My glow plugs are new. From last summer. I did t put the diagnose on the car for errors. But I suspect low voltage.

 

Ok. What about the control module, also new?

Can't just figure out how low voltage can cause shaky engine? Maybe if it didn't have power to glow plugs...but I would suspect car to recognize that and not allow to start in the first place.

 

My friend.
First thing I changed on the Jag when I bought it was spark plug relay. Really cheap….70 euro, easy to change. Changed the glow plugs also.
What I had a problem with, the alternator, has something like a clutch. That has a bearing like sistem with *****. Tho he ***** I. The bearing were fried in mine. About half of them left. That's the reason for me that the alternator didn't charged enough, regardless how much I drove it. So.… battery low voltage fast. Even in 30 minutes after car drove for hours. Check that to. And that also killed my battery. Charger wasn't charging because of that clutch bearing thing on the alternator that the belt runs on to.
Wasn't plug control module, wasn't plugs.

 

Ok, so it's new as well.

These cars are always low on power, leave a door open for 2 mins and low voltage is displayed. Always cranks, I don't even care anymore the messages

 

Check the charger/alternator

 

Just for info: On most diesels the alternator have "one way clutch" for preventing alternator been destroyed by sharp crankshaft angle chancements on idle, causing by high cylindrer compression. Alternately main pulley have soft dampering, but these have been even more problematic than one way clutch pulley on alternator.
On x351 the glow plugs are monitored by single glow level like BMW have, so its possible to read status by diag tool. I think both use same Bosh based system, but the relays are not same because of this: x351 glows are 7volt type to have ability for good glowing even extremely cold temps when battery do not push well. Also the starter motor is geared for better torgue. (most modern diesels have geared starters) By this the starter can be smaller and also it will crank the engine even low(ish) battery.
First thing i notice when battery is low is that my instrument panel screen reboots when starting if battery are low. (go off for 3-4sek)

 

best explained! Great answer! Like in my case…. Screen flicker!!!

 

Hello guys!
One Quick curiosity!
I use motul 5w30 8100 eco-clean + oil. Acea C1, lowest ash level for dpf clean running!

Does anyone uses 10 w30, 5w40, .….. 10w40, or what type of higher viscosity than 5w30? Acea c1 of course!

And if yes, if you use higher viscosity oil, what do you use??

Why I ask this? Oil viscosity has gone out the window now days! With new car engines, oil has become tea! Really! Nothing more nothing less. Just tea. I don't know if its only for the eastern Europe market, or in general! Aside the 0w20 oils, even the 5w30 is more…. Thin! Just watter like liquid.
I am sure in my opinion that because of the orders to make us change cars, and kill all the old engines, and make us buy throw away cars under the green deal euro 5..6..7 crap, for all cars diesel and petrol, they played with the oil quality in general. I have talked to a lot of service shops, mechanics, spare parts dealers, and my conclusion, about all the car parts for older than 5-7 years, quality of them is gone. For all types of parts. Oil, rubber, metal casting, everything. Regardless the brand or money! Same ideea for ford parts, Mercedes parts, Jag and lr parts, bmw and vag parts…. All of them. They just tried to kill our cars.one clear example aside oil quality, for older mercs, a lot of complaints for engine mounts for Mercedes. S class, e class, gle, class…… from different shops, engine mounts gone in 3 to 6 mounts….. All lemforder!
So….. If you share my experience and logic, what did you do about the oil part of service? Higher viscosity code but keeping the compliance for the engine type? Or what?
And….. In my opinion, oil additives are not enough! And some of them are straight up bogus, that don't deliver the protection.
I know that some of you use oil additives, and take care of cars, but maybe you ware ok just because you drive the cars without any real exaggeration in sport behaviour! I have a lot of examples, people with money and care for their cars that has real problems regardless the money oil parts shops etc they used! Engine after engine after engine……. Different brands. And they were not all youngsters.… and crazy! So….. Most of problems sourced at the oil….. Viscosity!
I really in search for an oil viscosity for a 200.000km car. And for me, 5w30, regardless the “nano particles…. Protection…… synthetic.….farry magic marketing tools they sell”, just wont cut it any more! If they diluted the oil, for me the only answer is higher viscosity. Especially with over 200.000 km cars, that still don't need piston rings replaced! Especially because its verry hard for most shops to do any refurb on any engine... Like new quality again!
This Is a topic for all of you who really want to keep your cars.…ALIVE!
Ps: for merc as an example, I have found 10w40 motul liquimolly and even Mercedes oil to replace the 5w30 I currently use! But for Jag, especially becausehere are rare, and shops have less experience with them…. Don't know what oil was used and worked in real life !

 

The 3.0D angine used on JLR x351 XJ is very same as used very high volumes on PSA (now days Stellantis) Citroen and Peugeot vehicles. (C5, C6, 407, 607) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_AJD-V6/PSA_DT17. So if your area have service garage for those, they are familar with the engine. (biggest difference are that on PSA its front wheel driven)
The move for thinner oil is also because of improved manufacturing tolerances, but also coping less pumping effort. Worst desings have ecu driven solenoid on oil pump for bypassing circuitry when "not needed" in the name of less friction -> An hidden code for shortening engine life after warranty period? Anybody wonder would manufacturer do this? Nooooo. Like priter cardridges stopped printing when 30% ink was left for "securing printing quality", until EU comission put end of that.
I have 325.000 km on my 3.0D. Used only Castrol 5W-30 C1 oils in 10k km intervals. Sure there are wear in engine on these distances, but it still raise the oil pressure in tolerance time.

If some point of any engine life the services are negleted, no oil or wonder additive can fix it, but can soften the effects. Going for exsample 5W-40 oil will soften the cold start hulabaloo and on idle, but does not make a big effect on higher rews, because already with thinner 5W-30 olis the pre-set spring loaded by-pass valve on oil pump is (propably) open? I think.
As far i know there are no 5W-40 with C1 grade? Low SAPS oils are C1 and C4. Rest of C grade, C2, C3. C5, C6 and C7 are mid SAPs oils and all Ax / Bx:s are not recommeded on DPF diesel engines.
This is good to read:
By my experience the situtation os not so black and white that above article state, but it is fact that oil is not just oil. Using "cheap" oil from market, even with same viscosity or SAE level, can have totaly different film strenght, heat or pressure charachters etc. Propably its no matter on low tuned industrial generators or farm grade lawn mover, but on high compression, high rpm, forced induction engine it can be life or dead for low end bearings or wrist pin.
Seen many knocking sport car engines who owner agree that he have used cheap oils but changed them often, claiming that its better for the engine. Its not.

Yes: The automotive industry suffer tightened emission regulations. The engineering and materials have not been yet in the level to reach emissions and longetive in same time. Good exsamples of this are thin and light timing chains, very thin piston rings and oil bath timing belts. All disasters.
The thin piston rings for low friction caused very high emissions by burning a +1 litre of oil in 1000km. So it ended oppositive than planned. Many Audis suffered this. In beginning Audi say that its totally normal oil consumption up to 1.5l / 1000km. With 25t km service interval one vehicle eat 35 litres of oil just for topping + the 5 litre oil capasity = 40 litres for oil change interval. Not very green. And manufacturer claim that this is complete Ok. Nowdays VAG have been fixed all these engines. (as far i have been hear)

For weared engine i would use heavy duty truck DPF oil, like Mobil Delvac Modern 10W-40.
However: Its not classificated as low SAPS, so you might need to clean inlets and DPF time to time and not sure if its compatible with plastics used on 3.0D engine.
Be aware: Use of thick oil may result higher oil temp because of the increased pumping friction.

 

Great answer! I knew all that. But the problem is not only the viscosity…… it is also the real quality of the oil. Its not only wattery…… not thick, its also less lubricant! Like its just coloured water not greasing the parts. So…. Higher viscosity…. At least 5w40 or 10w30, depending on the season and ware, and even10w40 on a car like 200.000 km, that gets run in town, for me seems a necessity. I find extremely weird that, fresh oil, on different cars, newer and older, don't feel as smooth or as springy for more than 500-1000 km. Older and newer cars. High miles and low miles. Its like oil lives…… max 3000 km like on its full power. And I am not exaggerating. Even Les then 2000 km, and the car feels like there is not new oil. So…… I will not take any chances, in trusting the auto firms and I will try not only to reduce the oil change Intervals to maximum 8000 km pe change, but also adapt oil specs to season. I need thicker oil on cold start and extreme heat. 10 in winter and 40 in summer.
And sir, you are right about your experience, but after all I have seen about different quality in parts over here, and I am sure even in western Europe its the same, I will not trust ever car companies. Its not ‘80-2010.….those times are long gone. The just want us to buy a new car every 3 years. And they are really upset on us who keep alive 10-20 year cars, because we are proof they are doing something wrong now days. So…..
Keeping in theme with the topic, I well come sir vasara informed opinion, and I ask if there are others who would accept my counter intuitive opinion, against trusting the car companies with water oil products.
Please.… fellow Jag owners…… join the oil topic and give us opinions and experience!

 

Yeah, it's the emission regulations pushing OEMs to develop thinner oils to meet them via higher running efficiency. That combined with extended oil change intervals are killing many timing chains and tensioners as channels get clocked and things just wear too much. They try to fix lower protection via additives (generally Ax/Bx oils have better wear protection) than first C-oils. Personally, I'm running 5w40 or 5w50 A1/B4 + some additives once in a while.

Btw, in the discussion, there were mixed expressions regarding what oil viscosity numbers say. In the viscosity yo always have cold viscosity and normal operation temperature viscosity. The lower first number, the thinner cold viscosity. And the higher second number, the better the oil stands heat before hitting viscosity break point. So, 10wX start to be thick for Nordic winter cold starts and Xw30 is very thin for what ever Summer day or for a bit more powerful engine.

If you want only to protect the engine, you will not go for OEM recommended oil (it's to meet emissions and only tries to do the best also for protection). Minimum, set the viscosity right and take the hit on fuel consumption.

 

I don't give a.…… about fuel consumption)))) and…… I have to say….. Shut up Greta!))) you know what Greta I am talking about. And yes….. I really don't care about planet saving and other green deal crap. I just want my car to run ok and enjoy it! So…..
Every oil producer and car manufacturer and spare parts manufacturerthat tries to kill my car and my fun with my car is against me personally!
Exactly that s why….. I am asking all of you….. Who have same issue with the oil?…… what all of you did….. With examples.
Oil type, brand, code, and so on.
And even more of us here, that didn't knew about this ideas, gettyem and understand them.
So….Pacer, please tell us, what brand and what type of oil you use, trying to fix this oil problem?
And btw, you mentioned a1/b4 5w40….. What brand. And whats your dpf saying about that? Because I think the general idea is about c1 low ash oil…. For sdv6 jaguar

 

Hi Pacer:
There are some benefits to go with OEM oils. One quite important feature on modern engines with plastic parts inside, are that all plastics react with oil. When manufacturer desing the engine they comunicate with plastics part subcontractor and their preferred oil manufactur to have as much compatible addictives not britle plastic parts. (or at least slower rate) This is the reason why exsample MB have different oil recommendations (from same manufacturer) for same engine model, based on manufacturing date. (change of plastics used inside)
Extreme exsample is wet belt engines, where even 0.5dl wrong oil (even same ACEA etc specks) can cause catastrofic failure of total engine write off.

 

I agree, there can be additives to protect plastics or some other feature but haven't considered to be that worry. Some times ago it was known or stated that PAO oils (poly alpha olefin) were bad for certain type of plastics but I think those have been widely replaced with HC oils (hydro cracking) that are cheaper to produce.

I guess those Citroen(?) wet belts were breaking prematurely no matter oil you used. That was just a stupid idea. Might be wrong - Citroen itself is a great idea

I use Liqui Moly products (for what ever reason) and specifically 5w40 Synthoil High Tech. Adding their Ceratec once in a while. Have used their lifter additive as well but didn't get rid of cold engine diesel rattle I also don't have DPF, nor EGR anymore and that's why I can go for A3/B4 oils. Something I wouldn't do if the emission system were made better -> No clocked DPFs, no fuel dilution from regens or regen tryouts, no snapped cranks due to diluted oil that does not lubricate anymore.

Oils are probably most discussed item with automotive forums and it never gets ready. We tried again

 

Hi Pacer,
Most worry about plastic brittle on AJDV6 (DT17/20) engine are inlet manifolds. On timing chain engines the chain guides. Yes, i think so too that the PAO is mostly replaced by HC. At least oil manufacturers do not advertise PAO anymore so much. I havent used any oil addictives, but for injectors i use Lucas Upper Cylinder lubricant for 3 full tank in a row, twice a year. It have been great. Notable for idle sound and smoothnes after threatment.

I think originally the wet belt was from Fords desingboard, who made close co-desing with PSA (Citroen/Peugeot) and BMW Mini project. Not sure though. Then other manufacturers followed this stupid idea. Wetbelts are also used some VAG engines running oil pump! Ownwers don´t even realise that, because timing is by chain. Ohh dear...

Yes. Discussions about oils are endless.
Its funny because effect / km is quite low so you think whats the point use anything else than good one. (unless you need top up 1.5L / 100km)

This is now off topic:
In fact the emission control system on AJDV6 (DT17/20) is one of the best out there. But like all of them, it need to in working order not to mess up everything.
On AJDV6 (DT17/20) the ERG:s valve openigs are controlled by ECU running electric motors. As long as motors are running Ok they will close the valves by their torgue and keep them closed. Since exhaust gas circulation is only used for replacing the oxydent on situtation where engine is on lean mix, to avoid too hot combustion chamber temp, there is not much soot generated by lean burning process going thru EGR / inlet system. Many engines use springloaded vacuum operated EGR valves, where heat can turn spring weak and / or exhaust manifold pressure itself opens the valve by desing flaw, causing lot of soot rushing thru EGR:s and inlet manifold. This is not the case of AJDV6, because the ERG:s are mechanically closed.

I never cleaned my EGR:s or inlets and i have 325 t km on my 2010. By borescope view they are clean or have only very thin layer of soot on some areas.
Btw: When running without EGR:s i hope your fuel charts are modified so that the engine will not go to "lean" mode at all? Because with extra oxyden in "lean" mode your pistons will run much hotter and oil can burn underneath of them causing limbs what can block oil pump pickup.
(seen this happening twice on engines when EGR:s were removed, but charts have been untouched)

There are an trick for better DPF burning on all "mid vehicle DPF" platforms. (same engine used on PSA platform without issues of DPF burning, because they are "close" DPF platforms by DPF sitting right next to the engine) By this the oil dillution can be somewhat eliminated even in very cold climates.
Most of snapped cranks were issues of crank manufacturing. Ford have agreed that on 2.7L it was subcontractor issue and for 3.0L Ford start to made cranks themself and quality improved a lot. (but did not went complete away - Some say that if your crank last first belt interval, its good)

 

What is the purpose of vacuum driven axle that sits just on the port out from EGR cooler, where the recirculated gas exits and goes into intake? ECU driven motor in EGR valve vs. vacuum driven valve on EGR cooler outlet?

I don't know but hope so. The car is tuned before my ownership by a Finnish guy that has been playing with these cars. It might be though interesting to drop the oil pan and see the pick up and replace it. Can't remember now was it easy to drop or behind front frame or something...

 

Yes. These vavuum operated actuators top of EGR units are valves for exhaust cooler by-pass. During DPF burning the exhaust gas by-pass the heat exhanger, so gasses are not cooled to the coolant fluid for purpose of improve temperature of catalyst converter during DPF burning. The actual EGR valve motors are the funny looking "towers" front end of ERG unit.
(Btw: I took an liberty to sent you PM with link of x351 Service and Repair manual - Big, 8000pages, and extremely good)

Was it fellow in Tampere area? If yes, he is good and know these kind of things and you are safe. If i remember right you need to raise engine to get pan out? There are not much space under pan. I have been tempting to peek my current wear lof main and rod bearings, but i have been thinking that if i lose an turbo etc i will drop whole front subframe together with engine/tranny to get better access and peek under pan same go. Everything seems to be in shape, no noises yet, even odds are that on this mileage something go soon. (fregrent oilchanges pay now back for me) I have only need to change an boost pressure solenoid from engine bay (of course filters and belts/rollers) Even water pump is original.

 

Hello. What boost pressure solenoid.….and maybe a part number?
Thank you

 

Hi,
Lives on turbo boost diverter on front low of engine bay.
This part: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/267005654729
If you lose power, have MIL and you can hear turbo whistling this solenoid might be stuck open. Take a bar an tap boost diverter lightly and we all is good again until you accelerate so that the boost pressure need to released: The fault is this part.
Original had MoFoCo print on it, so propably found on millions of Mondeos etc...
Might be possible to change from top with long screwdriver, but i removed the diverter unit from underneath for clean and check the operational of the flap and solenoid seat.

 

Thanks! I've got one that has 3448 pages, maybe the same if you were not quite exact with that 8000 pages?

​​​​​​​Same guy.