I spent a lot of time researching basic preventive maintenance. To save someone time I am posting another in my series that started with https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...service-61323/

Next is the basic oil change which is much simpler.

The change interval is 5,000 miles

The supplies you will need:

1. 6.5 Quarts or 6 Liters of 5W30 Motor Oil.
This is the capacity for the 4.2 Liter V8. I use Mobil1 synthetic. I have seen much debate regarding oil. Whatever you prefer. I am sure none of us drives these vehicles like a taxi cab or a police car where there is extreme idling time. I buy oil at WalMart because for the same product it less expensive.

2. 1-Oil Filter
Again there is considerable debate. Jaguar doesn't have a filter factory and sources them somewhere. I have compiled a list of filters available at auto parts store like Auto Zone, NAPA, O'Rielly and even WalMart. Whatever you like:

WIX #51228, Fram PH5618, Purolator L5317, Bosch 72209, Jaguar4H23-6714-BA, STP S5618

Tools required:

1. 3/8" drive ratchet
2. 10mm deep well socket
3. 16mm or 5/8" socket
4. oil filter wrench-filter diameter ranges 3.09" to 3.15"
5. car ramps
6. drain oil pan

Drive the car up the ramps.

Remove shield that covers bottom of the vehicle using the ratchet and 10mm socket. There are three bolts across the front, two nuts in the middle and two bolts on each side at the rear. Once removed it's simple

There is a drain bolt that faces the rear and passenger-side of the car. Use a 16mm or 5/8" socket to remove the drain bolt.

Open the red oil fill cap on the left side of the engine near the firewall. Drain oil. Remove filter with an adjustable wrench. Make sure the rubber gasket comes off with old filter. Clean all mating surfaces. Lubricate the new rubber filter gasket and thread on your favorite filter. Tighten oil filter 3/4 after contact. Replace drain plug and tighten. Fill with your favorite oil.

When remounting the shield, attach it on the centrally located studs with the nuts FIRST and do not tighten completely. This holds it up and makes attaching the bolts to the holes in the frame easier. To allow adjustment attach all the bolts loosely to frame and the shield, then tighten all shield fasteners.

Recycle your used oil! See you in 5000 miles.

 

Very nice......thank you!

 

My parts rep at O'Reilly's pointed out the Wix advantage: the "backflow preventer" (a small piece visible at the bottom of the filter, inside) which I guess prevents backflow. It appears to be tacked on with a Miller 200 at low voltage and wire speed. Due to the horizontal position of the filter, one cannot "prime" the filter by pouring some oil into it first, unfortunately. Also, those two downward facing threaded studs: remove them LAST when dropping the skidpan, and install them FIRST when re-attaching the pan. This makes stabbing the front three easier. Also, be sure to taste the new oil for freshness. ha ha

 

Great photos "edobernig", I have used Fram Filters since 1973 with no ill effects on any of my vehicles and almost all of them went to 150,000 miles plus.

 

I also found attaching the pan on the studs first was easier. I'll add this.
Fram Oil filters also have a back flow preventer value and have used them since they are readily available. I have also used all type of filters over 40 years and never had a problem with any. Changing the oil well within the mileage limits is the best for long life.

 

Ed is doing us all a service by posting an excellent DIY thread on XJ maintenance.

You guys who have "high jacked" this thread with an endless discussion of oil filter brands diminish Ed's effort. I know that is not your intention. Why not start a new thread and have it out there. That way the many others who are interested in the burning issue of oil filters by brand can post.

I'll bet a few of you are sure to have objective info to share. Yeah right.

 

Well said, and I agree.

I'm on a bunch of boards for my other cars, and I was surprised at how few DIY threads there are here. I'm a firm believer in buying used luxury cars at or near the end of their warranty because I've got the space, tools and knowledge to maintain them "relatively" inexpensively. The Jag is my next challenge.

I owned a BMW E38 750iL (V-12) for 6 years and 85K miles and only had to relinquish to the dealer once, for a blown fuel pump which left me stranded on the side of the road.

As I work on the Jag, I'll do my best to document the process.

F

 

I would like to add 2 suggestions that apply to any oil change.

1: Make sure the rubber gasket comes off with the old oil filter. Sometimes the gasket gets stuck on the oil filter housing and the new filter gets installed right over the old gasket resulting in a double filter. Then awhile later the gasket gets pushed out of position due to oil pressure and subsequently oil squirts out. If this happens on the highway, by time the light and beeper comes on there is rod, cam and main bearing damage.

2: Always oil the new gasket so it slides easily on the oil filter housing. This allows the gasket to slip and not fool us into thinking the filter is tight when in fact the rubber gasket is acting like a non-skid pad.

 

Oil filter debates and brand advocacy should be in their own thread.

Posts debating oil filter choice have been selectively deleted to keep the thread compact, readable and on topic.

 

Hey Ed, many thanks on behalf of all for taking the time n trouble to do this write up c/w pics.....one for the FAQ area I think

 

Added the checking the old gasket and lubricating the new filter gasket.
I would suggest this would be a nice FAQ post along with the my brake job post. Thank you for your consideration.

 

Because you know you will be removing the undertray for the next oil change, grease the threads and nuts which secure it.

They can be a PIA if they freeze up with corrosion.

 

Actually, grease everything that you put back together. Of course, some things cannot, or shoud not be greased, but it's a good general practice.

 

This post is perfect ~ exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for including the filter part numbers....

 

Conventional oil acts like a sponge and "soaks up" particulates from the normal operation of the engine. It also breaks down more quickly than synthetic for obvious reasons. Synthetic oils aren't as good with absorbing particulates, but have better heat and viscosity properties.

With conventional oil I can see changing every 5k miles, but even that will depend on how you drive. Changing synthetic every 5K miles is too often. Synthetic is much more expensive than conventional oil and has superior heat and lubricating properties. Unless you are driving hard in some extreme conditions you are not getting the most efficient use of the synthetic oil and are really wasting money. Following Jags recommended change interval is fine. Also, the filter should not be changed every time you change oil. The filter actually takes a little use/oil flow to become nominally efficient with trapping particulates. Normally you change the filter every 3rd oil change. If you change the filter every time, you are actually reducing the "filtering" efficiency in your engine.

I only have to change the oil in my 2010 XKR every 15K miles. I use the Jag recommended special Castrol synthetic oil made for these cars. On an interesting note I have to have the oil in the XKR sucked out from the fill opening. I don't have a drain plug and I also do not have a dipstick - all electronic oil level monitoring.

I change the oil in my wife's VDP every 9 to 10K miles and use Mobil 1 as well. Actually I think I have bought the extended mileage stuff the past couple of times.

Of course, everyone is free to change the oil as often as they want!! it is your money to spend as you see fit!

 

Back when I owned an 05 XJR, it was my intention to use Mobil 1 and run it for 10,000 miles between changes. Just for grins I sent a Mobil 1 oil sample off to be analysed at 5,000 miles.

The report came back. It stated that the Mobil 1 was good for another 2,500 miles. I therefore concluded that 5,000 miles between changes on a top quality non synthetic oil was the way to go for me.

The car had about 50,000 miles, was in excellent tune and used about 1/2 qt of oil between changes. I live in a hot weather state with no Winter to speak of. I suppose that all engines are different but I have decided to stick with 5,000 mile interval changes with a non synthetic oil on all my cars. I suggest that you blokes who are going for extended interval changes, no matter what oil you select, get an oil analysis before you attempt it. FWIW I drive like an old man because I are one.

 

Would you please elaborate/state your source on that comment? IMO the filter will bypass when it gets overly restricted, so why take that chance. I would never run a filter designed to be replaced every 10k for 20-30k miles.

That 4.2L engine works hard and the filter is a bit on the smallish side compared to our German counterparts.

F

 

I picked this up from a trusted Jaguar mechanic that has worked on my Jags for over 10 years.

I use Jaguar filters. As it was explained to me, the oil itself saturates the filter and that saturation actually improves the filtering action. If a filter is becoming completely saturated in the time frame you are referring to it would seem there are bigger issues with the engine.

If you change the filter every third oil change the filter is only in for two oil "cycles".

EDIT: So after speaking to another trusted Jag mechanic, he's of the opinion that the filter should be changed with each oil change. He also says that Jaguar oil filters (the ones with the Jaguar logo) are the only ones that are "valved" properly.

 

Excellent information.. Thank you!

 

I agree with you on the synthetic oil change times. In fact synthetic oil is a misnomer, its actually a liquid polymer which is engineered to perform much better than hydro carbon oils.