2016 LED headlamp retrofit to earlier cars (with full functionality)
#81
02-07-2018, 08:25 PM
No wires are ran from fuse boxes! The only thing that was generated are the actual harnesses themselves shown in the pictures above. You will have to swap out 2 fuses, for fuses with larger amperages. You'll have to change out (2) 5A for 10As. Other than that, you won't do anything else in the fuse box.
#82
02-07-2018, 08:49 PM
Just a comment?
I just used the diagram Xdave posted. You don't need to run any other wires.
That's the best part it's just a harness and there are no other mods needed to the car. Just plug the harness in-between the car and the new LED headlights.
This was important to me.
A update on the headlights. Working great but I have twice now got the adaptive headlight error on the dash when starting. Just a shutdown and restart and all was well.
Any suggestion?
.
.
.
I just used the diagram Xdave posted. You don't need to run any other wires.
That's the best part it's just a harness and there are no other mods needed to the car. Just plug the harness in-between the car and the new LED headlights.
This was important to me.
A update on the headlights. Working great but I have twice now got the adaptive headlight error on the dash when starting. Just a shutdown and restart and all was well.
Any suggestion?
.
.
.
The 7.5A wasn't enough. Once I swapped out both fuses, I can start my car either way without warning errors. So right now, my left headlight is on a 10A fuse and 7.5A on the right. Everything is flawless. I haven't seen an error light in almost a year. My guess is the fuse amperages.
#83
02-08-2018, 11:14 AM
1) Turn on your headlamps manually and check to see if both rear light clusters are on. If one side is not then you have blown the fuse for that side's parking lamps.
2) Is the lighting stalk in the full beam position on starting?
#84
02-08-2018, 01:38 PM
Veteran Member
Thanks again Xdave!!
Well I had 2 blown fuses. Again #49 and #50 the headlight motors in the fuse box behind the rear seat. After replacing both fuses I did what you wanted.
1. Yes both rear clusters are on BUT the headlights will NOT turn on with the car off! Not sure why? The J blades are on.
2. Yes the error returns if the car is started with the headlights on brights. If the lights are set to normal no errors on the dash at all. I can clear the adaptive headlight error by switching the head lights to normal and restarting the car.
So I blew 2 fuses and the headlights do not come on if the car is off.
Note; I have replaced Fuse #24 and #25 with 10A fuses and both check good.
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.
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Well I had 2 blown fuses. Again #49 and #50 the headlight motors in the fuse box behind the rear seat. After replacing both fuses I did what you wanted.
1. Yes both rear clusters are on BUT the headlights will NOT turn on with the car off! Not sure why? The J blades are on.
2. Yes the error returns if the car is started with the headlights on brights. If the lights are set to normal no errors on the dash at all. I can clear the adaptive headlight error by switching the head lights to normal and restarting the car.
So I blew 2 fuses and the headlights do not come on if the car is off.
Note; I have replaced Fuse #24 and #25 with 10A fuses and both check good.
.
.
.
Last edited by clubairth1; 02-08-2018 at 01:45 PM.
#85
02-08-2018, 05:33 PM
1. Yes both rear clusters are on BUT the headlights will NOT turn on with the car off! Not sure why? The J blades are on.
2. Yes the error returns if the car is started with the headlights on brights. If the lights are set to normal no errors on the dash at all. I can clear the adaptive headlight error by switching the head lights to normal and restarting the car.
2. Yes the error returns if the car is started with the headlights on brights. If the lights are set to normal no errors on the dash at all. I can clear the adaptive headlight error by switching the head lights to normal and restarting the car.
No 2 is what I observed on mine when I first fitted the LED lamps using method 1. I eventually noticed that the LH rear cluster was not coming on which is when I replaced the fuse for that side's parking lamps and since then I can start the car with the full beam switch active without triggering the temporary AFS error. I did not make any other changes which is why I asked you to check your fuses as well. I thought that the reason I was getting that error was because the LH parking lamp fuse was blown/open circuit so the LED drivers were drawing all their current from the LH AFS motor which was being detected as a fault. (The reason we switch the parking lamp supply in for the drivers when the headlamps are active is so they can share the current load.)
Unfortunately it sounds like even with the parking lamp fuses being good you are still seeing the full beam at-start AFS error, so there goes that theory!
#86
02-08-2018, 07:51 PM
Veteran Member
#87
02-08-2018, 09:21 PM
With the ignition in positon 2, the headlights are on, along with the rear light clusters. The highbeams can also be activated.
While the car is off, and with the lighting switch in highbeam mode, my car starts without the adaptive lighting error.
I hope this helps. If there's something else you need me to try, let me know.
#88
02-18-2018, 09:21 AM
Veteran Member
#89
02-18-2018, 01:54 PM
I know getting the AFS error upon start-up with the highbeams on is not a big deal, but one last thing to try just out curiosity and see what you get. Leave the F25 fuse at 10A, but drop F24 to 7.5A. Then try starting your car with the highbeams on and see if you still get the error. I suggest this becuase we both did the same mod, except I went with 10A and 7.5A, vice two 10A. It may not make a difference, but it's part of the process of eliminaion.
#90
02-21-2018, 11:05 AM
Veteran Member
#91
03-09-2018, 02:32 PM
Would like to do upgrade but I have a question
Hello
Jay here. I would like to do the headlight upgrade, but I am confused on a couple of things. Are you guys creating an actual harness that goes in between the car and the lights, or are you modifying the car side harness only? Is the OEM connector in the 2014 the same OEM connector for the 2017 headlights? Are they plug, no play, but the connectors are the same?
Also, is anyone making these harnesses for a cost as of yet?
Jay here. I would like to do the headlight upgrade, but I am confused on a couple of things. Are you guys creating an actual harness that goes in between the car and the lights, or are you modifying the car side harness only? Is the OEM connector in the 2014 the same OEM connector for the 2017 headlights? Are they plug, no play, but the connectors are the same?
Also, is anyone making these harnesses for a cost as of yet?
#92
03-09-2018, 03:22 PM
Hello
Jay here. I would like to do the headlight upgrade, but I am confused on a couple of things. Are you guys creating an actual harness that goes in between the car and the lights, or are you modifying the car side harness only? Is the OEM connector in the 2014 the same OEM connector for the 2017 headlights? Are they plug, no play, but the connectors are the same?
Also, is anyone making these harnesses for a cost as of yet?
Jay here. I would like to do the headlight upgrade, but I am confused on a couple of things. Are you guys creating an actual harness that goes in between the car and the lights, or are you modifying the car side harness only? Is the OEM connector in the 2014 the same OEM connector for the 2017 headlights? Are they plug, no play, but the connectors are the same?
Also, is anyone making these harnesses for a cost as of yet?
#94
03-30-2018, 08:13 AM
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[QUOTE = Serlock; 1663787] Итак, вот еще одно обращение из Литвы. Мой электрик использовал схему метода 2. Но у моего автомобиля нет AFS, поэтому ему пришлось делать дополнительную проводку от блока предохранителей. Так что все хорошо, но мне нужно исправить 2 проблемы. Когда автомобиль заперт, и я хочу его разблокировать, - сидмаркеры под руководством не работают, потому что они работают только при включенном зажигании автомобилей. Поэтому я должен найти источник +, который включен, когда im только разблокирует автомобиль. Потому что 2015 + автомобили имеют это, и prefacelift автомобили не имеют его. Есть идеи? 2-е, это то, что DRL всегда работают в затемненном режиме. В гараже это выглядит хорошо, но днем его путь слишком тускнеет. Необходимо быть более ярким. Как-то его не полностью. Любые комментарии приветствуются. [/ QUOTE]
Hello! Was it possible to solve the problem with dim glow J-blades? I have the same problem...
Hello! Was it possible to solve the problem with dim glow J-blades? I have the same problem...
#95
04-04-2018, 02:00 PM
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So, here is another conversion from lithuania. My electrician used the method 2 diagram. But my car doesnt have AFS originally so he had to do extra wiring from fuse box. So all is good, but i need to fix 2 issues. When the car is locked and i want to unlock it - led sidemarkers dont work, because they only work when cars ignition is on. So i must find a source of + which is on when im only unlocking the car. Because 2015+ cars has this, and prefacelift cars doesnt have it. Any ideas? 2 nd this is thar DRL's are always working in a dimmed mode. In the garage it looks fine, but in the daytime its way too dimmed. Need to be more bright. Somehow its not fully on. Any comments welcome.
#96
04-05-2018, 01:27 AM
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Parts list
You will need the LH and RH headlamps for your market (they are not compatible). The best place is eBay when people buy them then realise they are not plug-and-play without some effort and sell them on cheap. I picked up mine brand new in original packaging for £300 each.
UK have their own spec, USA have their own spec, but I am unsure about other regions. LHD and RHD are different too.
For
Method 1 - Internal modifications
1.5mm CSA high-temperature oil-resistant wire, e.g. Lapp Lapp 51001. Plus a suitable adhesive-lined heatshrink.
Non-latching 12V 15A automotive relay, e.g. Panasonic JSM1-12V-5. You need 3 per side.
Hertalan EPDM rubber KS96 adhesive sealant (1 tube will do both units and spare).
2-part rapid set epoxy.
SB540 40V 5A diodes (2 per side).
Connector kits (available from various LR specialists, or online from Simtek http://www.simtekuk.co.uk):
CON-266 is the 16 way car-side connector with 12 wires connected
CON-144 is the same connector with 16 pins and grommets for self-termination
CON-466 is the 16 way headlamp-side connector as a kit with 16 pins and grommets.
You will need 1xCON-466 and either 1xCON-266 (if you want pigtails) or 1xCON-144 if you will terminate yourself. I recommend the pigtails unless you have appropriate crimpers.
Method 2 - External adapter harness
(i.e. if you don’t want the cornering lamps and want the easier option of an external adapter harness.)
1.5mm CSA high-temperature oil-resistant wire, e.g. Lapp Lapp 51001. Plus a suitable adhesive-lined heatshrink.
Non-latching 12V 15A automotive relay and enclosure. You need 3 per side. You could use Simtek p/n REL-905 mini relays and their REL-07U 7 way mini relay box to house everything neatly.
SB540 40V 5A diodes (2 per side).
Connector kits (again using Simtek p/ns) - you will need 2xCON-466 and either 3xCON-266 (if you want pigtails) or 2xCON-144 if you will terminate yourself. The reason for the extra CON-266 is because it only comes with 12 wires and you will need 16 per side.
You will need the LH and RH headlamps for your market (they are not compatible). The best place is eBay when people buy them then realise they are not plug-and-play without some effort and sell them on cheap. I picked up mine brand new in original packaging for £300 each.
UK have their own spec, USA have their own spec, but I am unsure about other regions. LHD and RHD are different too.
For
Method 1 - Internal modifications
1.5mm CSA high-temperature oil-resistant wire, e.g. Lapp Lapp 51001. Plus a suitable adhesive-lined heatshrink.
Non-latching 12V 15A automotive relay, e.g. Panasonic JSM1-12V-5. You need 3 per side.
Hertalan EPDM rubber KS96 adhesive sealant (1 tube will do both units and spare).
2-part rapid set epoxy.
SB540 40V 5A diodes (2 per side).
Connector kits (available from various LR specialists, or online from Simtek http://www.simtekuk.co.uk):
CON-266 is the 16 way car-side connector with 12 wires connected
CON-144 is the same connector with 16 pins and grommets for self-termination
CON-466 is the 16 way headlamp-side connector as a kit with 16 pins and grommets.
You will need 1xCON-466 and either 1xCON-266 (if you want pigtails) or 1xCON-144 if you will terminate yourself. I recommend the pigtails unless you have appropriate crimpers.
Method 2 - External adapter harness
(i.e. if you don’t want the cornering lamps and want the easier option of an external adapter harness.)
1.5mm CSA high-temperature oil-resistant wire, e.g. Lapp Lapp 51001. Plus a suitable adhesive-lined heatshrink.
Non-latching 12V 15A automotive relay and enclosure. You need 3 per side. You could use Simtek p/n REL-905 mini relays and their REL-07U 7 way mini relay box to house everything neatly.
SB540 40V 5A diodes (2 per side).
Connector kits (again using Simtek p/ns) - you will need 2xCON-466 and either 3xCON-266 (if you want pigtails) or 2xCON-144 if you will terminate yourself. The reason for the extra CON-266 is because it only comes with 12 wires and you will need 16 per side.
#97
04-09-2018, 05:42 PM
Running day lights not working
#98
04-10-2018, 02:22 AM
Hi Yasir,
Did you use the same wiring/connection diagram as shown in this thread?
If so please turn your ignition on, the light stalk to the first position (side/parking lamps only) and check to see if the rear right red side lamp is on or off.
If that is also not working (as well as the rear headlamp on that side, although brake lights would still work) then you have blown the passenger side parking lamp fuse. Your vehicle owners manual will tell you exactly which fuse that is, in the fuse box behind the rear seat back.
Your symptom matches that scenario.
Did you use the same wiring/connection diagram as shown in this thread?
If so please turn your ignition on, the light stalk to the first position (side/parking lamps only) and check to see if the rear right red side lamp is on or off.
If that is also not working (as well as the rear headlamp on that side, although brake lights would still work) then you have blown the passenger side parking lamp fuse. Your vehicle owners manual will tell you exactly which fuse that is, in the fuse box behind the rear seat back.
Your symptom matches that scenario.
#99
04-10-2018, 05:58 AM
hi
xdave thanks for your quick reply.
only thing is I paid someone to do the conversion for me and I took my car to jaguar yesterday and they investigated and told me that I need a new headlight because the running day light is not working and they can't just replace the running day light. the only option they gave me replacing the whole unit (£2000) which is ridiculous.
second thing when you do conversion is on the car or on the lights?
does any one know some one in uk who can check that headlight is fine or not or something wrong with the cables.(not trying to rip us off) because the guy who did the conversion he said I need conversion again if I get the new lights.
how can check that where the problem is.
because the led suppose to be working more then 6 months.
ill appreciate it if someone make a conversion video and share that would help people like me to do the Jobe and not to get ripped off by these conversion people.
Xdave the thing you mentioned I'm gonna try it when I get my car back from jaguar today.
looking forward for your reply.
many thanks
xdave thanks for your quick reply.
only thing is I paid someone to do the conversion for me and I took my car to jaguar yesterday and they investigated and told me that I need a new headlight because the running day light is not working and they can't just replace the running day light. the only option they gave me replacing the whole unit (£2000) which is ridiculous.
second thing when you do conversion is on the car or on the lights?
does any one know some one in uk who can check that headlight is fine or not or something wrong with the cables.(not trying to rip us off) because the guy who did the conversion he said I need conversion again if I get the new lights.
how can check that where the problem is.
because the led suppose to be working more then 6 months.
ill appreciate it if someone make a conversion video and share that would help people like me to do the Jobe and not to get ripped off by these conversion people.
Xdave the thing you mentioned I'm gonna try it when I get my car back from jaguar today.
looking forward for your reply.
many thanks
#100
04-10-2018, 06:51 AM
You would need to take the bumper off to remove the headlamps, but you can simply switch them over to test if the headlamp itself is faulty or if it is car-side. The connectors each side are not-handed. Note that the car will shut down certain circuits if it believes there is a fault, so connect both the wrong way round before testing.
It sounds like you bought a headlamp that had been converted internally if it was modified. There are a few people offering that service, but none appear to share how they have done it so I can't be sure if they are utilising the side lamps circuit to initially power the J blade driver as with my instructions in this thread. You would need to ask the person who converted them how they are powering the drivers.
There are two LED drivers on the LED headlamps. The big one underneath does the two main projectors and the smaller one at the top on the rear does the J blades (both the white LEDs and the amber indicator LEDs. Does the indicator work on that side and just not the white LEDs? If so that suggests a driver failure, LED failure, or something wrong with the way they have been modified. You cannot replace that driver without dismantling the entire headlamp because the light tubes (J blades) are held to it with clamps that will break.
Do the J blades come on when the headlamps are switched to manual position?
It sounds like you bought a headlamp that had been converted internally if it was modified. There are a few people offering that service, but none appear to share how they have done it so I can't be sure if they are utilising the side lamps circuit to initially power the J blade driver as with my instructions in this thread. You would need to ask the person who converted them how they are powering the drivers.
There are two LED drivers on the LED headlamps. The big one underneath does the two main projectors and the smaller one at the top on the rear does the J blades (both the white LEDs and the amber indicator LEDs. Does the indicator work on that side and just not the white LEDs? If so that suggests a driver failure, LED failure, or something wrong with the way they have been modified. You cannot replace that driver without dismantling the entire headlamp because the light tubes (J blades) are held to it with clamps that will break.
Do the J blades come on when the headlamps are switched to manual position?