2016 LED headlamp retrofit to earlier cars (with full functionality)
Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 38
Likes: 19
From: California
So, forgive me for not having the exact lights. The link here is for the non-AFS and that was what I originally purchased but after talking to the seller I paid $300 more for the AFS lights. Also, I worked with a shop here in California that was able to install and attach to the correct fuse.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-pair-of-x....m46890.l49292
https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-pair-of-x....m46890.l49292
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 7
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plug and play
So, forgive me for not having the exact lights. The link here is for the non-AFS and that was what I originally purchased but after talking to the seller I paid $300 more for the AFS lights. Also, I worked with a shop here in California that was able to install and attach to the correct fuse.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-pair-of-x....m46890.l49292
https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-pair-of-x....m46890.l49292
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
plug and play
So, forgive me for not having the exact lights. The link here is for the non-AFS and that was what I originally purchased but after talking to the seller I paid $300 more for the AFS lights. Also, I worked with a shop here in California that was able to install and attach to the correct fuse.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-pair-of-x....m46890.l49292
https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-pair-of-x....m46890.l49292
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 135
Likes: 30
From: UK, West Midlands
John, you've gone and built yourself a police car!
(I'm making the assumption that the wires in the adaptor harness are a suitable gauge to not increase the resistance, and the diode between position 14 on the old connector prior to any taps is suitably rated.)
I would probe position 8 at the rear of either headlamp with either a scope or multi-meter to see if the voltage drops when that flashing occurs. Also check the resistance to ground from position 9.
I wonder if the JNC/BCM is cutting the AFS motor power or some property of the mosfet is slightly different between our cars causing yours to briefly trip the overpower protection on that circuit. It won't do it when the dipped beams are on because there are multiple paths.
Position 11 at the new headlamp is the main LED driver power. It is normally connected to the battery voltage at all times, with its operation controlled over the LIN on position 16 that is lacking on the earlier cars. As a test, you could try removing pin 11 from the new connector and instead connecting the headlamp position 11 directly to battery voltage and then testing the functions. If that works, you can add a relay across either 14 to GND (1/9/16) at the car connector side, or use any other switched source in place of 14. If it is easier you can snip the wire and use a solder sleeve to repair it if it doesn't make any difference.
(I'm making the assumption that the wires in the adaptor harness are a suitable gauge to not increase the resistance, and the diode between position 14 on the old connector prior to any taps is suitably rated.)
I would probe position 8 at the rear of either headlamp with either a scope or multi-meter to see if the voltage drops when that flashing occurs. Also check the resistance to ground from position 9.
I wonder if the JNC/BCM is cutting the AFS motor power or some property of the mosfet is slightly different between our cars causing yours to briefly trip the overpower protection on that circuit. It won't do it when the dipped beams are on because there are multiple paths.
Position 11 at the new headlamp is the main LED driver power. It is normally connected to the battery voltage at all times, with its operation controlled over the LIN on position 16 that is lacking on the earlier cars. As a test, you could try removing pin 11 from the new connector and instead connecting the headlamp position 11 directly to battery voltage and then testing the functions. If that works, you can add a relay across either 14 to GND (1/9/16) at the car connector side, or use any other switched source in place of 14. If it is easier you can snip the wire and use a solder sleeve to repair it if it doesn't make any difference.
Firstly, I have to report that Jez is currently quite poorly (not COVID related) but undergoing treatment and I hope I'll be pestering him again soon.
As I posted previously, we did cure the flickering lights by running a switched feed from the engine junction box directly to pins #8. And all was well . . . . well almost. Two things remain: on first morning start-up, if the light stalk is at "Auto" and the headlights come on, the AFS warning shows on the dash. Strangely, this does only happen on first start after which it doesn't happen. A quick ignition cycle clears the warning.
The second thing is that if the side lights are left on when the engine is stopped, the front lights will go off when the car systems shut down.
Today, following @xDaves suggestion in his post above, I ran a permanent live to pin #11. No change. Lights still function but with the same issue. (Don't know about the AFS warning).
Don't know where to go now. TBH, the lights are working 98% as they should but the OCD in me wants them perfect.
Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 38
Likes: 19
From: California
I don’t know how I missed this. I’ve had the lights on my car for about eight or nine months now and I’ve had zero issues with them. Everything is working as expected and very well.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 157
Likes: 20
From: philadelphia
Agreed, they are perfect I don't have the car anymore but had the nee lights on for about anyway they were perfect. I had mine retrofitted to be plug and play. Just piped them in and plugged in the wire. Full afs and all auto worked perfectly best upgrade you can do to these cars
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 135
Likes: 30
From: UK, West Midlands
Resurrecting this old thread for a quick update.
Firstly, I have to report that Jez is currently quite poorly (not COVID related) but undergoing treatment and I hope I'll be pestering him again soon.
As I posted previously, we did cure the flickering lights by running a switched feed from the engine junction box directly to pins #8. And all was well . . . . well almost. Two things remain: on first morning start-up, if the light stalk is at "Auto" and the headlights come on, the AFS warning shows on the dash. Strangely, this does only happen on first start after which it doesn't happen. A quick ignition cycle clears the warning.
The second thing is that if the side lights are left on when the engine is stopped, the front lights will go off when the car systems shut down.
Today, following @xDaves suggestion in his post above, I ran a permanent live to pin #11. No change. Lights still function but with the same issue. (Don't know about the AFS warning).
Don't know where to go now. TBH, the lights are working 98% as they should but the OCD in me wants them perfect.
Firstly, I have to report that Jez is currently quite poorly (not COVID related) but undergoing treatment and I hope I'll be pestering him again soon.
As I posted previously, we did cure the flickering lights by running a switched feed from the engine junction box directly to pins #8. And all was well . . . . well almost. Two things remain: on first morning start-up, if the light stalk is at "Auto" and the headlights come on, the AFS warning shows on the dash. Strangely, this does only happen on first start after which it doesn't happen. A quick ignition cycle clears the warning.
The second thing is that if the side lights are left on when the engine is stopped, the front lights will go off when the car systems shut down.
Today, following @xDaves suggestion in his post above, I ran a permanent live to pin #11. No change. Lights still function but with the same issue. (Don't know about the AFS warning).
Don't know where to go now. TBH, the lights are working 98% as they should but the OCD in me wants them perfect.
Despite what I said in my last post about the permanent live, I tried it again but this time physically swapping pins #8 and #11 on the 2016 connector and finding an unused but permanent live in the engine bay junction box. And hey presto!, all the previously mentioned issued have gone. Also, the remote headlight button on the key fob now works (it didn't previously).
I've modified xDave's wiring diagram and attached it here.
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Joined: May 2009
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From: home
Thank you for the update. My only error is if the car is started with the stalk in the high beam position causing an AFS error. Which is cleared by starting the car without the headlights on bright. I will make the wiring mode you posted and that should eliminate that error I hope.
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Lin Bus Question
You mention adding a module to make the car communicate with the newer headlights for say the cornering lights, but only went over opening the lens to change the internal wiring. Is it possible to add this module before the headlamp connector so that everything will work? If so, how and where to get the parts?
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Joined: Nov 2021
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I’m absolutely loving the look of the 2016 headlights on my 2011 XJ but find myself REALLY missing the cornering light function of my old headlights (yes new ones are AFS too) is there another way to get these to work without opening the lenses? Thanks
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 135
Likes: 30
From: UK, West Midlands
It's really not an issue for me.
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