Again, thanks for the reply.
I'll post the DTCs when I get a chance to plug in my iCarsoft scanner.
Since my last post above, I've been out for another drive and 'tested' some different lighting settings. And it does seem that the fault is triggered by the high beam. A simple flash brings it on.

I will ask the guy who made up the wiring connectors for those part numbers but he's working away from home for the next month so please bear with me.

 

Interesting because the only way I can get mine to throw a fault is by turning the car off with the hi beams on and then upon restart I get the AFS error. Which is easily cleared by switching the lights back to auto and restarting the car. The only time I got the error from using my flash to pass function is when I was still blowing fuses. I started with the factory 5 amp ones then went to 7.5 amp after the 5 amp ones blew. The a short time later I went to 10 amp because the 7.5 amp ones would blow after a short time of use.

I have had the mod for a couple of years now and other than that small issue it's perfect.

Maybe double check that all 4 of the fuses mentioned above have 10 amp fuses installed?

Thank you very much for the contact info for your harness guy. I think it's of enough value to everyone that you should post it to the list but understand your position.
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Thanks. Yes, I replaced all the relevant fuses with 10 amp.
xDave is right of course, certain conditions are causing an out-of-parameter current in that circuit which is triggering the fault. Maybe that wire needs to be heavier (or finer) to maintain the expected resistance?

 

If my schematic was followed then the main beam 'signal' from the old wiring will activate the coil on the added main beam relay and switch the signal to the LED driver from the original 2 (when ignition is off, used for the parking lamps so not really relevant for main beam which is not requested in this state) and 14 (AFS motor supply). I have a SB540 diode with 0.5Vf ish drop across it inline in that AFS circuit to limit the current. Maybe that is not enough? For others that used the external relay method - what diodes did you use?

 

OK, more info.
With the lights set to "off" or to "auto" and the lights are off: flash high beam and fault light is triggered.
With the lights set to on (either side or dipped): flash high beam - no fault.
High beam fully functional.
Additional strangeness: when flashing high beam, the RH high beam flickers . . . the first few times but then works fine. But OK when stalk in the high beam position.
Checked ALL fuses. OK.

 

That sounds like too much current is being drawn from original pin 14.
When the lights are are on, the current will be split between 14 (AFS) and 2 (sidelights).
Measure the resistance between both pin 14s on your adaptors and try increasing it bit a time until the warning goes away. (Both sides.) Once you have the resistance you need to add you can work out the power rating needed and splice it in at 14 source-side.

 

Thank you, Dave.
I'm not able to do what you suggest so I'll have to wait for my guy to return from his overseas working trip. Be about a month but of course I'll report back when it's done.

 

Where can I get this done?

 

Hi Mr Rivers. Can I suggest that you take 20 minutes and read through the whole thread. It will answer your question and give you an insight as to what is required.
Then if you want to go down the same route as I have, I will gladly send you the contact details of the guy in the UK who has made up the connection looms.

 

Just to update where I am with this: The electrical engineer who made up the looms believes the intermittent fault and occasional high beam flicker is down to wire resistances with differnet wires taking different currents depending on the state of the lights. So, for example, if the headlights are on and the high beams are flashed, there is no issue (usually). But if the lights are off and the high beam is flashed then the adaptive headlight system fault light is triggered and the high-beam LED flickers. But again, not every time.
Anyway, he is going to make up another pair of looms using different gauge wire for a couple of the links. But as we are still in the C-19 lockdown, it's going to be a couple of weeks more, I suspect, before I can see him to test them out.
Watch this space . . .

 

Thanks John, is the guy Sam that I read about with the plug and play?

 

No. I think he's the chap in London who can supply the modified LED headlights so that you can just swap them - plug-n-play.
I sourced the headlights myself and although there is an instruction within this thread on how to do the mod yourself, I didn't have the self-confidence to physically break into the (expensive) headlight units and so chose the connection loom option. A guy I knew from a previous mod then followed the instructions from this thread and made up the looms. This is the chap I can put you in touch with.

 

Is he in us?

 

No. UK

 

I'm in the US

 

He ships to the U.S.

 

OBC John thanks for the details about your wiring loom. I have been contacted by your guy asking for any details on my install.
I added what my car is doing to help him make modifications to the harness to eliminate the small errors I occasionally get.

Waiting to see what he comes up with.
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So when he ships it will it be plug and play?

 

Can I again suggest that you read this thread in full. The options you have are detailed herein.

 

Sorry, I did read it...I just don't understand that stuff