the mechanic and the window/lock/sun roof problems. Can running the diagnostics cause module control problems? How do I isolate the likely traction control issue? How was the mechanic able to reset the error codes so that the indicator lights are now clear (at least until the next time traction control is activated)? I would think that if the problem were the ABS pump and/or wheel sensors, the errors would have returned almost immediately? Am I wrong about that? Again, any ideas or ways to narrow the problem would be appreciated. Thanks! Larry
 
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 09:36 AM
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Sorry, I forgot to mention that the car is a daily driver has not been sitting.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 12:03 PM
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These cars work by sensors, wiring, and modules. In a car this old, driven often in the colder climate of Wisconsin (to provide orientation for our UK members!), I would suspect corrosion at some place or places in the wiring connectors.

It is time consuming, but I would recommend looking at the wiring diagram, figuring out whatever circuits are common to the problems, and servicing the appropriate connectors. By which I mean unplugging each one, cleaning each one out with electrical contact cleaner and a swab, and replugging. You may find some with significant corrosion. And loosening and retightening each ground connection in the functional areas involved.

Will be most interesting in hearing the root causes when you get this all chased down. Owning a Jaguar is like having your own Sherlock Holmes puzzle !
 
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 01:18 PM
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I would second Boomer and emphasize the ground straps (I replaced mine with conventional cables as opposed to braided cable) and the through the false bulkhead connection under the hood and the grounds and connections in the boot and in the spare tire well.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 04:49 PM
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have you tried a hard reset? like a computer, but you disconnect the neg- cable on the battery, and hold it to the pos+ post for aprox 20 seconds. No keys in the ignition, have the radio code handy...
Try your door etc then.
If they're still arsey, it's time to look at the fuses, have you a handbook? as it gives the location for each and relays (wiper). It sounds like you might need to reprogram the key fob, are the batteries good, get a fresh one. Have you another fob to test on the car? The reprogramming process is in the forum and can be found via a search.
I'd also consider asking the tech what he did to cause the listed issues, after all he worked on it, not us!
Update when you know more.
All the Best
 
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 08:29 PM
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The wheel speed sensors are one thing that sets the ABS on a rolling start. The C1095 is set IMMEDIATELY if the key is turned on. The ABS will fault if the wheel speed sensor is offline upon rolling above a set speed between 5 and 20 km/h. If no input is detected then the ABS MIL will illuminate. Link harness or sensor is the most likely cause.

Replace all the parts or read the codes and determine the cause.

I think I will start posting a generic response to ALL ABS 'light on' questions.

It will go something like 'Do not read the codes and just clean all sensors and remove the module for repair'.

I know that nobody wants to go to the dealer to read the codes but if you just use a 'SHOTGUN' for all your problems you might waste time, money and just keep asking us the same questions over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and............................................... .........................................


I feel better now

bob gauff
 

Last edited by motorcarman; Oct 7, 2011 at 08:40 PM.
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 03:15 AM
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LOL, good to see you feel better
 
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 09:41 AM
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Bob Gauff-

Are you trying to tell us something?

The problem here is that C codes are not that easy to get at for us civilians. The dealers don't like to read codes without doing repair work. The only code reader that (evidently) accesses these ends up costing about $500 or so. So there is a strong incentive to try other things before biting the bullet.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 09:50 AM
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Hi
This is a quote from forum member Sean B posting in another thread:

Anything short of AutoEnginuity will not read these systems. Nor the seat, mirror, BPM, security or other sensors. For General purpose, they (other code readers) are better than nothing, but if you are serious about maintaining a kitty, Get The Right Stuff.

OBDII Code Scanners ** Member Approved **

Here is autoequinuity website address:

Products

I called autoequinuity and found out that the only product they sell that is for Jaguar specific sensors is the PC based scanner with the Enchanced Jaguar expansion (that is compatiable with it).

Here is weblink to their PC based scanner pricing $249.99 plus Enchanced Jaguar expansion (for Jaguar specific sensors) $229.95 a total of over $480:

ScanTool PC-based

Order Online

The other 2 products - their PC pocket model and the Palm based model - are not compatible with the Enchanced Jaguar expansion software.

Jim Lombardi
 
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 01:18 PM
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Default it continues

Again my thanks to all who have provided input. I am using a pc based OBD scanner, although not the brand recommended in the posts above - perhaps an upgrade is in order. Last evening my curiosity got the best of me and I pulled the door panel. I cleaned and re-connected all connection points including to the control module (A Ford part with the Ford logo on the control module, with a notation that it is programmable) located in the drivers door. After reconnecting everything, here was the outcome. The sun roof now opens and closes properly; the window that did not work, now works, but the other three do not work (from the main control, they do work individually); the switch that now operates the front window that did not work previously works from the wrong switch. The car will not lock, that is it locks and then immediately unlocks itself. I took apart and reconnected one connection point at a time so I know I did not reverse anything. At this point I suspect that the module is bad and / or needs to be reprogrammed. What do you think?
 
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 01:20 PM
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Default more

I should also mention that the traction control/abs/stability control lights all still remain off.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 03:13 PM
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Instead of paying a jag dealer or buying a obd I took my jag to nashville auto tech school and they tested the sensors and gave me the codes after cleaning and checking sensors then came here to find I needed to repair the board which works great so if you have a tech nearby give them a call they work for free
 
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 03:14 PM
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sorry if you have a tech school nearby give them a call
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 08:11 AM
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The driver's door switchpack will operate crazy if you do not disconnect the battery and reconnect to clear the SCP network. I have replaced switchpacks only to find the same fault with the new one. I did a hard reset with the battery and all was well. I found that the driver's button would operate the right rear door window when the system is confused.

Most electronic components need the battery disconnected when they are removed from the system.

bob gauff
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 01:52 PM
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My old snap on mt2500 pulled the C-codes from my 99 VDP, even though I was running it in Generic OBD II mode. I dont have any european cartridges for it. If the ABS light is coming on as soon as the car starts moving (5 mph), I would bet the ABS module is seeing that some of the sensors are reporting speed, but at least one is not agreeing with them. I am glad I havent had any problems with the drivers door module or any of that electronic stuff...yet, lol.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 05:33 PM
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Default Hard Reset

Many many thanks. The hard reset solved all module related problems and there are no indicator lights currently lit. I guess some miles will be the real test, but as of now all seems well. Again - thanks to all who offered ideas/help.

Regards,

Larry
 
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 04:45 AM
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Good for you , thanks for the feedback . Hard reset works marvels , it also resolved SONOS problems lol
 
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