Can you guys point me out the correct way to do an oil change?
How may liters does it take?
There is no oil dipstick?

 

Another search for info or ideas about oil change and oil system
1. How do you guys change the oil with pump and without draining the oil? You take the oil by the pipe on the top of the motor? With what kind of pump(suction pump? Or small hose inserted as deep as it goes and big big seringe?)

2. Do any one knows what are the parameters and situations in witch a error or alert comes on the dashboard in case of low pressure or high pressure? How low is considered low and how high is considered high?

3. Did anyone mounted on x351 a real time oil pressure monitor/clock? And for whatter pressure? Or temperature for oil? And if someone did….. Maybe guys whu have land rover becausesame engines, what seller the parts for it? Clocks and pipes and sensors?
And where did they mounted the sensor? On top of the motor I think its a plug to measure the pressure or where???

Now.…. This is a curved ball….. For the real connoisseurs of x351 and passionate owners.

 

1. I use electric oil pump connected to the top suction pipe. The model exsample Lidl sell for 20~25€. Just need a short 6-8mm inner diameter silicone pipe to connect it to the top suction pipe. Its good about 10-15 times then pump O-rings start to leak. You cant get anything deep enough in the engine suction pipe, because it make few 90 turns. (pic on manual) The pipe itself go so deep that only maybe 20-30ml come out from drainer plug after suction don´t take anymore.

2. I think this is mentioned on Service and Repair manual? Never seen high pressure warning in any vehicle, since engine oil pumps have spring loaded relief valve.

3. Seen more of these on Land- / Range Rovers. There are few youtube channels where users have mounted these for towing.

The Euro5 3.0D is pretty Ok and safe to use in any conditions as long you use low ash oils (C1) and change them ~10k km intervals. (if you drive short jorneys in cold climate there are a trick to improve DPF burning process, avoiding oil dillution)
Some say that if your engine have passed its first timing belt (180t km) without cracking the cranksaft, you have a good unit and it will last if serviced.

 

Oil changes are a breeze.

OEM tools vacuum pump - Amazon.
Let the engine run 10 minutes. Let the engine cool 10 minutes. Loosen oil filter 4 turns. Pump out all the old oil. Clean filter housing. Install new filter. Put recommend oil and amount in engine. Allow to run for a minute or so. Plug in scan tool, confirm oil level. Reset service interval. Enjoy.

I don’t trust the on-board level under the service menu options. I’ve been at 6.3 liters when it takes 7.25 and my gauge showed full under the menu. So I always confirm with the scan tool.

 

Will look for the youtube channels👍👍👍thank you

A link or a pic for Om vacuum pump. Just to have a ideea about what I am looking for?

 

this is the one I have.

https://a.co/d/erMz4oR

 

And that extracts oil. How much oil remains in the car? Half a liter? One liter?
I mean….. An oil change, the operation paid only, at a shop here is about 30 euro / 30 dollar

 

Don't know. Never lifted the car, removed the under tray and checked how much came out and I don’t pay attention to what comes out and I check my level via scan tool every couple weeks. But this is the way Jaguar says to do it, and I change my oil every 6,000 miles therefore I’m comfortable with the small amount that may stay in the pan as there’s also oil coolers and lines that do not get drained so you’re never getting it all out anyway.

 

Yeah…. If Jag says.…..
We here are used to drain the oil from under the car. Any car any make any anything. Plug on the sump and that's that. Will try this method also

 

This fellow made video of the electric oil extractor pump from Lidl (same pump is sold in many autoparts store)


If you use any pump connected to the engine own oil extractor pipe on top of the engine, you get same amount out with any pump. (its not oil dipstic pipe, its made for oil extraction, so you only connect the pump at the end of the extraxtor pipe. Not pushing it in) By my test after pump dosent suck anymore oil, about 20-30ml will come out from drainage plug, so the suction method works pretty well. Of course some oil remains in engine oil channels, pump, heads, cooler etc, but will not effect and its more harmfull to the engine to run these clear than leave.
I change the oil when its bit warm, so it comes out faster. 6 liters will take about 15min. I change the filter same time pump does it work.

 

You are referring to this pipe. And there is a special something to connect to it? Or just a propper hose…. 9 mm diameter you referred?

Is there any special funnel to pour the oil in the engine after? New oil? I am really bad with filling up the new oil….. And I hate spill on the engine

 

Yes. That is engine oil extractor pipe. It goes down to the oilpan. (on V6 and V8 petrol thats under oil cap) You just connect the pipe of the pump on that. Some pumps come with an rubber adaptor like SuperChargerXJL linked. If not, just an short piece of silicone or rubber hose about same diameter is needed to connect pipes together.

I know the pain filling up. Been learned to fill directly from bottle without making a mess, but you can use any universal funnel of your choise. Just make sure its clean! All you pour in will go thru oilpump once without filtration.

 

Got it… finally! I have the whole procedure in clear. Thanks to the gays that contributed to the answers with ideas and answers and infos

👍👍

 

Note: 3.0 Diesel have 6.6 liter oil capasity. (with filter change)
I never fill it full as on every diesel with DPF its good to left some under. About 6.2 liters should have 75%.

 

One question guys. Another one.
Today I started the Jag after about 3 weeks. 6-7 Celsius temp……. After -6 last night.
At the start….. The engine shaked preety violent. 1..2 seconds and after it started. After ignition….. All sounds good. Really normal. No high revs.… no low revs. Just normal.
But for those 1..2 seconds and another 2..3 seconds….. Service required. Immediately.… looking the menu for what error.…. But it disappeared. No other lights no nothing. I checked the oil before start. 3/4 on the display. So all good. Just a small half of second flicker of the display…. Like low voltage. But nomasage. Just the one that was service required that dissapeared verry fast. Just got a short view of it.
So…. Whathappend?
Low voltage.…. For 2 seco ds gave service required message?
Low voltage.…. Seen at the display flicker….. Made the start shaky and service required message?
Oil pressure for 2 seco ds.….. Combined with low voltage? After that 2 seconds…. Pressure got ok and.….. No problem?
I let the engine run for 5 minutes, bonnet up……. Engine running ok. No smoke…. No nothin g strange or something else.

I know know the car was not started for 4 weeks….. All oil has drained. Until pressure, couple of seco ds are bad. At start.

After 4 minutes, gave it a bit of revs. 1500 is revs. All good. Round working normal engine sound.

Because…. Temps were low, all material contract. Maybe this plus oil pressure…. Plus low voltage at start? All parts ware contracted and tolerances even smaller?
Ps…. After those 2..3 seconds, at start…. Injection sounded round and normal. No knocks. Nothing.

All winter, i tried to start the Jag only after a 10+ celsiusfull day…. So the car won't be tight and oil not circulated. Could the low voltage that made the screen display flicker 1 second….. Made the start more difficult?
Now….. The violent shake for 2 seco ds. I really suspect now that the engine mounts are bad. I complained about this in other threads. Shaky engine at start and stop. Very short shakes…. But sometimes preetyhard. With 2….3 metal knoks. That in my opinion, is related tot the shake of the engine on the mounts… not the actual start. It seems to be synchronized with the shake. After the engine starts, 1..2 second, never a miss, no knocks what so ever.nothing. Iddle or revs or under load

So…. Opinions?
Thanks guys

 

I lowest temp i have started mine 3.0D without preheating on is -27C and it run Ok from start. (the normal terrible tractor like cold diesel clacking noise was there, but othervise Ok)
In high change it was low a battery caused an brief flick. On start the diesel engine use quite much power, first for glows and then the starter motor rotate engine against high combustions.
If you have SDD you can see all the intermid events on that odometer, even they have not turn the MIL light on.

Edit: If your counter have reach an service point, the message of Service Required is displayed 2-4 sek after start of the vehicle.
When you had ladst service? (note: Service counter can only be reset by Diag tool - There are no button combination on x351)

 

So….. Service required 2-4 secs is about service Intervals. I don't know when was the last time someone registered in cars computer with diagnose that it had service.
Will take my own diagnose because it can reset service Intervals. Oil is about half of year old! Tho about the answer

 

danu99, the experience after leaving the car for 4 weeks in cold weather sounds like the main battery was pretty well depleted and the low voltage caused all the extraneous messages. This was probably in addition to the oil pressure having to come up after sitting so long. If you are going to leave your car unattended for weeks, I would suggest getting a battery maintainer. I have the CTEK MXS 5.0 purchased on Amazon. Most of the learned experts on the forum will recommend CTEK.

 

Thx for the answer. Will look up the charger.
But the problem is I live on the second floor in a block of flats. I do have private parking but…. No socket to plug the charger. I think I'm going to use better a car starter robot. On battery.Thanks for the answers

 

I've got a similar few seconds shake now in the winter. I had the same in my bmw and it was glow plug control module, where on glow plug was left inoperable. So, basically the engine starts with 5 cylinder before enough heat is produced by the cylinder itself to ignite. Suspecting that you (and me) have a bad glow plug or control module. I don't have fault code though (bmw had obvious code and it stated the cylinder as well). Hope it's the module as it's easier to replace. Glow plugs can be PITA, especially if the they break while pulling out.