XJ6 Series 3
7” H4 Headlamp Conversion with Automatic Daytime Running Lights, 5 ¾” H1 Inner Headlamp and Spade-type Headlamp Fusebox

This covers:
Article 1 – FUSEBOX - Replacement of underhood Headlamp Fusebox

Article 2 – FUSEBOX TO RELAYS - Headlamp and DRL Isolation relay installation

Article 3 – HEADLAMPS TO RELAYS (1)- Rewiring for new H4 Outer headlamps with DRL’s

Article 4 – HEADLAMPS TO RELAYS (2) - Rewiring Inner/Outer High and Outer Low beam headlamps

Article 5 – H4 OUTER HEADLAMP - 7” Outer Headlamp Conversion

Article 6 – H1 INNER HEADLAMP - Installing and Rewiring new Inner High beam headlamps

Article 7 – DRL - Wiring the new DRL’s

IMPORTANT
Disconnect Battery!
Wherever new wire terminations are made, solder and not crimping was used.

All connections are heat-shrink isolated.

All these modifications have been performed by the author and are fully functional and troublefree.


Page 2

Article 1
Replacement of underhood Headlamp Fusebox

Required Parts:
Spade type Fusebox.


Right-angle spade connectors.


Disconnect battery.
Note and record positions of all wires connected to the fusebox, tag each wire and remove (cut) from the box.

Remove existing fusebox mounting plate. This is necessary as if left in place, the new fusebox will foul the hood when it is closed.

Using right-angle connectors reconnect the new fusebox to the headlamp main relay. These connectors are required to minimise the “width” and also reduce the “height” of the finished wired fusebox. They are used at every location on the fusebox.

Article 2
Headlamp and DRL Isolation relay installation

The new fusebox only supplies a “trigger” voltage from the headlamp main relay to five “Bosch” style relays as follows:
a) LH outer Low beam
b) LH inner and outer High beam
c) RH outer Low beam
d) RH inner and outer High beam
e) LH and RH Daytime Running Lights

Parts required:
Dual High Low Headlight Relay Wiring Harness H4/9003 with High Heat Ceramic Plug


I sourced this “kit” (qty. 3). I used the relays and plugs. The wiring was removed from the relays/plugs and the brass connectors opened from each wire for re-use. This was done as I wanted 14G supply wiring, not the 16G/18G that is typically in these kits.
 
Page 3

The relays are standard 12V Bosch style 5 pin relays with Terminals as follows:
30 = Supply voltage,
87 = Delivery voltage to load – normally open,
85 = Ground,
86 = Trigger voltage
87a = Delivery voltage to load – normally closed – Not used except for the DRL relay

Mount each pair of relays (2XLH and2XRH). The relays are mounted on the upright support on each top side of the fan shroud. See Attached picture.

Fabricate simple folded metal brackets to support the relays. Mount the DRL relay next to the relays on the RH side.

From the RH Bulkhead battery Positive post, run a 12G feeder wire to Terminals 30 of each headlamp relay. Do not extend this feed to the DRL relay.

From terminals 85 on each headlamp relay – including the DRL relay, run separate 14G ground lines with suitable ground locations.

From Fuse #2 run a 14G wire to Terminal 86 of one relay on the RH side. This relay becomes the RH Low beam relay.

From Fuse #4 run a 14G wire to Terminal 86 of one relay on the LH side. This relay becomes the LH Low beam relay.

From Fuse #1 run a 14G wires to Terminal 86 of the other relay on the RH side. This relay becomes the inner and outer RH High beam relay.

From Fuse #3 run a 14G wires to Terminal 86 of the other relay on the LH side. This relay becomes the inner and outer LH High beam relay.


DRL Relay wiring

From the ignition coil white wire connection, run a 16G wire from the coil to Fuse # 5. From this fuse, run a 16G wire to terminal 30 of the DRL relay.
The “triggers” for the headlamp relays and the DRL isolation relay are now complete.

Article 3

Rewiring for new H4 7” Outer headlamps with DRL’s

Remove LH outer headlamp and make note of where the high/low wires go into the existing bulb connector. Cut all wires as close to the headlamp connector as possible.
I decided to use Blue wire for the High beams and Red for the Low beams. So I soldered Blue to blue/white and red to blue/red.
 
Page 4

Individually solder the new 14G wires and tightly shrink tube to each of the three separate cut headlamp wires. Liberally lubricate existing wires where they enter the plastic tube protecting the wires – I used a silicone based lubricant. Pull each headlamp wire in turn (white/blue and blue/red and black) from inside the inner fender where they exit to attach to the fusebox. Remember that an additional 16G wire will also need to be pulled for the DRL’s on each side.

I left at least 8 feet of each new wire dangling from the headlamp opening – just in case. You should have 4 wires hanging from the outer headlamp opening – 1 X high, 1 X low, 1 X DRL and 1 X ground.

Do the same on the RH side.

Article 4

Rewiring for Inner/Outer High and Outer Low High Beam headlamps

High Beams
Run the wire from the new LH Outer headlamp High beam along the inner fender wall to the LH relay bank. Attach this wire to Terminal 87 of the LH High beam relay. Also run the new LH Inner High beam wire to terminal 87 of the same relay. This relay will control both inner and outer LH High beams only.

Run the wire from the new RH Outer headlamp High beam along the inner fender wall to the RH relay bank. Attach this wire to Terminal 87 of the RH High beam relay. Also run the new RH Inner High beam wire to terminal 87 of the same relay. This relay will control both inner and outer RH High beams only.

Low Beams
For the LH Outer Low beam, run the 14G wire from the LH Low headlamp to Terminal 87 of the LH Low beam relay. Repeat this for the RH side, using Terminal 87 of the RH Low beam relay. These relays will control both the LH and the RH Low beams only.

Article 5

7” Outer Headlamp Conversion

Parts required (all obtained from Amazon):

2 X 7” H4 headlamps - HELLA 002395071 7" H4 Type High/Low Beam Headlamp with Position Lamp.


7” adjustable Mount
2 X Xprite 7" Inch Chrome Headlight Ring Mounting Bracket for Harley Davidson Headlight Mount.


Replacement 7” trim ring – locally sourced.
Replacement 7” headlamp buckets – (Mini, Triumph, MGB, etc.) locally sourced.

Page 5

Remove existing 5 ¾” Outer bucket.
I used a bench grinder, files and tin snips for all metal modifications.
Mark 12 o’clock position on bucket mounting plate and remove plate.
The new mount will need to be trimmed to match the diameter of the original plate as it is too wide to fit inside the fender nacelle. I reduced it by over ½” in total.

The 7” buckets will have a bent rim that will need to be flattened so that the new mount sits flat and then trimmed to fit into the nacelle.

Disassemble the new headlight mount. Using the original bucket mounting plate as a template, align the 12 o’clock mark with the top of the new bracket. Three cut-outs will need to be made in the original plate for the adjusting ears of the new mount. Make them about ¼” larger all round than required for a tight fit, to allow for some adjustments.

Transfer the 4 mounting hole positions from the original plate to the new mounts and drill a ¼” holes in the mounts. The extra hole clearance is again for some adjustability.

Three cut-outs will also be needed in the buckets as mentioned above, as will parts of the fender nacelle where the original mounting plates sit. The buckets also need four aligning holes (1/4”) as the original mounting plate screws will first pass thru the new chrome mount, then the buckets, then the original mount plate and finally attach to the captive nuts in the nacelles.
Reassemble the new mounts. You will also need to trim the new headlamp retaining trim ring mounting lugs to ensure clearance.

Assemble the parts as follows.

Insert the original plates into the nacelles. Check fit the new mounts to ensure everything aligns – cut-outs and mounting holes - and has some clearance. Remove the new mounts, align the 7” buckets and then insert the new chrome mount. It will be a very close fit and some extra trimming may be necessary, but they will all go together and fit.

Take off the part of the mount that is held on with the 3 adjuster screws, and then remove the buckets. Use new grommets and thread all 4 wires into the bucket. The extra wire will supply the DRL bulb.

Pig-tail the black ground wire as the DRL bulb needs its own ground. Attach a new H4 connector ensuring the correct high and low wires go to the correct connector positions as previously noted.

Attach the dedicated DRL power and ground wires.
Put everything back together and ensure the adjusting ring ears do not foul the nacelle to permit proper adjustment.

Article 6

Installing and Rewiring new Inner High beam headlamps

Required parts:
2 X H1 style bulbs of your choice.
2 X HELLA H11425011 135mm H1 Single High Beam Halogen Conversion Headlamp.


Page 6

Remove the inner headlamps. Cut wires and replace with 14G wire. As these are only High beam units, my wires were blue and black (ground).
As stated above, run the new LH Inner headlamp High beam wire to the LH relay bank. Attach this wire to Terminal 87 of the LH High beam relay. This relay will control both inner and outer LH High beams only.

Do the same for the RH side lamps but connect to Terminal 87 of the RH relay. This relay will control both inner and outer RH High beams only.

Article 7

Wiring the new DRL’s

Run both the LH and the RH DRL wires from the outer headlamps to Terminal 87a (normally closed) of the DRL Isolation Relay. This allows the DRL’s to be energized whenever the ignition is on or the engine is running.

DRL deactivation with headlamps “ON”

If (as I did) you wish to have the DRL’s turn off whenever the headlights – either High or Low are switched on, do the following:

Required parts:
2 X Diodes.
NTE Electronics 1N4001 Standard Recovery Rectifier Diode, General Purpose, Single, 1.0 A, 50V.


From the Headlamp Main relay, run a short line of 16G wire from the Blue/White terminal and another from the Blue/Red terminal. These will be the “trigger” wires for the DRL relay.

Decide where the isolating Diodes are to be located. I positioned mine adjacent to the new fusebox. Cut the wires to length and slip on a length of heat-shrink tubing. Solder one diode to each of the two wires ensuring that current can only flow from the fusebox to the relay. Apply and shrink the tubing to cover each solder joint and each actual diode separately.

Solder the other leads of both diodes together. Apply another length of heat-shrink tubing over a separate 16G wire and solder this wire to the connected Diodes. Cover and seal with Heat-shrink tubing.

Run this 16G wire to Terminal 86 of the DRL Relay.
The diodes prevent current flowing between the Blue/White or Blue/Red Terminals at the Headlamp Main relay but allow DRL relay activation whenever High or Low beams are selected, resulting in the DRL’s switching Off.